2023
Why are shirts "made in Naples" the most beautiful in the world?
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
Naples has a long history of textile production, dating back to the medieval period. The city has been a center for high-quality fabrics and clothing for centuries, and many of the artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations are still used today. Neapolitan shirtmakers are known for their meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality. They use only the finest materials, including the highest-quality cotton, silk, and linen, and often employ traditional hand-stitching techniques that ensure a perfect fit.
Cotton is a fabulous fibre !
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
Cotton is a soft, versatile, and durable natural fiber that can be used for clothing, bedding, medical products, and industrial goods. It is highly absorbent, comfortable, and regulates body temperature. Cotton is also a sustainable crop that requires relatively low amounts of water and pesticides compared to other crops. Its cultural significance and economic importance make it an indispensable material in our daily lives.
What is the "Turnbull Cut" means
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Turnbull & Asser, the world’s most famous and legendary shirt maker, is one of the oldest and most respected British companies. Its name has always meant shirts of the highest quality in the world of men’s fashion.And they have their own collar form. And English gentlemen love it. Here we introduce what the traditional “Turnbull Cut” collar.
The history of sheep breeding
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Sheep breeding began around 11,000 years ago for wool and meat. Selective breeding led to different breeds adapted to different environments and purposes. The Industrial Revolution led to increased demand for wool and the development of specialized breeds.
Uniqlo is the world's largest producer of button-down shirts.
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
UNIQLO is probably the best-selling ‘button-down’ shirt in the world. This is because they are the best-selling standard men’s shirt at UNIQLO. But would you still choose an American-made original? Or would you choose UNIQLO? In this chapter, we compare their shirts.
My favourite linen fine stories.
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
Linen is a fabric that has been used for clothing, bedding, and other household items for thousands of years. The earliest evidence of linen production dates back to around 4,000 BCE in Egypt, where the fabric was used for clothing and burial shrouds.Linen was highly valued in ancient societies for its coolness, durability, and luxurious appearance. It was also used for sailcloth, and the linen sails of ancient Phoenician ships were highly prized for their strength and ability to catch the wind.
Pinch out the dough from the slashing
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
Liberty & co with William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement.
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural collaborators. Morris’s designs were an important part of the Liberty & Co. product line, and they helped to establish the company’s reputation for innovative, high-quality textile design.
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
Who invented the button-down ?
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
The world's best cotton has disappeared
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.
The DEMI DECONSTRUCTION 『半分解展』
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
Today, we’re going to explore the history of clothing from a unique perspective. Over in Tokyo, there’s this fascinating exhibition called the “DEMI DECONSTRUCTION = Half Decomposition Exhibition 半分解展 ” by a chap called Mr Akiyoshi Hasegawa, who’s a garment specimenist. He showcases his expertise by deconstructing over a century-old piece of clothing by snapping it in half to examine its structure and shape. Now, I know this may seem unrelated to shirts, but I invite you to immerse yourself in the dynamic shifts of fashion that have taken place throughout history. It’s been a bumpy ride, but one that’s worth exploring.
What is the paisley pattern?
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Where did the paisley pattern come from? The paisley pattern can be attributed to several theories when tracing its origins. Which is the correct one? And did you know that the name paisley also has nothing specific to do with the pattern?
What is the Difference Between Denim, Chambray & Dungarees?
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Do you know the difference between denim, chambray and dungaree? These fabrics, which are very similar, have differences in the way they are made and their history. This section studies those differences.
RENÉ LACOSTE: HIS TRUE HISTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Lacoste is the most famous polo shirt brand in the world. How has this French brand been created? And what was tennis players RENÉ LACOSTE live through? Here we study the world’s best polo shirt – Lacoste.
OGURA FABRICS - JAPANESE SILK JACQUARD FACTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Japan was once the world’s largest silk exporter. However, nowadays it produces almost no silk, and there are only a few places that still manufacture silk fabrics using traditional methods. I traveled to Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture to visit these remaining factories.
