Diverse World Shirt Styles

JUNE – 2024 30 MINS READ
Shirts are a fundamental item in fashion, and their designs and styles vary greatly depending on the country and culture. Though they may look similar, each country has unique characteristics shaped by its cultural background. This article explores the distinctive features of shirt designs from various countries and examines how each style has evolved over time.The traditional and culturally reflective shirts of the UK, the elegant and sophisticated shirts of France, the artisan-crafted and uniquely styled shirts of Italy (especially Naples), and the casual and practical shirts of the USA each offer a unique charm. Let’s delve into the captivating world of shirt designs from these diverse regions.
What Is the Most Basic Shirt ? 
When considering the most basic shirt, what comes to mind? Is it the classic regular collar shirt or perhaps the modern semi-wide collar shirt? For cuffs, the single cuff (barrel cuff) is most common, but for formal occasions, the French cuff (double cuff) may be chosen. And what about pockets? If convenience is a priority, a shirt with pockets might be ideal, but if a clean, simple look is desired, a pocketless design could be preferable. Here, we will explore the essential features of a basic shirt in detail.


The most basic style is the “regular collar” (standard collar). This collar has a moderate spread and is suitable for both formal and casual settings. The angle of a regular collar is typically around 75–90 degrees. The length of the collar points on a regular collar is usually around 2.75–3.25 inch (6.99–8.26 cm).
The button-down collar is a very popular style, but due to its high level of casualness, it is technically outside the realm of typical dress shirts. However, its versatility has made it increasingly common in recent years.
But, in recent years, the semi-wide collar has become more common. After the peak of the horizontal (horizontal) collar trend in classic Italian fashion, it seems that the semi-wide collar, which falls between the regular collar and the wide or horizontal collar, has become more popular (the angle of a semi-wide collar is approximately 100–120 degrees).
Collar Band
The height of the collar band (collar stand) is typically about 1–1.5 inch (2.54–3.81 cm). 
Typically, there are 7 buttons on the placket. The design generally features buttons all the way down to the hem. The diameter of the buttons is usually around 0.39–0.47 inch (10–12 mm), and the thickness is approximately 0.06–0.08 inch (1.5–2 mm). As for the material, mother-of-pearl buttons are considered high-end, but plastic or resin buttons are commonly used.
The placket refers to the central front part of a shirt where the buttons and buttonholes are located. The design of this part significantly influences the style and function of the shirt. The most common style is the placket front, which features reinforced stitching around the buttonholes, providing a sturdy appearance to the front of the shirt. This type of placket is used in both business and casual shirts and is known for its durability. On the other hand, there are styles like the French front and the concealed placket. The French front lacks a visible placket, resulting in a cleaner, more minimal look. The concealed placket covers the buttons, offering a simple and sophisticated appearance. Among these different placket designs, the placket front is generally the most preferred.
Generally, dress shirts do not feature pockets. However, there is a tendency to include pockets in more casual styles and in warmer climates. A shirt with a pocket is practical and convenient for holding pens or small items. On the other hand, in formal settings, pocketless shirts are preferred. Pocketless shirts offer a cleaner and simpler appearance, emphasizing a more formal silhouette.
The most common cuff style is the “single cuff” (barrel cuff). This simple design is secured with one or two buttons. In formal settings, the “French cuff” (double cuff) is often used. French cuffs are designed to be fastened with cufflinks. The ideal length of the cuff is typically about 2.5–3 inch (6.35–7.62 cm) when folded. However, French cuffs are not common. Consider choosing adjustable cuffs, which have two buttons to adjust the sleeve length.
The shirt yoke is the fabric piece that runs across the shoulders and upper back, greatly influencing the fit and silhouette of the shirt. The most basic yoke design is the “single yoke,” made from one piece of fabric, providing a smooth appearance. For a better fit, a “split yoke” is used. Split yokes are a feature of high-end shirts but are not common in everyday designs. Although curved yokes fit the human body better, they are more difficult to sew, so straight yokes are more commonly used. 
Back Pleats
Many high-end dress shirts do not have back pleats. However, it is common to have side pleats (two pleats under the yoke) or a box pleat (centered on the back, also known as a center box pleat) to increase the range of motion in the back. Additionally, to emphasize a waist shape, two darts can be added to the lower back.
The hem of a shirt is an important element that greatly influences the design and style of the shirt. Traditional dress shirt hems are longer in the front and back to ensure they stay tucked into the pants. Additionally, the sides are shorter and curved to make tucking in easier. In contrast, casual shirt hems are generally shorter and designed with a straight, horizontal line, making them suitable for wearing untucked. 
For shirts and blouses, a narrow hem of about 0.25-0.5 inch (6-13 mm) is common. This provides a clean finish without adding bulk.
The hem of a shirt may also have gussets (small pieces of fabric) sewn in for reinforcement, which enhances durability. However, with modern sewing techniques, gussets are no longer necessary and have become more of a design feature.
◾️ 襟
◾️ 台襟
◾️ ボタン


◾️ 前たて
◾️ ポケット
◾️ カフス
最も一般的なカフスタイルは「シングルカフ(バレルカフ)」です。このシンプルなデザインは、1つまたは2つのボタンで留められます。フォーマルな場面では「フレンチカフ(ダブルカフ)」がよく使われます。フレンチカフはカフリンクスで留めるようにデザインされています。理想的なカフの長さは、折り返した状態で約2.5–3インチ(6.35–7.62 cm)です。しかしながら、フレンチカフは一般的ではありません。アジャスタブルカフ(ボタンが二つ付いていて袖を調整できるカフ)を選びましょう。 
◾️ プリーツ
◾️ 裾
Next, we will highlight the distinctive features of shirt designs from different countries. By understanding the unique styles and characteristics of each, you’ll gain new insights into shirt selection, helping you discover the ideal shirt style for you. Enjoy the diverse world of fashion as you find your perfect shirt.


Characteristics of Each Country
Fashion has evolved over time, shaped by the cultures, histories, and influences of various countries. This section explores the historical flow of fashion and the influences behind it. British fashion, credited with creating the prototype of modern menswear, was heavily influenced by French royalty for many years. Particularly after the Industrial Revolution, Britain disseminated much of its culture worldwide. Even after the War of Independence, Britain’s influence on America remained strong. By the late 19th century, the button-down collar, which began as a British sports shirt, had become established in America and later gained popularity in Japan during the economic boom of the post-war period as part of the Ivy League trend. Furthermore, British bespoke tailoring significantly influenced Italian fashion, known as Classico Italia. Silk, which traveled from ancient China to Europe via the Silk Road, became a luxurious material beloved by many nobles and royalty. Japonism, which began in the Art Nouveau period, saw the unique patterns and aesthetics of Japan being integrated into Western fashion. Through these historical connections, we can see how fashion has evolved across borders. 
UK Shirts
In the early 19th century, “Beau Brummell” emerged, advocating a simple and elegant men’s fashion that is considered the prototype of the modern suit. His influence significantly contributed to the establishment of the gentry style. The Industrial Revolution, spanning from the late 18th century to the early 19th century, brought significant transformations to the British fashion industry. The increase in cotton imports from India made high-quality fabrics available at affordable prices, allowing fashion to become accessible to a broader audience. Through the Industrial Revolution, Britain greatly influenced America, and even after the War of Independence, British styles continued to permeate American culture and spread worldwide.During the Victorian era (1837-1901), the advancements of the Industrial Revolution were reflected in fashion, with mechanized production of fabrics and garments. Fashion became more intricate and ornate, with corsets and crinolines (expansive skirts) becoming popular among women. Men’s fashion saw the widespread adoption of three-piece suits and silk hats. The fashion of the Victorian era further solidified Britain’s influence globally. In the 19th century, Britain was known as “the empire on which the sun never sets,” and its vast colonial empire exerted a profound impact worldwide. Much of today’s gentlemen’s fashion is rooted in the British gentry’s philosophy, which has been intricately linked to fashion.
Characteristics of British Brands 
British shirts, which originated from bespoke tailoring, are characterized by a structured design similar to suits. The most notable examples of this can be seen in the collars and cuffs. Thick collars, made with floating interlinings without the use of adhesives, create a firm neckline. Similarly, the sleeves are sewn with floating interlinings without adhesives, unlike the softer feel of Italian shirts. Additionally, triple or double barrel cuffs are elegant and commonly used in British shirts (it is said that three buttons are more elegant than two). Apart from these, there are turn-back cuffs known as cocktail cuffs, which became famous as the cuffs of James Bond’s shirts.

Regarding the fabric, slightly stiffer materials tend to be preferred, possibly due to the humid weather, but in England, the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, delicate fabrics could also be woven. However, the highest quality fabrics produced by Thomas Mason in Lancashire and the renowned David & John Anderson in Scotland have already come under Italian ownership, and unfortunately, there are no longer any large-scale factories in the UK weaving shirt fabrics. Furthermore, the number of British shirt manufacturers producing ready-made shirts has significantly decreased, and while many brands proudly display “London” on their labels, production has shifted to Asia. Nevertheless, there are still a few historical brands that survive as bespoke makers on Jermyn Street in London.

・Structured collars and cuffs using floating interlinings
・Semi-wide to wide collars
・Tough yet delicate fabrics
・Cuffs with two or three buttons
・Placket front (31-32mm)
・Luxury brands feature split yoke
・Nearly horizontal yoke
・Bengal stripes (known in Japanese as London stripes)

19世紀初頭には”ボー・ブランメル”が登場し、現代のスーツの原型ともいえるシンプルでエレガントな男性ファッションを提唱しました。彼の影響はジェントリースタイルの確立に大きく貢献しました。18世紀後半から19世紀初頭にかけての産業革命は、イギリスのファッション産業に大きな変革をもたらしました。特にインドからのコットン輸入が増加し、手頃な価格で高品質な布地が入手可能になったことで、ファッションはより多くの人々に普及しました。産業革命を通じて、イギリスはアメリカにも多大な影響を与え、独立戦争後もイギリスのスタイルはアメリカに浸透し続け、世界中に広がっていきました。ビクトリア朝時代(1837年 – 1901年)には、産業革命の成果がファッションにも反映され、布地の生産や衣服の製造が機械化されました。ファッションはより複雑で華やかになり、コルセットやクリノリン(広がりのあるスカート)が女性の間で流行しました。男性のファッションは、スリーピーススーツやシルクハットが一般的となり、ビクトリア朝時代のファッションはイギリスの影響力をさらに強める要因となりました。19世紀にはイギリスは「太陽が沈まない国」と呼ばれ、その広大な植民地帝国が世界中に影響を与えました。現在の紳士のファッションの多くは、イギリスのジェントリーという思想を根元にファッションに結びつけられます。 



Turnbull & Asser is a luxury shirt brand with a history of over 130 years, holding a Royal Warrant from the British Royal Family. Founded in 1885 by Reginald Turnbull and Ernest Asser, the brand has been cherished by the British Royal Family and celebrities worldwide. From the beginning, Turnbull & Asser has provided gentlemen’s clothing for the upper class, and in 1904, they established their reputation by creating a riding raincoat for Queen Alexandra.Turnbull & Asser shirts maintain traditional British shirt-making techniques while continuously incorporating innovative designs, growing into a brand loved across generations. The shirts are characterized by features such as wide spread collars and long, triple-button cuffs. The wide spread collar is designed to open at an angle close to 120 degrees when buttoned, giving a distinguished appearance when a tie is worn, reminiscent of British gentlemen. Additionally, there are cocktail cuffs, which are elegantly designed with a turn-back button closure and are known as a favorite of James Bond.

