2023
Why are shirts "made in Naples" the most beautiful in the world?
Naples has a long history of textile production, dating back to the medieval period. The city has been a center for high-quality fabrics and clothing for centuries, and many of the artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations are still used today. Neapolitan shirtmakers are known for their meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality. They use only the finest materials, including the highest-quality cotton, silk, and linen, and often employ traditional hand-stitching techniques that ensure a perfect fit.
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
Cotton is a fabulous fibre !
Cotton is a soft, versatile, and durable natural fiber that can be used for clothing, bedding, medical products, and industrial goods. It is highly absorbent, comfortable, and regulates body temperature. Cotton is also a sustainable crop that requires relatively low amounts of water and pesticides compared to other crops. Its cultural significance and economic importance make it an indispensable material in our daily lives.
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
What is the "Turnbull Cut" means
Turnbull & Asser, the world’s most famous and legendary shirt maker, is one of the oldest and most respected British companies. Its name has always meant shirts of the highest quality in the world of men’s fashion.And they have their own collar form. And English gentlemen love it. Here we introduce what the traditional “Turnbull Cut” collar.
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
The history of sheep breeding.
Sheep breeding began around 11,000 years ago for wool and meat. Selective breeding led to different breeds adapted to different environments and purposes. The Industrial Revolution led to increased demand for wool and the development of specialized breeds.
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Uniqlo is the world's largest producer of button-down shirts.
UNIQLO is probably the best-selling ‘button-down’ shirt in the world. This is because they are the best-selling standard men’s shirt at UNIQLO. But would you still choose an American-made original? Or would you choose UNIQLO? In this chapter, we compare their shirts.
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
My favourite linen fine stories.
Linen is a fabric that has been used for clothing, bedding, and other household items for thousands of years. The earliest evidence of linen production dates back to around 4,000 BCE in Egypt, where the fabric was used for clothing and burial shrouds.Linen was highly valued in ancient societies for its coolness, durability, and luxurious appearance. It was also used for sailcloth, and the linen sails of ancient Phoenician ships were highly prized for their strength and ability to catch the wind.
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
Pinch out the dough from the slashing.
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
Liberty & co with William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement.
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural collaborators. Morris’s designs were an important part of the Liberty & Co. product line, and they helped to establish the company’s reputation for innovative, high-quality textile design.
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
Who invented the button-down ?
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
The world's best cotton has disappeared
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
The DEMI DECONSTRUCTION 『半分解展』 Vol.1
Today, we’re going to explore the history of clothing from a unique perspective. Over in Tokyo, there’s this fascinating exhibition called the “DEMI DECONSTRUCTION = Half Decomposition Exhibition 半分解展 ” by a chap called Mr Akiyoshi Hasegawa, who’s a garment specimenist. He showcases his expertise by deconstructing over a century-old piece of clothing by snapping it in half to examine its structure and shape. Now, I know this may seem unrelated to shirts, but I invite you to immerse yourself in the dynamic shifts of fashion that have taken place throughout history. It’s been a bumpy ride, but one that’s worth exploring.
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
What is the paisley pattern?
Where did the paisley pattern come from? The paisley pattern can be attributed to several theories when tracing its origins. Which is the correct one? And did you know that the name paisley also has nothing specific to do with the pattern?
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
What is the Difference Between Denim, Chambray & Dungarees?
Do you know the difference between denim, chambray and dungaree? These fabrics, which are very similar, have differences in the way they are made and their history. This section studies those differences.
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
RENÉ LACOSTE: HIS TRUE HISTORY
Lacoste is the most famous polo shirt brand in the world. How has this French brand been created? And what was tennis players RENÉ LACOSTE live through? Here we study the world’s best polo shirt – Lacoste.
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
OGURA FABRICS - JAPANESE SILK JACQUARD FACTORY
Japan was once the world’s largest silk exporter. However, nowadays it produces almost no silk, and there are only a few places that still manufacture silk fabrics using traditional methods. I traveled to Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture to visit these remaining factories.