Film: Preston's cotton industry(1920)
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Admire the industrious, nimble-fingered cotton workers at the monumental Horrockses, Crewdson & Co cotton factory in the film Cotton Industry, Preston (1920). Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. was a textile company based in Preston, Lancashire. The company was originally formed in 1791 under the name of Horrocks. Over the centuries, the name of the company changed with the involvement of various business partners and when the company merged with others.Take a look at this rare video of the factory at that time.©british filminstitute
The history of "Cone denim" up until its bankruptcy
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
If you like “Jeans”, you have probably heard of the denim fabric made by the Cone company. The Cone Mills Corporation was an American textile manufacturing company. It produced cotton fabrics such as corduroy, flannel and denim. Headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003; it was bought out in 2004 and its last White Oak mill closed.
OG-108 / BLANKET SHIRT WORN BY MARILYN MONROE
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Marilyn Monroe came to South Korea in February of 1954 while honeymooning in Tokyo with Joe DiMaggio as part of the USO entertainment during the Korean War. Her visit served as an inspiration to soldiers, and when her helicopter touched down and she stepped onto the base, the whole atmosphere changed.The shirt she was wearing was an “OG-108,” which the soldiers called a blanket shirt. (It means a shirt made of thick fabric like a blanket.)
FUSTIAN
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Do you know the name of the fabric “fustian”? It is not a well-known name today, but it is actually a very important material for the Industrial Revolution, as well as for its long history. The term “fustian” varies from period to period, as there are several combinations of materials used in different periods. In this issue, we will study the relationship between “fustian” and the Industrial Revolution.
THE LOST PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS / VINTAGE TAGS
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
You will no longer be able to get your hands on a Pendleton shirt. Some would argue that this is not true. To be precise, Pendleton shirts and trousers will still be in the shops every winter. T-shirts with the logo may even be on sale. However, they are licensed products produced in Asia. Whether that is genuine or fake depends on the person. But I feel that only shirts made in the USA on American-made Pendleton fabric and sewn in the USA have any meaning.
TUNIC : WHAT DID VIKINGS (GERMANIC PEOPLE) WEAR?
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
My research is taking a step back to the basics. I have recently been studying the relatively modern period of the 1800s and 1900s, but I believe that a solid foundation in the history of the shirt begins with the tunic , chiton and toga etc. However, as underwear is not as common in warmer regions, I would like to focus my research on clothing from northern regions this time.This research will surely lead to shirts as underwear.
ABOUT THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
August – 2023 30 MINS READ
We tend to focus on ‘invention’ and ‘population’ when talking about the Industrial Revolution. But we must know that history does not happen from those dots, but from a number of multiple factors. We will discuss the most important ‘invention’ in final chapter. Before that, let’s get to know the historical background that happened around it and follow the history of why the Industrial Revolution was able to become a thing in the UK.
What is the flannel ? VOl.1
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
Flannel fabric is a warm and comfortable material that is perfect for chilly seasons. It has a unique texture that feels soft and inviting against the skin. Flannel fabric also offers exceptional insulation, making it a great choice for keeping warm in cold weather. Whether you are looking for a cozy shirt to wear on a cold day or a stylish to wear out on the town, flannel fabric is a great option.In this issue, we take a look at the history of flannel and its secrets.
COMBED AND SPUN WOOL / WORSTED AND WOOLEN
September – 2023 20 MINS READ
Understanding the difference between “combed(worsted)” and “spun(woolen)” is one of the most difficult things for a layman to grasp when they first start learning about yarn. It took me a long time to understand the difference myself, perhaps because I didn’t have any yarn to experiment with. Without any yarn to see and touch, it can be difficult to understand how it is made. The same is true for other materials, but wool is particularly challenging to understand. However, it is surprising how little-known it is that wool has been a necessity in human life since before Christ. Let’s study the very first part of this story together.
POPO / NATURAL SHIRT
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
I met him about a year ago. I like his seriousness and hard work. His customers seem to be inspired by his work ethic, and orders are constantly coming in. I can’t wear his shirts or dresses(because for women) , but they look very natural and gentle. They seem to reflect his character. Our reporting team visited his workshop.
CANTON FLANNEL / CIVIL WAR
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
Flannel is of course the most developed fabric in Europe, but the culture of producing textiles itself has developed all over the world. Textiles were raised all over the world because they were warm wear and made ideal underwear. During the American Civil War, flannel was widely used. After the devastation of Europe after World War I, many Asian (Chinese and Japanese) textiles were exported to the booming United States. In this issue, we will study Cantonese flannel, which was regarded as the best of the best.