Turnbull & Asser shirts also feature even stitching on the placket, which serves as a structural pillar at the center front of the shirt. This even stitching creates a balanced appearance along the button line. Many models use Sea Island cotton fabric, known for its cashmere-like smoothness and silk-like luster.As the Royal Warrant signifies, the quality and dignity of Turnbull & Asser continue to captivate gentlemen worldwide. Turnbull & Asser shirts are not just garments but special items that embody the spirit of British gentlemen.Regarding the fabric, slightly stiffer materials tend to be preferred, possibly due to the humid weather, but in England, the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, delicate fabrics could also be woven. However, the highest quality fabrics produced by Thomas Mason in Lancashire and the renowned David & John Anderson in Scotland have already come under Italian ownership, and unfortunately, there are no longer any large-scale factories in the UK weaving shirt fabrics. Furthermore, the number of British shirt manufacturers producing ready-made shirts has significantly decreased, and while many brands proudly display “London” on their labels, production has shifted to Asia. Nevertheless, there are still a few historical brands that survive as bespoke makers on Jermyn Street in London.


Hilditch & Key is renowned for their meticulous attention to detail, embodying a discreet yet elegant style. Charles F. Hilditch and W. Graham Key first met during their training as shirtmakers at Harman’s of Duke Street, and in 1899, they partnered to establish their own business. With entrepreneurial spirit, they traveled to universities across the country, offering their shirt-making services and building a loyal clientele who would soon become young professionals in need of high-quality work attire. As the century turned, they moved their business to Jermyn Street, enhancing their reputation for exceptional quality and craftsmanship. In 1907, they opened a branch in Paris, which still operates today, solidifying their status as a respected name in fashion circles.

Today, Hilditch & Key continues to honor the traditional craft and heritage of Jermyn Street shirtmakers while evolving with contemporary trends. They eschew ostentation, embracing subtlety as the pinnacle of style. Their approach involves making minor adjustments to the fit of a shirt, the cut of the collar, or the accessories to keep up with modern fashion. Rumored to serve members of the royal family and celebrities, they maintain a strict policy of discretion, ensuring each customer’s privacy and respect.

Each Hilditch & Key shirt is a product of a meticulous process, passing through 55 pairs of hands. From the fine stitch length to the smooth seams and the hand-turned collar, every detail is crafted with precision and care, creating the refined features their customers value. Although they supply shirts to other retailers, they limit production to maintain their uncompromising quality.
Regarding the fabric, slightly stiffer materials tend to be preferred, possibly due to the humid weather, but in England, the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, delicate fabrics could also be woven. However, the highest quality fabrics produced by Thomas Mason in Lancashire and the renowned David & John Anderson in Scotland have already come under Italian ownership, and unfortunately, there are no longer any large-scale factories in the UK weaving shirt fabrics. Furthermore, the number of British shirt manufacturers producing ready-made shirts has significantly decreased, and while many brands proudly display “London” on their labels, production has shifted to Asia. Nevertheless, there are still a few historical brands that survive as bespoke makers on Jermyn Street in London.

Hilditch & Keyは、細部にまでこだわった洗練されたスタイルで知られています。チャールズ・F・ヒルディッチとW・グラハム・キーは、デュークストリートのハーマンズでシャツメーカーとしての訓練を受けている間に出会い、1899年にパートナーシップを結んで自分たちのビジネスを立ち上げました。この起業家精神に富んだ二人は、シャツ製作サービスを提供しながら国内の大学を巡り、やがて高品質な仕事着を必要とする若いプロフェッショナルとなる忠実な顧客層を築きました。世紀の変わり目に、彼らはビジネスをジャーミンストリートに移転し、卓越した品質と職人技の評判を高めました。そして1907年にはパリに支店を開設し、現在も営業を続けており、ファッション界で尊敬される地位を確立しました。今日、Hilditch & Keyはジャーミンストリートのシャツメーカーの伝統的な技術と遺産を尊重しながらも、現代のトレンドに適応しています。彼らは派手さを避け、控えめなスタイルを最も洗練された形態として受け入れています。シャツのフィット感や襟のカット、アクセサリーに小さな調整を加えることで現代のファッションに対応しています。顧客リストには王室のメンバーや有名人が含まれていると噂されていますが、彼らは顧客のプライバシーと尊重を保証するため、「縫って話すことはない」という厳格な方針を守っています。Hilditch & Keyのシャツは、製作過程で55人の手を経ています。細かなステッチの長さから滑らかな縫い目、手作業で仕上げられる襟まで、すべてが精密さと注意深さをもって処理され、顧客が評価する洗練されたディテールを生み出しています。他の小売業者にもシャツを供給していますが、品質を妥協しないために生産は制限されています。 
French Shirts
The history of French shirts is deeply intertwined with the development of European fashion from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. In medieval France, shirts primarily functioned as undergarments made of linen, but during the Renaissance, cuffs and collars adorned with lace and embroidery became status symbols for the upper class. In the 17th century, elaborate shirts with frills and lace became fashionable in the court of Louis XIV. Additionally, the use of silk became widespread during this period, with its sheen and texture adding a touch of luxury, especially for evening wear and special occasions. In the late 18th century, under the influence of Marie Antoinette, the Rococo style’s ornate and decorative fashion flourished. 
With the advent of the French Revolution, fashion underwent a significant transformation, favoring simpler and more practical styles. During this period, designs influenced by Neoclassicism emerged, and men’s shirts became simpler and more elegant. In the 19th century, the refined shirt styles influenced by England’s Beau Brummell gained popularity in France. The Industrial Revolution mechanized shirt production, making high-quality shirts more affordable and widely available.In the early 20th century, Parisian luxury shirtmaker Charvet established its prominence, earning worldwide acclaim for French shirts. Charvet continued to refine bespoke shirtmaking techniques and incorporated these high standards into their ready-to-wear collections.
Characteristics of French Brands
Historically, French shirts, rooted in the aristocratic society of France, are delicate and elegant in every aspect. While the number of workshops has decreased in modern times, France once boasted Lyon, the largest silk-producing region in Europe. There was no rival in the domain of silk dress shirts. In terms of tailoring, Charvet, the oldest existing brand with origins in bespoke tailoring like England, stands out as one of the world’s finest with its even stitching, beautiful pattern matching, and exquisite materials. The traditional French curved yoke is also a notable feature, providing great ease of movement due to its consideration of body structure. Additionally, the absence of a placket on the front and the turnover French cuffs epitomize elegance. Moreover, many factories that produce high-quality shirts while always introducing fashionable designs receive outsourcing from maisons like Hermès, Chanel, and Comme des Garçons.

・Structured collars and cuffs using floating interlinings
・Semi-wide collars or round collars
・Fine yarn fabrics with a beautiful sheen
・French cuffs
・French front (33mm)
・Curved yoke tailored to the body
・Horizontally cut hem
・Side slits (10cm)




Charvet, the world’s first shirtmaking store, was founded in 1838 on Rue de Richelieu in Paris. Founder Christofle Charvet provided high-quality products with the concept of “good taste for executives.” The high quality of Charvet’s products earned them a gold medal and the Grand Prize at the 1889 Exposition Universelle.Charvet gained fame throughout Europe, becoming a supplier to the royal families of England and Spain, and serving orders from prominent cultural figures, businessmen, and politicians. In 1870, Charvet moved to Place Vendôme, and in 1982, relocated to their current location at 28 Place Vendôme. They have expanded their collection to include women’s items, leather goods, and accessories.Charvet’s foundation lies in bespoke shirts, and they have honed this craft since 1838. In the 1960s, they developed a prêt-à-porter series, made with the same techniques and high-quality materials as their bespoke shirts. Their colors and patterns are the result of extensive research and a commitment to beauty. Charvet’s shirts are the ultimate in quality, featuring high-grade materials, unique colors and patterns, and over 160 years of bespoke craftsmanship. An example of Charvet’s meticulous care is their establishment of a dedicated laundry service in the 1920s, which delivered garments to customers by carriage. The appeal of Charvet’s products is underscored by their clientele, which has included President Charles de Gaulle, President John F. Kennedy, and Hollywood stars.