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Film: Preston's cotton industry(1920)
Admire the industrious, nimble-fingered cotton workers at the monumental Horrockses, Crewdson & Co cotton factory in the film Cotton Industry, Preston (1920). Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. was a textile company based in Preston, Lancashire. The company was originally formed in 1791 under the name of Horrocks. Over the centuries, the name of the company changed with the involvement of various business partners and when the company merged with others.Take a look at this rare video of the factory at that time.©british filminstitute
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
The history of "Cone denim" up until its bankruptcy
If you like “Jeans”, you have probably heard of the denim fabric made by the Cone company. The Cone Mills Corporation was an American textile manufacturing company. It produced cotton fabrics such as corduroy, flannel and denim. Headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003; it was bought out in 2004 and its last White Oak mill closed.
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
OG-108 / BLANKET SHIRT WORN BY MARILYN MONROE
Marilyn Monroe came to South Korea in February of 1954 while honeymooning in Tokyo with Joe DiMaggio as part of the USO entertainment during the Korean War. Her visit served as an inspiration to soldiers, and when her helicopter touched down and she stepped onto the base, the whole atmosphere changed.The shirt she was wearing was an “OG-108,” which the soldiers called a blanket shirt. (It means a shirt made of thick fabric like a blanket.)
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
"FUSTIAN" THE STARTING THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Do you know the name of the fabric “fustian”? It is not a well-known name today, but it is actually a very important material for the Industrial Revolution, as well as for its long history. The term “fustian” varies from period to period, as there are several combinations of materials used in different periods. In this issue, we will study the relationship between “fustian” and the Industrial Revolution.
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
THE LOST PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS / VINTAGE TAGS
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
You will no longer be able to get your hands on a Pendleton shirt. Some would argue that this is not true. To be precise, Pendleton shirts and trousers will still be in the shops every winter. T-shirts with the logo may even be on sale. However, they are licensed products produced in Asia. Whether that is genuine or fake depends on the person. But I feel that only shirts made in the USA on American-made Pendleton fabric and sewn in the USA have any meaning.
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
TUNIC : WHAT DID VIKINGS (GERMANIC PEOPLE) WEAR?
My research is taking a step back to the basics. I have recently been studying the relatively modern period of the 1800s and 1900s, but I believe that a solid foundation in the history of the shirt begins with the tunic , chiton and toga etc. However, as underwear is not as common in warmer regions, I would like to focus my research on clothing from northern regions this time.This research will surely lead to shirts as underwear.
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
ABOUT THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
We tend to focus on ‘invention’ and ‘population’ when talking about the Industrial Revolution. But we must know that history does not happen from those dots, but from a number of multiple factors. We will discuss the most important ‘invention’ in final chapter. Before that, let’s get to know the historical background that happened around it and follow the history of why the Industrial Revolution was able to become a thing in the UK.
August – 2023 30 MINS READ
What is the flannel ? VOl.1
Flannel fabric is a warm and comfortable material that is perfect for chilly seasons. It has a unique texture that feels soft and inviting against the skin. Flannel fabric also offers exceptional insulation, making it a great choice for keeping warm in cold weather. Whether you are looking for a cozy shirt to wear on a cold day or a stylish to wear out on the town, flannel fabric is a great option.In this issue, we take a look at the history of flannel and its secrets.
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
COMBED AND SPUN WOOL / WORSTED AND WOOLEN
Understanding the difference between “combed(worsted)” and “spun(woolen)” is one of the most difficult things for a layman to grasp when they first start learning about yarn. It took me a long time to understand the difference myself, perhaps because I didn’t have any yarn to experiment with. Without any yarn to see and touch, it can be difficult to understand how it is made. The same is true for other materials, but wool is particularly challenging to understand. However, it is surprising how little-known it is that wool has been a necessity in human life since before Christ. Let’s study the very first part of this story together.
September – 2023 20 MINS READ
POPO / NATURAL SHIRT
I met him about a year ago. I like his seriousness and hard work. His customers seem to be inspired by his work ethic, and orders are constantly coming in. I can’t wear his shirts or dresses(because for women) , but they look very natural and gentle. They seem to reflect his character. Our reporting team visited his workshop.
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