THE WORLD OLDEST TARTAN
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
The earliest surviving sample of tartan fabric was found in a cemetery in the Tarim Basin, China. It dates back to around 1200 B.C. and is made of kemp, the coarse outer hair of a sheep or goat. The fabric is similar to Scottish tartan of the 17th century, suggesting that these two cultures may have had a common ancestor.It means that the tartan also crossed over to the east. Let’s look at a piece of history.
Why Scots love KILT: TARTAN VOL.1
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
Scotland has a traditional cloth called tartan, which is made of wool and has a checkered pattern. Tartan is a symbol of Scottish pride and culture, and is still loved by many people today.Tartan is a type of woolen cloth with a checkered pattern. It is traditionally associated with Scottish clans, and each clan has its own unique tartan pattern. Kilts are made from tartan, and they are a traditional Scottish garment. Tartan has a long history, dating back to the 16th century in the Highlands. Originally, tartan was a symbol of Highland clans, but it eventually became a symbol of Scotland as a whole. However, in the 18th century, Scotland came under British rule, and tartan was banned, leading to its decline. After the ban was lifted in 1782, tartan began to be seen again. During World War I, Scottish soldiers were known for their bravery, and were even called “The Ladies of the Battlefield” by the German army. Today, tartan is used in a variety of ways, including as traditional clothing, fashion, and other items. It is loved all over the world.
THE TRUE HISTORY OF L.L.BEAN / VINTAGE TAGS
OCTOBER – 2023 20 MINS READ
“L.L.Bean” is a leading American brand. It is also my favorite brand. It is an integral part of the history of hunting and outdoor activities. The Maine Jacket, the Chamois Shirt and the Maine Hunting Boots are their signature products. But I have my doubts about the brand. Look back in history and study the old tags.
RUFF : DECORAQTIVE COLLARS
December – 2023 15 MINS READ
One of the things I find strange about old paintings, especially portraits, is the ‘ruffled collar.’ It is a symbol of wealth and aristocratic splendor, but like the corset, it is also a very peculiar design. Why did it become so popular? This section studies it.
THE PICTS
December – 2023 15 MINS READ
Exploring the Hidden History and Culture of the Ancient Picts of Scotland: From the Meaning Behind Their Tattoos to Their Lost Language and Mysterious Stone Carvings – A Journey into the Lives, Beliefs, and Enigmatic Monuments and Art Left by the Picts. Unraveling Their Connections with the Celts and Their Conflicts with the Roman Empire, and Examining How the Legacy of the Picts Influences Modern Scotland.
Understanding the entire formation of the Kingdom of Scotland is essential before discussing “tartan,” a symbol deeply intertwined with Scottish identity and heritage.
2024
EXPLORING KING DAVID & SOLOMON'S ANCIENT WARDROBES
January – 2024 20 MINS READ
As we enter the year 2024, I find myself contemplating. The current religious conflicts are not the world I desire, and I hope for peace to prevail soon. We humans have a history of living in perpetual conflict. In particular, I am unsure who is right in the recent issues in Israel. In fact, it seems beyond my understanding. My hope is for the world to quickly find peace. Since I didn’t know much about the Middle East, I have been researching the Kingdom of Israel. In the 2000s, numerous artifacts from the era of Kings David and Solomon were discovered. I have compiled this information.
The DÁL RIATA
JANUARY – 2024 20 MINS READ
When I lived in Ireland, I often heard the words ‘Celtic’ and ‘Gaelic.’ At that time, I didn’t have much interest in ethnicity or culture, so I simply thought that they had beautiful patterns and a history. As I delved into the history of fabrics and patterns, I realized the significance of ethnic classification. This time, I conducted research on another ethnic group, the ‘Gaelic,’ which played a role in the origins of the Scottish people. Considering its connection to conflicts with the Picts and its contribution to the formation of the Kingdom of Alba, which ultimately leads to the clans of the Scottish people, this becomes a highly important field, differentiating the noble clans, in other words, the tartan patterns
ART OF TARTAN
JANUARY – 2024 20 MINS READ
You are all likely familiar with the long history of tartan, but have you ever delved into its true origins and enduring appeal? What is it about this pattern and its colors that captivates us so? While some might consider certain aspects of tartan traditional or even old-fashioned, its significance and style continue to resonate, especially around this time of year. Welcome to a special feature in Highcollar Magazine, where we embark on a journey to uncover the fascinating truths behind tartan checks
KENNETH MACALPIN
January – 2024 20 MINS READ
I initially thought that Scotland, including its connections to Ireland, was a Gaelic nation. Of course, that’s not entirely wrong, but it’s not entirely correct either. This is because I thought that the Kingdom of Dál Riata eroded and integrated the Pictish Kingdom, but it seems it was the Picts who eroded Dál Riata. The Scottish king ‘Kenneth MacAlpin’ (in Gaelic, Coinneach mac Ailpein) is an important figure in this respect. And this unification leads to the formation of Scotland.Understanding the entire formation of the Kingdom of Scotland is essential before discussing “tartan,” a symbol deeply intertwined with Scottish identity and heritage.