The polo shirt originated in the late 19th century in England, where polo players wore long-sleeve shirts with collars that could be buttoned to prevent them from flapping in the wind. In the 1920s, French tennis player René Lacoste revolutionized the polo shirt by designing a short-sleeve version made from lightweight, breathable cotton piqué fabric with a buttoned placket. This design became widely recognized as the “Lacoste shirt” and helped establish the modern polo shirt. By the 1950s, Lacoste’s polo shirts had gained popularity not only as sportswear but also as casual wear. American brand Ralph Lauren further solidified the polo shirt’s image by incorporating it into their “Polo” line. During the same period, brands like Fred Perry and Sergio Tacchini also contributed to the widespread adoption of polo shirts. Today, polo shirts are a staple item, worn in various settings from sports and business casual to leisurewear, and come in a wide range of designs, from classic to contemporary styles.
Lacoste’s origins date back to 1927 when French tennis player René Lacoste first wore a “collared short-sleeve knit” shirt on the tennis court, which was initially used by polo players. During his active years from 1923 to 1929 (with a brief return in 1932), typical tennis attire included white wool flannel or flannelette shirts and white flannel or duck fabric pants. However, due to health concerns, Lacoste opted for the breathable “short-sleeve collared knit” worn by polo players, marking the beginning of what would become the iconic Lacoste polo shirt. This change in attire laid the foundation for the Lacoste brand, which was established four years after  his retirement due to illness at the age of 25.The polo shirt began to gain popularity in France during the 1930s and became a staple casual shirt by 1932. Before Lacoste’s founding, this type of shirt was sometimes referred to as “Chimese Lacoste” in France. In 1933, René Lacoste partnered with André Gillier, the president of a knitwear manufacturing company, to establish “La Chimise Lacoste.” They jointly invested 5,000 francs (Lacoste) and 1,000 francs (Gillier) into the venture. Initially, the polo shirt featured a slightly different design from today, with a three-button placket and the crocodile logo embroidered on the right chest. The main materials used were wool, but cotton and linen versions were also available. The iconic crocodile logo, which remains the brand’s trademark, was inspired by Lacoste’s nickname “The Alligator” or “The Crocodile,” given to him for his tenacious playing style during his Davis Cup victories. Today, Lacoste operates six production sites in France and has factories in Morocco, Romania, and Peru, as well as a partner factory in Akita, Japan. The brand employs around 10,000 people globally and primarily uses cotton grown in the United States and Egypt for its products.Lacoste’s enduring legacy and commitment to quality continue to make it a leading brand in the world of fashion, known for its classic yet innovative designs.
ラコステの起源は1927年に遡ります。この年、フランスのテニス選手ルネ・ラコステが、当初はポロ選手が使用していた「襟付き半袖ニット」シャツをテニスコートで初めて着用しました。1923年から1929年までの現役時代(1932年に一時復帰)には、典型的なテニスウェアは白のウールフランネルやフランネレットのシャツ、白のフランネルまたはダック生地のパンツでした。しかし、健康上の問題からラコステは、ポロ選手が着用していた通気性の良い「襟付き半袖ニット」を選び、これが後に象徴的なラコステのポロシャツとなる衣服の始まりとなりました。この衣装の変更がラコステブランドの基盤を築き、彼が25歳で病気のために引退した4年後にブランドが設立されました。ポロシャツは1930年代にフランスで人気を集め始め、1932年には定番のカジュアルシャツとなりました。ラコステの創業以前、フランスではこのタイプのシャツを「Chimese Lacoste」と呼ぶこともありました。1933年にルネ・ラコステはニットウェア製造会社の社長アンドレ・ジリエと提携し、「La Chimise Lacoste」社を設立しました。ラコステは5000フラン、ジリエは1000フランを共同出資しました。当初、ポロシャツは現在のデザインとは少し異なり、右胸にクロコダイルのロゴが刺繍された「3つボタン」のデザインでした。主な素材はウールでしたが、コットンやリネンのバージョンもありました。ブランドのトレードマークとして残る象徴的なクロコダイルのロゴは、デビスカップでの勝利時に彼の粘り強いプレイスタイルにちなんで付けられた「アリゲーター」または「クロコダイル」のニックネームに由来します。現在、ラコステはフランス国内に6つの生産拠点を持ち、モロッコ、ルーマニア、ペルーにも工場があります。また、日本の秋田県にも提携工場を有しています。ラコステは世界中で約10,000人の従業員を抱え、主にアメリカとエジプトで栽培された綿花を使用していますラコステの持続的な遺産と品質へのこだわりは、クラシックでありながら革新的なデザインで知られるブランドとして、ファッション界でのリーダーシップを続けています。 
Italian Shirts
Before its unification in the 19th century, Italy was divided into multiple small states, each with its own unique culture and fashion style. The differences between northern and southern Italy were particularly pronounced. The north was industrially advanced, with a strong emphasis on precision machine production. In contrast, the south focused on craftsmanship, with handmade products being the norm. Especially in Naples and the surrounding areas, the tradition of handmade shirts and suits has been passed down through generations. In northern Italy, machine-made shirts are common, characterized by precise and efficient sewing done with machines. Industrial cities like Milan and Turin developed advanced machining techniques, which were applied to shirt manufacturing. Additionally, northern Italy was influenced by the French kingdom, with its refined elegance and luxury becoming the foundation of the region’s fashion. The combination of French aristocratic culture and industrial technology led to the creation of a uniquely sophisticated style in northern Italian fashion. In contrast, the development of handmade shirts in Naples was influenced by the British aristocracy, who vacationed in southern Italy. They preferred lightweight, comfortable, hand-sewn shirts and suits during their stays, driving the local tailors to enhance their skills. Southern craftsmen meticulously performed each step by hand, producing high-quality products that emphasized softness and fit. Techniques such as hand-sewn sleeves and collars ensured both comfort and durability.
The Victorian era of British fashion was widely embraced by the Italian upper class, establishing a classic and elegant style. British tailoring techniques were a significant learning opportunity for Italian tailors, especially in Naples, where the influence remains strong. Italian shirt makers incorporated British styles while merging them with their own traditions, using extensive hand-stitching to create a unique style. The unification of Italy in 1861 led to the merging of regional cultures, resulting in a diverse fashion landscape. Post-unification, Italy rapidly industrialized, and the fashion industry flourished, with Milan emerging as a major fashion hub. Today, Milan is one of the world’s leading fashion cities, with the annual Milan Fashion Week drawing global attention. Italian fashion consistently reflects the cultural and historical differences between the north and south, while pursuing high standards of quality and design. Northern Italy’s machine-made precision and southern Italy’s handcrafted excellence each contribute to the allure of Italian fashion. Italian shirts, known for their meticulous machine-made precision combined with traditional handcrafting, are highly regarded worldwide.
Northern Italy
Northern Italy has historically been heavily influenced by France, the Holy Roman Empire, and the Habsburgs. These invasions significantly altered Northern Italy’s culture and technology, resulting in the development of a sophisticated fashion style. The influence of French aristocratic culture, in particular, brought about intricate and elegant designs that became a hallmark of Northern Italian fashion.The Roman Empire utilized wool as a vital textile, employing it widely in military uniforms and everyday clothing. As the Roman Empire expanded, wool manufacturing techniques spread across Europe. During the Middle Ages, cities like Florence and Venice in Northern Italy became hubs of wool production, producing high-quality woolen goods. Silk also became a crucial element of Northern Italy’s textile industry. Though silk had been valued in Italy since ancient times, its importance surged during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Venice and Florence emerged as central figures in silk production and trade. Venice imported raw silk from the East via trade routes and distributed the refined products across Europe. In Florence, wealthy patrons like the Medici family drove the demand for silk textiles, leading to advancements in high-quality silk production.During the Renaissance, Milan flourished as a center of art and culture, attracting numerous artists and craftsmen. Northern Italian cities, including Milan, became hubs of innovation and creativity, impacting garment manufacturing as well. Genoa and Venice played vital roles as trade and commercial centers, spreading Northern Italy’s rich cultural influence.Cotton began to be introduced to Europe around the 13th century, and by the 16th century, it was being extensively used in Italy. Milan and Genoa became significant centers for cotton products, facilitating cotton processing and trade.
From the late 19th to the early 20th century, Italy experienced industrialization. Cities like Milan and Turin evolved into industrial powerhouses. Milan’s industrialization led to advancements in precision machinery, which were applied to garment manufacturing. Turin, having briefly served as Italy’s capital, became a key political and economic hub. The silk industry remained significant, with Milan and the areas around Lake Como recognized as prime silk production centers. The Industrial Revolution profoundly impacted Italy’s industrialization, with the textile industry in Northern Italy rapidly advancing. The invention and widespread adoption of the sewing machine in the 19th century further revolutionized Northern Italy’s shirt manufacturing. Sewing machines enabled precise and efficient stitching, enhancing both productivity and quality. Northern Italian clothing and shirts became renowned for their uniform, beautiful stitches and durability. The meticulous sewing machine techniques, combined with the refined French cultural influence, helped Northern Italy establish its unique fashion style. The diverse cultural and technological contributions from cities like Milan, Turin, Genoa, and Venice have supported Northern Italy’s fashion industry. The intricate details and high craftsmanship characteristic of Northern Italian shirts continue to be highly esteemed in the world of Italian fashion, admired globally for their beauty and quality.

・Precise Cutting
・Urban and Sophisticated Fashion
・High Durability of Machine-Made
・High-Quality Fabric
・Subtle Design Uncharacteristic of Traditional Italian Style
・Combination of Hand Sewing and Machine Sewing
・Elegant Collar Design
・Moderate Thickness of Buttons
・Fine Stitch Pitch
・Silhouette That Is Not Too Shaped
・French Front (Hidden Placket)
・Simple Design Without Decoration
・Fit That Is Not Too Tight


北部イタリアは歴史的にフランス王国や神聖ローマ帝国、ハプスブルク家の影響を大きく受けてきました。これらの勢力の侵入により、北部イタリアの文化や技術は大きく変化し、洗練されたファッションスタイルが形成されました。特にフランス王国の貴族文化の影響は、繊細でエレガントなデザインを特徴とする北部イタリアのファッションに大きな影響を与えました。 ローマ帝国はウールを重要な繊維として利用し、軍服や日常の衣服に広く使用しました。ローマ帝国の広がりとともにウールの製造技術もヨーロッパ全土に広がりました。中世には、特に北イタリアの都市であるフィレンツェやヴェネツィアがウール産業の中心地として発展し、高品質なウール製品を生産しました。 シルク産業もまた北部イタリアの重要な要素となりました。シルクは古代からイタリアで重要な繊維として扱われてきましたが、中世からルネサンス期にかけてその重要性がさらに増しました。特にヴェネツィアとフィレンツェは、シルク製品の生産と取引の中心地として知られ、多くのシルク職人が活動しました。ヴェネツィアは東方との貿易ルートを通じてシルクの原材料を輸入し、その精緻な製品をヨーロッパ全土に供給しました。フィレンツェでは、メディチ家をはじめとする富裕なパトロンたちがシルク織物の需要を高め、高品質なシルク製品の生産が進みました。 ルネサンス時代には、ミラノが芸術と文化の中心地として栄え、多くのアーティストや職人が集まりました。ミラノをはじめとする北部イタリアの都市は、技術革新と創造性の拠点となり、服飾の製造においてもその影響が見られます。ジェノバやヴェネツィアも貿易と商業の拠点として重要な役割を果たし、北部イタリア全体に豊かな文化的影響を及ぼしました。 コットンは13世紀ごろからヨーロッパに伝わり始め、16世紀には本格的にイタリアでも取り扱われるようになりました。特にミラノとジェノバがコットン製品の重要な拠点となり、コットンの加工と取引が盛んに行われました。 19世紀後半から20世紀初頭にかけて、イタリアの工業化が進みました。特にミラノやトリノは産業の中心地として発展しました。ミラノは工業化によって精密な機械加工技術が発展し、服飾の製造にもその技術が応用されました。トリノが一時期イタリアの首都となったこともあり、北部イタリアは政治と経済の重要な拠点となりました。シルク産業も引き続き重要であり、特にミラノとコモ湖周辺がシルク生産の中心地として知られるようになりました。 産業革命はイタリアの工業化に大きな影響を与え、特に北部イタリアでは繊維工業が急速に発展しました。19世紀にミシンの発明と普及により、北部イタリアのシャツ製造はさらに進化しました。ミシンによる正確で効率的な縫製が可能になり、シャツの生産性と品質が向上しました。北部イタリアの服やシャツは均一で美しいステッチと耐久性の高さが特徴でした。ミシンによる精緻な縫製技術とフランス王国の洗練された文化が融合し、北部イタリアのシャツは独自のスタイルを確立しました。ミラノやトリノ、ジェノバ、ヴェネツィアなどの都市がもたらす多様な文化と技術が、北部イタリアのファッションを支えています。


FRAY was founded in Bologna in 1962 by Lucia Pasin Landi. Bologna, located between Rome and Milan, is known both as an industrial city and an academic hub. Lucia Pasin Landi inherited her Swiss grandmother’s lace factory and transformed it into a shirt factory. After her passing, her grandson, Giacomo Guazzini, took over the business.FRAY is renowned for its high-quality shirt making, particularly its use of carefully selected, top-quality fabrics. Sourced from famous textile manufacturers in Italy and Switzerland, standout materials include exclusive fabrics from Carlo Riva and Alumo. Every step in the process is done by hand. Each part is individually cut according to the customer’s specifications, ensuring that the fabric’s grain and pattern are perfectly aligned. The sewing, which includes the shoulders, sides, sleeve slits, and front placket, is done with precision to maintain design continuity. Hand-set sleeves offer a fit and comfort that machine production cannot match. The final ironing is meticulously done by hand before the shirt is carefully packaged in a high-quality box.They are sewn with an impressive ten stitches per centimeter, ensuring durability and a refined finish. The collars and patterns are precisely matched, and buttonholes can be hand-sewn upon request. The buttons are made from specially thickened Australian mother-of-pearl. Every shirt is crafted by skilled artisans and inspected at every stage to ensure the highest quality. FRAY’s commitment to small-scale production and meticulous craftsmanship has earned it a reputation for elegance and quality. As a result, FRAY shirts are celebrated as the ultimate in machine-made luxury shirts, recognized worldwide for their unparalleled quality.
GUY ROVER is a premier shirt brand founded in 1967 in Piacenza, Northern Italy, known for its all-machine-made high-quality shirts. With the concept of providing the best shirts at reasonable prices, GUY ROVER offers both dress and casual shirts. All GUY ROVER shirts are machine-made, featuring precise stitching and a three-dimensional design. The brand continuously integrates traditional tailoring techniques (sartoria) into modern shirts through constant experimentation. GUY ROVER, known for its high-quality yet reasonably priced shirts, has been offering cost-effective shirts for a long time, gaining popularity as a leading Italian shirt manufacturer. The brand produces OEM shirts for famous labels such as Gucci and Etro, ensuring a reputation for quality. GUY ROVER shirts are widely available in numerous select shops in Italy and internationally, particularly in Japan, where the brand enjoys widespread support.
GUY ROVER(ギ ローバー)は、1967年に北イタリアのピアツェンツァで創業されたオールマシンメイドによる最高級シャツブランドです。最高のシャツをリーズナブルな価格で提供することをコンセプトとし、ドレスシャツやカジュアルシャツを発表しています。GUY ROVERのシャツはすべてマシンメイドで製作されており、確かな縫製と立体的なデザインに定評があります。伝統的な仕立て屋(サルトリア)の技術を現代のシャツに反映させるため、常に試行錯誤を重ねています。品質に比べてリーズナブルな価格帯で、高品質なシャツを提供するGUY ROVERは、長い間コストパフォーマンスの高いシャツを提供しており、多くのファンに愛されるイタリアを代表するシャツメーカーとして知名度を広げています。グッチやエトロなどの有名ブランドのOEMも請け負っており、品質には定評があり、イタリア製のシャツを気軽に楽しむことができるブランドです。イタリア国内外の多くのセレクトショップで扱われており、特に日本を中心に広く支持されています。
Southern Italy
Southern Italy, particularly Naples, has a rich and diverse history that has significantly influenced fashion, especially in the realm of shirt making. The region’s history is marked by cultural influences from the Islamic expansion, which brought new textiles and technologies such as cotton and silk. Cotton, introduced through Islamic trade routes, became a valuable material in Southern Italy and began spreading to Europe around the 13th century. Although detailed records of the cotton industry in Southern Italy are limited, it is known that Naples and Sicilian cities started dealing with cotton in the 16th century, making these areas important centers for cotton product processing and trade.Silk production particularly thrived in Sicily, where Eastern techniques combined with local craftsmanship to produce highly esteemed products throughout Europe. Venice imported raw silk through its trade routes with the East, supplying intricately crafted silk goods across the continent. Florence, under the patronage of the Medici family and other wealthy patrons, increased the demand for high-quality silk, leading to a flourishing silk industry. During the Renaissance, the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily developed unique cultures, with Naples becoming a key center. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Neapolitan fashion gained recognition across Europe as the city’s aristocracy and upper classes demanded intricate clothing, leading to the rise of highly skilled tailors.
Naples was influenced by various external forces, including Spain, France, and the Habsburgs, resulting in a highly diverse and refined culture and technology.In the 19th century, Naples became a popular summer resort for the upper class. This increased demand led local tailors to incorporate British styles into their own, developing unique hand-sewing techniques. Neapolitan artisans crafted lightweight and comfortable shirts and suits to meet the needs of the upper class. Consequently, Neapolitan shirts became known for their high quality, flexibility, and excellent fit.Features of Neapolitan shirts include soft collars, hand-sewn buttonholes, and natural shoulder lines. Made from high-quality cotton, silk, linen, and other materials, these shirts are meticulously crafted by artisans. The detailed handwork involved in creating a Neapolitan shirt ensures its quality and elegance, making it beloved by fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Naples, as a crossroads of Southern Italian history and culture, remains renowned for its rich traditions and high craftsmanship in shirt making.

・High and small armholes
・Tight fit around the waist and chest
・Narrow shoulders
・Firm collar interlining
・Adjustable collar height
・Semi-fused collar
・Gathered details
・Extra fabric allowance for movement
・brand statement at the Gazette
・Hand-sewn buttonholes
・Soft collars
・High-quality materials (cotton, silk, linen)
・Custom cuff shapes
・Bespoke elements
・Low labor costs




Anna Matuozzo was born in Naples in 1952 and began learning shirt-making at the age of nine. After building her career as a shirt maker at the famous Neapolitan shop “London House,” she went independent and founded her own camisceria, Anna Matuozzo. Her shirts are known for their unique craftsmanship, with all parts that touch the skin being hand-finished, reflecting the origin of shirts as undergarments. Even ready-made shirts feature 13 handmade points, making them a pinnacle of Neapolitan dress shirts. Anna Matuozzo’s shirts are crafted entirely by hand by a team of eight female artisans in Naples, who handle everything from fabric cutting and sewing to pressing. The carefully selected materials, perfect patterns, and delicate handwork create shirts that maintain an elegant line even under a jacket, allowing the wearer to enjoy their softness and quality even when the jacket is removed.

Another distinctive feature of her shirts is the intricate details such as gathered sleeves and “manica camicia” (shirt sleeves), which add a unique flair. These details, crafted by hand, bring out the characteristic charm of Italian shirts. While many shirts have machine-stitched buttonholes, Anna Matuozzo’s shirts are meticulously finished by hand, using thick, prominent buttons. The gathered yoke and the precise stitching of the collar also reflect the high level of craftsmanship. Customers can choose from about 200 types of fabric, including top-quality shirting materials like Carlo Riva and Thomas Mason, as well as vintage fabrics that have been carefully preserved in her workshop over the years. Anna Matuozzo’s shirts are considered some of the finest in the world, embodying high-quality craftsmanship and the beauty of Neapolitan style, making them a coveted brand for shirt enthusiasts.

アンナ・マトッツォ(Anna Matuozzo)は、ナポリで1952年に生まれ、9歳からシャツづくりを学び始めました。彼女は、ナポリの名店「ロンドンハウス」で長年シャツ職人としてのキャリアを積んだ後、独立して自身のカミチェリア<アンナ・マトッツォ>を設立しました。彼女のシャツは、シャツがかつて肌着であったというオリジンに基づき、肌に触れる部分をすべてハンドで仕上げるというこだわりを持ち、既製品でも13箇所にも及ぶハンドメイド仕立てが特徴です。このハンドメイドの技術は、通常ミシンで行われる直線部分も含め、全て手作業で行われており、ナポリスタイルのドレスシャツの頂点とされています。アンナ・マトッツォのシャツは、ナポリの女性職人8名によって、生地の裁断、縫製、プレスまで全て手作業で作られています。素材は厳選され、完璧なパターンと繊細な手作業によって生み出されるシャツは、ジャケットの中でもたつかず、エレガントなラインを作り出します。これにより、ジャケットを脱いだ時もそのしなやかさと上質感を堪能することができます。彼女のシャツのもう一つの特徴は、袖のギャザーや肩のあめふらしなどの細かいディテールにあります。これらのディテールは、手作業ならではの丁寧さと、イタリアンシャツ特有の色気を生み出しています。ボタンホールはミシンで仕上げられることが多いですが、アンナ・マトッツォのシャツでは手作業で丁寧に仕上げられており、ボタンは厚く目立つものが使用されています。ヨークのギャザーも手の込んだ作りで、襟の縫い付けも非常に丁寧です。アンナ・マトッツォが選び抜いた約200種類の生地から選ぶことができ「カルロ・リーバ」や「トーマス・メイソン」などの最高級クラスのシャツ生地そして長年工房で大切に保管されてきたビンテージファブリックも用意されています。アンナ・マトッツォのシャツは世界で最高峰のシャツであり、特別な手作業による高品質な仕立てとナポリスタイルの美しさを存分に体験できるシャツ好きなら誰もが憧れるブランドです。
Kiton was founded in Naples in 1969 by Ciro Paone. Naples, once the most prosperous city in Europe, developed a rich cultural background where the skills of tailors (sarti) flourished, giving rise to classic tailored clothing. Born into a family of fabric wholesalers for seven generations, Paone established Kiton with the aim of preserving Neapolitan tailoring techniques and culture and creating the finest suits for a new era. In its early days, legendary modelers like Cesare Attolini, Enrico Isaia, and Luciano Barbera gathered at Kiton, marking a historic beginning for the brand. Kiton is committed to creating the world’s most beautiful clothing using the finest fabrics and the best craftsmen. From the compatibility of interlinings and fabrics to ironing, sewing sleeves and shoulders, and buttonholes, every detail is crafted without compromise. The unique softness and drape of Kiton garments are achieved through the meticulous work of their artisans. Kiton continues to pursue quality and originality, offering exclusive, luxurious, and high-quality fabrics woven by top mills in England and Italy. The diversity and expertise in the fabrics, from Super 180’s 4PLY worsted wool and 100% cashmere suit fabrics to rare Guanaco and Vicuna, are hallmarks of Kiton. Each garment is completed through over 150 steps and 20 to 40 hours of handwork, earning the brand overwhelming support from celebrities and notable figures worldwide.
Kiton shirts are high-quality items crafted with special handmade techniques, embodying the beauty of Neapolitan tailoring. These shirts feature a clean front design and two back pleats, enhancing comfort and ease of movement. The buttons, made from white mother-of-pearl oysters harvested in Australian waters, are engraved by hand. The production of Kiton shirts is limited, and each one is handmade by skilled artisans. From fabric cutting to sewing and ironing, every step is handled by expert tailors, requiring high skill and time. Each shirt undergoes 22 steps and takes about five hours to complete, ensuring a gentle fit that adapts flexibly to movement for a stress-free wearing experience. Approximately 27% of Kiton shirt production is custom-made, characterized by unique clothing tailored to individual customer needs.
キートン(Kiton)は1969年にナポリでチロ・パオーネ(Ciro Paone)によって設立されました。ナポリはかつてヨーロッパ随一の繁栄を誇り、豊かな文化的背景の中でサルト(仕立て職人)たちの技術が発展し、クラシックな仕立て服が誕生しました。パオーネは7代続く服地卸の名家に生まれ、ナポリ仕立ての技術と文化を守り、新しい時代の最高のスーツを作ることを目指してキートンを設立しました。創業初期には伝説的なモデリストのチェザーレ・アットリーニやエンリコ・イザイア、ルチアーノ・バルベラなどが参集し、キートンのスーツは歴史的な幕開けを迎えました。キートンのこだわりは、最高の生地と優れた職人による世界で最も美しい服を作ることです。芯地と服地の相性、アイロンによる馴らし、袖や肩、ボタンホールのかがりなど、細部に至るまで妥協を許しません。キートンの服特有の柔らかさとドレープの美しさは職人たちの手によって生み出されています。キートンはそのクオリティとオリジナリティへの探求を続けており、イギリス・イタリアのトップミルで織られる贅沢で高品質な生地をエクスクルーシブで提供しています。Super180’s 4PLYのウーステッド、カシミア100%のスーツ生地、希少なグアナコやビキューナなど、生地の多様性と専門性はキートンならではです。150段階以上の工程と20〜40時間を要する手作業で完成し、世界中のセレブリティや著名人から支持を得ています。キートンのシャツは特別な手作業による高品質な仕立てと、ナポリ仕立ての美しさを体験できるアイテムです。シャツはフロントがすっきりとしたデザインで、バックには2本のプリーツがあり、着心地と動きやすさが向上しています。また、オーストラリアのオイスターから採取された白蝶貝のボタンには手彫りの刻印があります。シャツは生産数が限られており、そのすべてが職人たちの手作業です。生地のカッティングから縫製、アイロンまで各工程は専門のサルトが担当し、高い技術と時間を要します。シャツ1枚あたり22の工程を経て約5時間がかかり、体に優しくフィットし、柔軟に対応するストレスフリーな着心地を実現しています。シャツ生産の約27%がオーダーメイドであり、顧客のニーズに応じた独自の服作りが特徴です。
Barba Napoli traces its origins back to a small shirt workshop established by Antonio Barba (whose wife, Anna, is the sister of Kiton founder Ciro Paone) in the suburbs of Naples in 1964. In its early days, the workshop gathered skilled Neapolitan shirtmakers to produce handcrafted shirts and pajamas for a limited clientele. Later, Antonio’s sons, Raffaele and Mario, took over the business, dedicating themselves to expanding the operations and realizing the potential of the “BARBA” brand. Raffaele focused on patterns and tailoring, while Mario specialized in fabrics. Together, they merged their father’s artisanal techniques with new ideas, giving birth to a new generation of BARBA shirts.Their shirts are characterized by the traditional Neapolitan handmade style, including hand-stitched sleeves, collars, buttonholes, buttons, bar tacks, and gussets. Additionally, they feature a wide variety of collar styles and fabric variations that incorporate current trends, creating a unique blend of classic and modern aesthetics that quickly gained attention. Today, Barba Napoli not only produces shirts but also tailored jackets, renowned for their soft comfort and modern style. Raffaele Barba, as the owner and modelist, continuously evolves the designs with subtle annual improvements. Their products are sold in high-end boutiques worldwide, offering innovative men’s and women’s collections that combine high-quality materials with classic elegance.
Luigi Borrelli was founded as a shirt manufacturer in Naples, Italy in 1957. However, its history dates back even further to 1904, when Anna Borrelli began making shirts for her neighbors at her home. Her shirts quickly gained a reputation, and by 1918 she had set up an atelier and dedicated herself to shirt-making. Her son, Luigi Borrelli, inherited her skills and passion and established the shirt manufacturer “Luigi Borrelli” in 1957. Luigi pursued shirt-making by thoroughly studying the human body and combining machine and handwork. He perfected eight key processes—attaching sleeves, collars, yokes, front plackets, bar tacks, buttons, buttonholes, and gussets—all finished by hand to ensure a soft feel and durability. In the 1980s, Luigi’s son Fabio Borrelli joined the business, expanding it into a total fashion brand that includes not only shirts but also ties, suits, jackets, trousers, jeans, knitwear, underwear, and accessories. Fabio, building on the techniques handed down from his father and grandmother, further refined and enhanced the appeal of Borrelli’s handmade garments. The brand promises the best wearing comfort through a combination of high-quality materials, outstanding tailoring techniques of Naples, and unique color sense. Luigi Borrelli’s innovative spirit continues to thrive, merging past traditions with modern sophistication.
Luigi Borrelli’s shirts are known for their three-dimensional cutting, which ensures a perfect fit and the highest comfort. The fabrics used are exclusive ones from Italy’s top three shirt fabric brands, including Albini, known for their beauty and comfort. All essential details of the shirts are hand-sewn, featuring the characteristic soft tailoring of Naples. The “manica camicia” technique used in sleeve attachment ensures freedom of movement while maintaining a smart silhouette. Additionally, the hand-sewn bar tacks on the placket openings provide durability while keeping the shirt soft.The combination of superior fit achieved through three-dimensional tailoring and the exquisite handwork of skilled artisans makes Luigi Borrelli shirts exceptionally comfortable and attractive. Those who wear Borrelli shirts are often captivated by their charm. The brand’s global growth is supported by its high quality and elegance. Luigi Borrelli shirts instill confidence and allure in the wearer, earning their place as the epitome of Neapolitan shirts, cherished worldwide.

ルイジ ボレッリ(LUIGI BORRELLI)は、イタリアのナポリにて1957年にシャツメーカーとして創業されました。しかし、その歴史はさらに遡り、1904年にアンナ・ボレッリが自宅で近所の人々のためにシャツを仕立て始めたことに始まります。彼女のシャツは評判を呼び、1918年にはアトリエを構え、本格的にシャツ作りに専念しました。アンナの息子であるルイジ・ボレッリは、その技術と情熱を受け継ぎ、1957年に「ルイジ ボレッリ」としてシャツメーカーを設立しました。ルイジは人体を徹底的に研究し、ミシンと手作業を組み合わせたシャツ作りを追求しました。シャツ作りのポイントとなる袖付け、衿付け、ヨーク、前立て、かんぬき、ボタン、ボタンホール、ガゼットの8工程を手縫いで仕上げ、ソフトな着心地と耐久性を実現しました。1980年代にはルイジの息子ファビオ・ボレッリが経営に参加し、シャツだけでなくネクタイ、スーツ、ジャケット、パンツ、ジーンズ、ニット、アンダーウェア、雑貨などを展開するトータルファッションブランドとして成長しました。ファビオは、父や祖母から受け継いだ技術を基に、さらに研究と改良を重ね、ボレッリのハンドメイドの魅力を一層輝かせています。良質な素材選び、ナポリの伝統を継承する卓越した仕立て技術、独特な色彩感覚が絶妙に調和し、最高の着心地を約束します。過去の伝統と現在の洗練の融合によって、「ルイジ ボレッリ」の革新性はとどまることを知りません。ルイジ ボレッリのシャツは、立体裁断によって身体にフィットし、最高の着心地を実現しています。使用される生地も、イタリア三大シャツ生地ブランドであるALBINI社のエクスクルーシブファブリックを使用し、美しさと快適さを兼ね備えています。シャツの重要なディテールは全て手縫いで仕上げられ、ナポリ特有の柔らかな仕立てが特徴です。袖の取り付けには「雨ふらし(マニカカミーチャ)」という技法が用いられ、腕の運動性を確保しながらもスマートなシルエットを実現しています。ボレッリのシャツは、剣ボロの開閉部分に手縫いのカンヌキ止めを施し、ソフトでありながら耐久性の高い仕上がりです。ルイジ ボレッリのシャツは、立体的な仕立てによる優れた着心地と、職人の手仕事の美しさが融合しています。その結果、ボレッリのシャツを一度着ると、その魅力に魅了される人が多いです。ボレッリが世界的なブランドへと成長した背景には、その高い品質とエレガンスがあります。ボレッリのシャツは、着る人に自信と魅力を与え、ナポリシャツの代名詞として世界中で愛されています。

– cASUAL –
The Capri shirt originates from the island of Capri in Italy and is known for its elegant and relaxed style. Made from lightweight and breathable materials, it is particularly suitable for casual summer wear. Capri shirts gained popularity in the 1950s and 1960s on the island of Capri, which was renowned as a resort destination for the European upper class and celebrities. Figures such as Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy visited the island and wore Capri shirts, helping to popularize the style globally.Capri shirts are made primarily from lightweight, breathable materials such as linen, cotton, and silk. These fabrics are designed to keep you comfortable in hot weather. Additionally, linen and cotton are easy to wash and durable enough to withstand frequent summer wear.The design of Capri shirts includes several distinctive features. They typically have an open-collar design that keeps the neck cool and adds a casual yet elegant look. The hems of Capri shirts are usually cut short, creating a stylish and smart silhouette. Many designs feature shell buttons passed through button loops, often small and simple in design. The patterns and colors of Capri shirts often emphasize a resort vibe, using pastel colors, stripes, checks, and floral patterns. The sleeves are usually three-quarter length, providing ease of movement and comfort. The high-quality materials and thoughtful design make Capri shirts an essential item for summer resort fashion.
American Shirts
The history and characteristics of American shirts reflect the diverse cultural background and changing times of the country. During the colonial era, American fashion was primarily influenced by British styles. At that time, shirts were mainly made of linen or wool and were characterized by their simple designs. The cotton plantations of the 18th century significantly impacted the American shirt industry. Cotton cultivation became the economic center of the South, supported by slave labor. The mass-produced cotton was used for shirt production, making cotton shirts common. Following the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, American shirt designs became even more diverse.The mid-19th century Gold Rush was a crucial period for the evolution of American shirts. Workers flocking to California demanded durable and functional clothing. As a result, sturdy shirts made from denim and canvas became widespread. The Gold Rush also marked the beginning of the American West’s development, and shirts from this period were known for their practicality.
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, known as the era of immigration, many people moved to America seeking a new life, leading to a fusion of various cultures. Immigrants brought different styles and techniques, which influenced American shirt designs and led to unique innovations. The Arrow shirt introduced detachable collars, a revolutionary design combining cleanliness and cost-effectiveness. Additionally, Brooks Brothers’ polo collar (button-down shirts) emerged during this period, becoming widely popular among American businessmen and students.In the 1920s, the era of the Roaring Twenties saw American fashion undergo significant transformations. Shirt designs became more refined, incorporating various color patterns and textures. Materials like silk and cotton were extensively used, and shirts became a staple in business attire. However, the Great Depression of the 1930s greatly impacted the American clothing industry. With the economic downturn, shirt designs reverted to simpler, more practical styles. The use of expensive materials declined, and cost-effective fabrics became the norm.After World War II, America became a symbol of prosperity and freedom, influencing global culture. The hippie and jazz movements helped spread American casual fashion worldwide, with denim and flannel shirts becoming symbols of youth culture.
Polo Collar
Among the shirts invented in America, the history of the button-down shirt is particularly unique, blending practicality and style. The origins of the button-down shirt date back to the 1870s in England. During this time, football and polo players wore sports shirts with collars fastened by buttons to prevent them from flapping in the wind. This functional design was created to ensure that players’ performance was not hindered. The innovative design was brought to America by John E. Brooks, the grandson of the founder of Brooks Brothers. In 1896, John E. Brooks visited England and was impressed by the button-down shirts worn by polo players. He brought this idea back to New York, made some modifications, and began selling it through Brooks Brothers as the “Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt.” This shirt quickly gained popularity and became a flagship product for Brooks Brothers. The button on the collar was particularly praised for combining practicality with style, and it became widely adopted among American businessmen. The button-down shirt, with its distinctive design, became suitable for a wide range of occasions, from casual to business settings.Entering the 20th century, the button-down shirt established itself as a symbol of classic American style. It gained even more popularity in the 1950s during the “Ivy League style” boom, being favored by many students and young people. The button-down shirt became a staple item for Ivy Leaguers, and its popularity continues to this day. This style has been widely accepted not only in America but also in Japan and other countries around the world.

・ Button-down collar
・ Oxford fabric
・ Box pleats
・ Horizontal One Piece Yoke
・ Relaxed fit
・ Large armholes
・ Durable materials
・ Non-iron
・ Polyester blends and other
・ synthetic fibers
・ Versatile for both casual and formal wear
・ Sturdy stitching



Brooks Brothers is the oldest men’s clothing brand in America, founded in 1818 in New York by Henry Sands Brooks. Initially, Brooks Brothers focused on high-quality suits, quickly becoming a favorite among American businessmen, politicians, and even U.S. presidents. The introduction of the iconic button-down shirt dates back to 1896, marking a significant milestone in the brand’s history and American men’s fashion. The origin of the button-down shirt traces back to John E. Brooks, the founder’s grandson, who was inspired by the shirts worn by polo players during a visit to England. These shirts had collars secured with buttons to prevent them from flapping in the wind. John brought this idea back to New York, refined it, and launched the “Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt.” This shirt quickly gained popularity and became one of Brooks Brothers’ signature products. The buttoned collar, combining practicality and style, was highly appreciated and widely adopted by American businessmen.In the 20th century, Brooks Brothers solidified its position as a symbol of classic American style. The introduction of the “Madison Avenue Suit” in the 1920s reinforced its reputation as a leading brand of traditional American style. During the 1950s, the brand capitalized on the “Ivy League Style” boom, attracting many students and young people. The button-down shirt became a staple for Ivy Leaguers and remains popular to this day. Ivy fashion also sparked a significant trend in Japan.
However, the 21st century brought financial challenges for Brooks Brothers. The COVID-19 pandemic exacerbated these difficulties, leading the company to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in July 2020. Subsequently, the brand was acquired by Simon Property Group and Authentic Brands Group, who are working on its restructuring and revival.

ブルックスブラザーズ(Brooks Brothers)は、アメリカ最古のメンズウェアブランドであり、その歴史は1818年にニューヨークでヘンリー・サンズ・ブルックスによって設立されたことに始まります。当初、ブルックスブラザーズは高品質のスーツを中心に展開し、アメリカのビジネスマンや政治家、さらには歴代大統領にも愛用されました。ブランドのアイコンとなるボタンダウンシャツの登場は1896年に遡ります。ブルックスブラザーズのボタンダウンシャツは、ブランドの歴史とアメリカのメンズファッションにおいて特に重要な位置を占めています。 ボタンダウンシャツの起源は、ブルックスブラザーズの創業者の孫であるジョン・E・ブルックスが、イギリスのポロ競技を観戦した際に選手が着ていたシャツに感銘を受けたことにあります。このシャツの襟が風にひらひらしないようにボタンで固定されているのを見たジョンは、これをニューヨークに持ち帰り、改良を加えたうえで「オックスフォード・クロス・ボタンダウンシャツ」として販売を開始しました。このシャツは瞬く間に人気を博し、ブルックスブラザーズの代表的な製品となりました。特にその襟のボタンは、実用性とスタイルを兼ね備えたデザインとして高く評価され、アメリカのビジネスマンの間で広く普及しました。20世紀に入ると、ブルックスブラザーズはアメリカのクラシックなスタイルの象徴としてその地位を確立しました。1920年代には「マディソン・アベニュー・スーツ」を発表し、トラディショナルなアメリカンスタイルを代表するブランドとしての地位を確固たるものにしました。また、1950年代には「アイビー・リーグ・スタイル」のブームに乗り、多くの学生や若者に支持されました。特にボタンダウンシャツは、アイビーリーガーたちの定番アイテムとなり、その人気は現在も続いています。アイビーファッションは日本でも大きな流行を生みました。しかし、21世紀に入りブルックスブラザーズは経営的な困難に直面しました。特に新型コロナウイルスのパンデミックにより2020年7月に破産法第11章の適用を申請しました。その後、米国の投資会社であるサイモン・プロパティ・グループとオーセンティック・ブランズ・グループによって買収され再建が図られています

Polo Ralph Lauren is a brand founded by American designer Ralph Lauren. Its style is always classic and elegant while continuously incorporating modern elements, designed with the philosophy of “providing the highest quality, and pursuing style and classic beauty.” Ralph Lauren’s career began in 1967 when he launched a collection of ties under the name “Polo.” Originally a tie salesman, he entered the fashion industry by creating his own designs. His first tie collection, distinguished by its wider width and rich colors, attracted attention and allowed him to expand his business gradually. In 1969, he secured his own sales space at Bloomingdale’s in New York, and in 1970, he launched his first menswear collection. His designs combined classic British style with American casual wear, characterized by an elegant yet relaxed feel. In 1972, he introduced a collection of polo shirts embroidered with the famous polo player logo on the chest, which quickly became popular. These polo shirts became iconic items for Polo Ralph Lauren, significantly boosting the brand’s recognition. In 1974, Ralph Lauren designed costumes for the film “The Great Gatsby,” further broadening the recognition of his classic and sophisticated style. He also designed costumes for the 1977 film “Animal House,” further embedding casual American style into popular culture.The brand continued to grow, opening its first flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York in the 1980s. Subsequently, it opened an international flagship store in Paris, marking the beginning of Polo Ralph Lauren’s global expansion. Stores were later established in cities like London and Tokyo, solidifying its status as a global brand. In 1997, Ralph Lauren took the company public, listing it on the New York Stock Exchange. This move strengthened the brand’s financial foundation and accelerated its expansion worldwide.

ポロラルフローレン(Polo Ralph Lauren)は、アメリカのデザイナー、ラルフ・ローレンによって創立されたブランドです。そのスタイルは常にクラシックでエレガントでありながら、現代的なエッセンスを取り入れ続け、「最高の品質を提供し、スタイルとクラシックな美を追求する」という理念に基づいてデザインされています。ラルフ・ローレンのキャリアは1967年に「ポロ」の名前でネクタイのコレクションを発表することから始まりました。もともとネクタイの販売員であった彼は、独自のデザインを手掛けることでファッション業界に足を踏み入れました。最初のネクタイコレクションは、他のブランドとは異なる広い幅と豊かな色使いで注目を集め、この成功を受けて事業を次第に拡大していきました。1969年にはニューヨークのブルーミングデールズで独自の売り場を獲得し、1970年には最初のメンズウェアコレクションを発表しました。彼のデザインはクラシックなイギリスのスタイルとアメリカンカジュアルを融合させたもので、エレガントでありながらリラックスした雰囲気が特徴でした。1972年にはポロプレイヤーのロゴを胸に刺繍したポロシャツのコレクションを発表し一躍人気を博しました。このポロシャツはポロラルフローレンの象徴的なアイテムとなりブランドの認知度を大きく高めました。1974年には映画「華麗なるギャツビー」の衣装デザインを手掛け、この仕事によりクラシックで洗練されたスタイルがさらに広く認知されるようになりました。映画「アニマルハウス(1977)」の衣装も担当しカジュアルなアメリカンスタイルをさらに浸透させました。80年代にはニューヨークのマディソン・アベニューに最初のフラッグシップストアをオープン。その後パリにも国際的なフラッグシップストアをオープンしポロラルフローレンの世界的な展開が本格化しました。ロンドンや東京など世界各地にも順に店舗を展開しグローバルなブランドとしての地位を確立しました。1997年ラルフ・ローレンは会社を株式公開しニューヨーク証券取引所に上場しました。これによりブランドの経営基盤はさらに強固なものとなり世界中での事業拡大が加速しました。

Indigo shirts (denim/chambray/dungaree) are iconic items in American fashion and workwear, widely popular for their durability and versatility. The history of indigo shirts dates back to the mid-19th century, spreading among workers during the Gold Rush and westward expansion. Indigo-dyed fabric, known for its robust structure and durability, was especially valued in harsh working conditions. Brands such as Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler significantly contributed to the widespread use of indigo products. Indigo shirts are typically made from 100% cotton. This material is highly resistant to abrasion and can withstand long-term use. Additionally, indigo fabric becomes softer with each wash, improving the fit for individual wearers. Features like button fronts, point collars, chest pockets, and double stitching on the shoulders and sleeves enhance the shirts’ durability and functionality while emphasizing classic American style. These shirts also became popular among cowboys, recognized for their practicality and style, alongside jeans. In the 20th century, indigo shirts evolved from workers’ attire to fashion items. The style gained further popularity in the 1930s when tourists visiting dude ranches (guest ranches) adopted the look. In the 1950s, movie stars like James Dean and Marlon Brando wore denim shirts, solidifying their status as symbols of youth culture. From the 1960s to the 1970s, indigo shirts garnered more support as symbols of freedom and anti-establishment, influenced by counterculture and the hippie movement.
The history of Levi’s is synonymous with the history of American jeans. Levi Strauss, the founder of Levi’s, was born in 1829 in Bavaria, Germany. He immigrated to America in 1847 and, in 1853, started a wholesale business in San Francisco with his brothers. At that time, California was rapidly developing due to the Gold Rush, and Levi recognized the demand for durable workwear for miners and laborers. In 1872, he received a letter from Jacob Davis, a tailor from Reno, Nevada, who proposed patenting his idea of using rivets to reinforce the corners of pants pockets. On May 20, 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis were granted a patent for using rivets in “waist overalls” (now known as jeans). This date is officially recognized as the birth of Levi’s jeans. Levi’s jeans quickly gained popularity among miners, railroad workers, cowboys, and others in demanding professions. The durable denim fabric and rivet reinforcements were highly valued for their toughness and functionality. In 1890, the model number “501XX” was first introduced, marking the origin of the iconic “501” jeans.As the 20th century began, Levi’s evolved from workwear to a fashion item. In the 1930s, Western films popularized jeans as part of the cowboy style. During the 1940s, American soldiers brought jeans to Europe during World War II, increasing their international recognition. After the war, Levi’s jeans became a symbol of youth culture. In the 1950s, movie stars like James Dean and Marlon Brando wore Levi’s, solidifying their status as a symbol of rebellion. From the 1960s through the 1970s, the hippie movement and counterculture further embraced Levi’s jeans, seeing them as symbols of freedom and anti-establishment sentiments.
Lee was founded in 1889 by Henry David Lee in Salina, Kansas. Initially, the company was engaged in the wholesale distribution of groceries and other essentials. However, recognizing the growing demand for durable workwear, Lee entered the garment industry in 1911, releasing its first overalls and work jackets. One of Lee’s major innovations was the introduction of the Union-All (a one-piece coverall) in 1913. This product was designed to protect workers’ clothing and quickly became popular, establishing Lee’s reputation as a leading workwear manufacturer. Additionally, in 1926, Lee was the first to introduce the zipper fly in jeans, enhancing practicality and comfort.Lee’s iconic product, the “101” Cowboy Pants, was launched in the 1920s. These jeans were specially designed for cowboys and rodeo riders, featuring a high waist and robust construction. This product solidified Lee’s reputation for producing durable, high-quality denim products. During World War II, Lee manufactured military blankets and uniform fabrics. After the war, the company expanded its product line to include casual wear. In the 1950s, Lee introduced the “Lee Riders” line, which became immensely popular among young people. Hollywood stars and musicians, particularly James Dean and Marilyn Monroe, wore Lee jeans, further elevating the brand’s status.In the 1970s, Lee introduced pre-shrunk denim, ensuring consistent sizing and improving fit. This period also saw the brand’s international expansion, gaining popularity in markets such as Europe.
The Blue Bell Company, the parent company of Wrangler, has played a significant role in the development of workwear and denim products in the United States. In 1897, 20-year-old C.C. Hudson left Spring Hill Farm in Williamson County, Tennessee, seeking fortune in the emerging textile town of Greensboro, North Carolina. He found work in an overall factory, sewing buttons for 25 cents a day. However, in 1904, his workplace closed. C.C. Hudson and a few colleagues bought several sewing machines and, along with his brother Homer, established the Hudson Overall Company in a loft above Coe Brothers Grocery on South Elm Street in Greensboro. By 1919, sales of Hudson overalls were booming, prompting the company to move to larger headquarters and change its name to Blue Bell Overall Company. In 1926, Big Ben Manufacturing of Kentucky purchased Blue Bell, and the merged company retained the Blue Bell name, with headquarters remaining in Greensboro. In 1936, Blue Bell introduced the “Super Big Ben Overalls,” featuring 100% Sanforized fabric that reduced shrinkage to less than 1%, setting a new industry standard.In 1943, Blue Bell acquired the Casey Jones Company, gaining the rights to the rarely used brand name “Wrangler.” In 1947, Wrangler authentic western jeans, designed by renowned tailor Rodeo Ben, were introduced to American consumers. Professional rodeo cowboys tested the “13MWZ” jeans and endorsed Wrangler for their durability, quality, and authenticity. In 1948, world champion cowboy Jim Shoulders signed on as an official endorser of Wrangler, eventually winning 16 world championships. In 1974, Wrangler jeans and shirts became the first, and still only, western wear brand to be officially endorsed by the Pro Rodeo Cowboy Association. In 1986, Blue Bell merged with VF Corporation of Pennsylvania, making VF one of the largest jeans manufacturers in the world.
ラングラー(Wrangler)の親会社であったブルーベルカンパニー(Blue Bell Company)はアメリカのワークウェアおよびデニム製品の発展において重要な役割を果たしてきました。1897年、20歳のC.C.ハドソンはテネシー州ウィリアムソン郡のスプリングヒルファームを離れ新興の繊維産業都市であるノースカロライナ州グリーンズボロで幸運を掴もうとしました。彼はオーバーオール工場で25セントの日給でボタンを縫う仕事を見つけました。しかし、1904年にその職場が閉鎖されると、C.C.ハドソンと数人の同僚は何台かのミシンを購入し、ハドソンの兄弟ホーマーと共にグリーンズボロのサウスエルムストリートのコー兄弟の食料品店の上にあるロフトでハドソンオーバーオールカンパニーを設立しました。1919年までに、ハドソンのオーバーオールの販売は好調で、会社はより大きな本社に移転し、社名をブルーベルオーバーオールカンパニーに変更しました。1926年には、ケンタッキー州のビッグベンマニュファクチャリングがブルーベルを買収し、合併後の会社名はブルーベルのまま、本社もグリーンズボロに残りました。1936年、ブルーベルは100%サンフォライズド加工された生地を使用した「スーパー・ビッグ・ベン・オーバーオール」を導入し、縮み率を1%未満に抑えることで業界の新基準を打ち立てました。1943年には、ブルーベルはケースィー・ジョーンズ・カンパニーを買収し、その結果、稀に使用されていたブランド名「ラングラー」の権利を取得しました。1947年、著名な仕立て屋ロデオ・ベンによってデザインされた本物の西部ジーンズ「ラングラー」がアメリカの消費者に紹介されました。プロのロデオカウボーイが「13MWZ」を試着しその耐久性、品質、真実性を評価してラングラーを支持しました。1948年世界チャンピオンカウボーイのジム・ショルダーズがラングラーの公式支持者として契約し彼はその後16回の世界チャンピオンを獲得しました。1974年にはラングラーのジーンズとシャツはプロロデオカウボーイ協会によって公式に認定された唯一の西部服ブランドとなりました。1986年には、ブルーベルはペンシルベニア州のVFコーポレーションと合併し、VFは世界最大級のジーンズメーカーの一つとなりました。
Hunting shirts are essential items for American outdoor activities, particularly hunting, where durability and functionality are paramount. Wool and chamois fabric (cotton flannel) hunting shirts hold significant places in the history of American outdoor wear. Wool hunting shirts became popular from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Wool was ideal for hunting and outdoor activities in cold climates due to its excellent insulation and durability. The natural water resistance of wool also provided a crucial advantage for activities in rain and snow. Wool hunting shirts are known for their sturdy construction, often featuring double stitching and reinforced elbow patches, allowing them to withstand harsh conditions for extended periods. Classic check patterns or solid colors are common, with Pendleton and Filson being notable brands for hunting shirts. Chamois fabric, especially cotton flannel hunting shirts, is also highly popular. Chamois fabric refers to smooth, soft, napped cotton flannel, offering a pleasant texture and high comfort. This fabric became widespread in America from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Chamois hunting shirts provide excellent insulation, combining softness and comfort with good breathability and ease of movement, keeping the wearer warm in cold weather. They are also easy to wash, making them suitable for everyday wear. L.L.Bean’s chamois shirts are particularly well-known examples in this category. Wool shirts excel in durability and insulation, making them suitable for harsh environments. In contrast, chamois fabric (cotton flannel) shirts offer a soft, comfortable feel and ease of use, making them ideal for everyday wear. Both types of shirts continue to be beloved symbols of American outdoor culture.
The history of L.L.Bean begins in 1912 when Leon Leonwood Bean established the company in Freeport, Maine. Bean was an avid outdoorsman and hunter who recognized the need for boots that could withstand the harsh Maine weather. He developed the “Maine Hunting Shoe,” combining a rubber bottom with a leather upper. This boot offered both waterproof protection and comfort, making it ideal for outdoor activities. Bean started with just 100 pairs of boots, but he was confident in their quality and offered a satisfaction guarantee. However, 90 of the initial pairs had defects, leading to full refunds. Bean promptly addressed the issues and sent out a new batch of boots. This commitment to customer service became a hallmark of L.L.Bean. The business grew through catalog sales, with Bean choosing to sell directly to customers by showcasing products in catalogs and shipping them by mail. This model proved successful, and L.L.Bean gradually expanded its product line. By the 1930s, the company was offering a wide range of outdoor gear, including clothing and camping equipment. During this period, the chamois shirt was introduced, made from soft and warm flannel material, becoming popular for fall and winter outdoor activities. During World War II, L.L.Bean supplied products to the military. After the war, Bean continued to expand the business, and in the 1950s, the Freeport flagship store began operating 24 hours a day, a unique service that continues to this day and has become a symbol of L.L.Bean. From the 1960s to the 1970s, L.L.Bean experienced further growth and became known both domestically and internationally. By the 1980s, the company had solidified its position as a leader in outdoor gear, especially praised for its canoes, camping equipment, and mountaineering gear. L.L.Bean has also been dedicated to environmental conservation and social responsibility, making significant donations to nature conservation organizations and educational programs, continuing to contribute to the community.
L.L.Beanの歴史は、1912年にレオン・レオンウッド・ビーン(Leon Leonwood Bean)がアメリカのメイン州フリーポートで設立したことに始まります。ビーンは、狩猟を愛するアウトドアマンであり、メイン州の厳しい気候に耐えうるブーツが必要だと感じました。そこで、彼はラバー素材のボトムとレザー素材のアッパーを組み合わせた「メイン・ハンティング・シュー」を開発しました。このブーツは、防水性と快適性を兼ね備え、アウトドア活動に最適なものでした。最初の製品はたった100足でしたが、品質に自信を持っていたビーンは満足保証をつけて販売しました。しかし、最初のロットでは90足が欠陥品だったため、全額返金となりました。ビーンはすぐに問題を修正し、再びブーツを製造して送り出しました。これがL.L.Beanの顧客サービスに対する揺るぎないコミットメントの始まりでした。ビーンのビジネスは、カタログ販売を通じて成長していきました。彼は顧客に直接販売することを選び、カタログを通じて製品を紹介し、郵送で販売しました。このモデルは成功し、L.L.Beanは徐々にその製品ラインを拡大していきました。1930年代には、衣類やキャンプ用品など、アウトドアに必要なアイテム全般を取り扱うようになりました。この時期に登場したシャモアシャツは、柔らかく温かいフランネル素材で作られ、特に秋冬のアウトドア活動に人気があります。第二次世界大戦中、L.L.Beanは軍隊向けに製品を供給しました。戦後、ビーンは事業を拡大し続け、1950年代にはフリーポートの本店が24時間営業を開始しました。このユニークなサービスは、今日でも続けられており、L.L.Beanの象徴となっています。1960年代から1970年代にかけて、L.L.Beanはさらなる成長を遂げ、アメリカ国内外にその名を知られるようになりました。1980年代には、アウトドア用品のリーダーとしての地位を確立し、特にカヌーやキャンプ用品、登山用具などで高い評価を得ました。L.L.Beanはまた、環境保護と社会貢献にも力を入れ、自然保護団体や教育プログラムに多額の寄付を行い、地域社会への貢献を続けています。

The history of Pendleton is rooted in a long tradition as an American wool products manufacturer. The company was founded in 1863 by Thomas Kay in Oregon. Kay, who had emigrated from England, brought wool weaving technology to America. His grandsons took over the business and established a woolen mill in Pendleton in 1909, marking the beginning of Pendleton Woolen Mills.Pendleton is renowned for designs inspired by Native American culture. From its early days, the company collaborated with Native American tribes to create blankets featuring their traditional patterns and colors. These blankets were highly valued for tribal ceremonies and as gifts, enhancing Pendleton’s reputation.

In 1924, Pendleton produced its first men’s wool shirt. This shirt, made from high-quality wool, became especially popular among outdoor enthusiasts. Known as the “board shirt,” it was widely adopted by cowboys, loggers, surfers, and a diverse range of people. During World War II, Pendleton contributed by supplying military blankets and uniform fabrics. After the war, the company expanded its product line to include women’s apparel. In the 1950s, Pendleton introduced the iconic “Pendleton Twin Set,” which became a major success. Pendleton also launched the “Beaver State Motor Robe” outdoor blanket in the 1960s, which became popular for camping and picnicking, further embedding itself in American outdoor culture. Today, Pendleton remains a family-owned business committed to quality and tradition. The company offers a wide range of products, including blankets, shirts, apparel, and accessories, solidifying its status as an American heritage brand. Pendleton’s products, with their unique designs and high quality, continue to be beloved by fans around the world.


The Aloha shirt is an open-collared shirt made from fabrics such as silk, rayon, polyester, and cotton, dyed in bright and colorful hues with tropical motifs like pineapples and hula dancers, or oriental motifs like goldfish and tigers. “Aloha” is a Hawaiian word that means “affection,” “love,” “compassion,” “kindness,” and “greeting.” Because the term “Aloha shirt” was trademarked, it is sometimes referred to as a “Hawaiian shirt.” From the mid-1930s, as Hawaii rapidly developed as a resort destination, Aloha shirts began to be produced as resort wear or souvenirs. The origin of Aloha shirts is said to be derived from Japanese kimonos. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Japanese immigrants working in the sugar plantations adopted the palaka, an open-collared shirt worn by European sailors, because it resembled Japanese cotton kasuri. They repurposed their kimonos into palaka-style shirts, which is said to be the beginning of Aloha shirts. Another theory suggests that local people were attracted to the beauty of Japanese kimonos and asked for them to be made into shirts. On June 28, 1935, the term “Aloha shirt” first appeared in an advertisement by the Honolulu clothing store Musashiya Shoten in the Honolulu Advertiser. Musashiya Shoten was founded in 1904 by Chotaro Miyamoto, who made shirts using Japanese fabric. After his death in 1915, his son Koichiro returned to Hawaii and renamed the store “Musashiya Shoten” (Japanese: 武蔵屋呉服店). In 1936, Chinese merchant Ellery J. Chun applied for trademarks for “Aloha Sportswear” and “Aloha Shirt” the following year, and was granted exclusive rights for 20 years.

Initially, Aloha shirts were made from silk, but rayon became the primary material by the 1950s, and polyester emerged in the 1960s. The recent vintage boom has brought back materials like silk and rayon. Since Hawaii lacked the intricate and colorful dyeing facilities for these fabrics, most of the materials were imported from the mainland United States or Japan. Especially in Japan, dyeing factories with advanced techniques, centered around Kyoto, supplied high-quality fabrics cheaply and in small lots. The buttons on Aloha shirts are often made from coconut or palm wood, with vintage pieces sometimes featuring expensive materials. Some classify shirts with plastic buttons as “print shirts” or “Aloha-style shirts,” though most shops in Japan do not adhere to this distinction. Bamboo, shell, and metal buttons are also used to create a vintage feel. In the 1950s, the production of Aloha shirts became Hawaii’s third-largest industry after sugar and pineapples, marking the golden age of Aloha shirts.

アロハシャツ(Aloha shirt)は、パイナップルやフラダンサーなどのトロピカルなモチーフや、金魚、虎などのオリエンタルなモチーフをカラフルに染めたシルク、レーヨン、ポリエステル、綿などで作られる開襟シャツです。「Aloha」(アロハ)はハワイ語で「好意」「愛情」「慈悲」「優しい気持ち」「挨拶」などの意味があります。「アロハシャツ」の呼称が商標登録されていたため、ハワイアンシャツと呼ぶこともあります。1930年代中頃からリゾート地として発展したハワイで、リゾートウェアやハワイみやげとして作られるようになりました。アロハシャツの起源は日本の和服に由来します。19世紀末から20世紀初頭にかけて、シュガープラント農業に従事していた日本移民は、ヨーロッパの船員が着ていた開襟シャツ(パラカ)を愛用し、持参した着物をパラカ風に仕立て直したのがアロハシャツの始まりと言われています。また、現地の人が日本の着物の美しさに惹かれ、「着物をシャツにしてくれ」と頼んだという説もあります。1935年、ホノルルの服飾店「ムサシヤ・ショーテン」がホノルル・アドバタイザーに掲出した広告で「アロハシャツ」という言葉が初めて登場しました。ムサシヤ・ショーテンは1904年に宮本長太郎によって創業され、日本の反物を使ってシャツを作る会社でした。1936年には中国系商人のエラリー・J・チャンが「アロハスポーツウェア」、翌年に「アロハシャツ」の商標登録を申請し、20年間の独占利用が認められました。


Reyn Spooner is a traditional Hawaiian aloha shirt brand established in 1956, with a history and features that are very intriguing. The brand’s founder, Reyn McCullough, initially operated a surf shop in California. In the mid-1950s, he moved to Hawaii and started his business there. Initially, he focused mainly on manufacturing swimwear but was inspired by Hawaii’s unique culture and nature to begin producing aloha shirts. Meanwhile, Ruth Spooner, a local seamstress, was also creating unique aloha shirts. Impressed by her skills and designs, Reyn McCullough collaborated with her to launch a new brand. Thus, Reyn Spooner was born. One of the distinctive features of Reyn Spooner is the reverse print technique. This technique involves printing the fabric inside out, resulting in a muted color palette and a soft feel. This approach gives the aloha shirts a casual yet refined look. Additionally, the reverse print is highly durable and resistant to fading, allowing Reyn Spooner shirts to be long-lasting. Furthermore, Reyn Spooner is known for incorporating contemporary elements into traditional Hawaiian designs. The brand continually introduces new designs, setting different themes for each season’s collection. This blend of tradition and modernity creates a unique style that stands out.
Reyn Spoonerは、1956年に設立されたハワイの伝統的なアロハシャツブランドであり、その歴史と特徴は非常に興味深いものです。ブランドの創設者はReyn McCulloughで、彼はカリフォルニア州でサーフショップを経営していました。1950年代半ばにハワイに移り住み、そこでビジネスを始めました。当初は水着の製造を主に行っていましたが、ハワイの独特な文化と自然に触発され、アロハシャツの製造に着手しました。一方、Ruth Spoonerという地元の仕立て屋もまた、ユニークなアロハシャツを製造していました。Reyn McCulloughは彼女の技術とデザインに感銘を受け、二人は協力して新しいブランドを立ち上げることにしました。こうしてReyn Spoonerというブランドが誕生しました。Reyn Spoonerの特徴の一つは、リバースプリント(裏地プリント)と呼ばれる技術です。この技術は、シャツの生地を裏返しにしてプリントすることで、落ち着いた色合いと柔らかい手触りを実現しています。これにより、アロハシャツはよりカジュアルでありながら上品な印象を与えることができます。また、このリバースプリントは耐久性にも優れており、色あせしにくいのが特徴です。これにより、Reyn Spoonerのシャツは長く愛用することができます。さらに、Reyn Spoonerは伝統的なハワイアンデザインに現代的な要素を取り入れることでも知られています。ブランドは常に新しいデザインを取り入れ、季節ごとに異なるテーマを設定してコレクションを発表しています。これにより、伝統とモダンが融合したユニークなスタイルを提供しています。


December – 2023 15 MINS READ
One of the things I find strange about old paintings, especially portraits, is the ‘ruffled collar.’ It is a symbol of wealth and aristocratic splendor, but like the corset, it is also a very peculiar design. Why did it become so popular? This section studies it.Do you find this peculiar, or do you consider it noble?