The Oldest Tartan In Scotland
January – 2024 20 MINS READ
The 1933 discovery of the Falkirk Tartan in Scotland offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient weaving techniques and the cultural interactions of the Romans and Celts. This research aims to explore the textile’s unique weaving style and its historical significance, highlighting its role in understanding Scotland’s pre-Roman Iron Age traditions and cultural heritage.
ROMAN ERA IN BRITAIN
January – 2024 20 MINS READ
The island of Britain during the Roman Empire represents a significant part of the ancient world in terms of its extensive history and cultural complexity. From the Roman conquest in AD 43, through nearly four centuries of dominion, Britain underwent profound geopolitical and cultural transformations. This paper delves into the societal, economic, and cultural aspects of Britain under Roman rule, revealing how the influence of ancient Rome intricately wove the threads of Britain’s historical tapestry.
Understanding the entire formation of the Kingdom of Scotland is essential before discussing “tartan,” a symbol deeply intertwined with Scottish identity and heritage.
Troy : The Collar City
JANUARY – 2024 30 MINS READ
In the late 19th century, Troy, New York, became known as “Collar City,” a title earned from its status as a hub for the manufacturing of detachable collars. At that time, clean clothing symbolized social status, and detachable collars offered a practical, hygienic solution. Troy met this new demand, supplying products nationwide, significantly impacting its economy and employing thousands. This study explores how Troy achieved its fame through detachable collar manufacturing and its broader impact.
Poplin Or Broad ?
January – 2024 30 MINS READ
In the UK, it’s referred to as poplin, while in the US, the same fabric is known as broadcloth. This intriguing discrepancy in naming reflects the cultural variations within the textile industry. Known for its high quality and refined appearance, this finely and tightly woven fabric is widely used in crafting elegant shirts. Poplin, or broadcloth, began its journey in medieval Europe as a luxury silk fabric, evolving over the centuries to become predominantly cotton-based. In this feature, we will explore the rich and intricate history of this fabric, its historical evolution, unique characteristics, and the reasons behind its differing names across countries.
The History of Shirts
MAY – 2024 30 MINS READ
The history of the dress shirt is closely linked to the evolution of human clothing over thousands of years. In ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, simple tunics and robes were the prototypes of modern shirts. Made primarily of linen and flax, these garments emphasized comfort and functionality. In medieval Europe, shirts were mainly worn as undergarments to protect the skin. These simple, long-sleeved linen shirts had a loose fit. By the 16th and 17th centuries, shirts featured more decoration, including embroidery and lace, becoming status symbols for the upper classes.The Industrial Revolution in the late 18th and 19th centuries brought significant changes to shirt manufacturing. Machine weaving made shirts more affordable and widely accessible. By the 19th century, the dress shirt began to take its modern form, with refined collars and cuffs, becoming an essential element of formal attire.
CUFF
JUNE – 2024 30 MINS READ
A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of a garment’s sleeve (such as a shirt, coat, or jacket) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The purpose of turned-back cuffs is to protect the garment’s fabric from fraying and to make it easier to repair or replace the cuffs without altering the entire garment. Cuffs can be created by folding back the material or by sewing on a separate band of material, which may also be worn separately and attached with buttons or studs. Cuffs can feature an ornamental border, lace, or other trimmings. In the United States, “trouser cuffs” refer to the folded, finished bottoms of trouser legs. In the United Kingdom, this term is now sometimes used, but the traditional term for the turned-up trouser hem is “turnup.”
COLLAR
JUNE – 2024 30 MINS READ
The shirt collar is the small protagonist in the world of fashion. At first glance, it might seem like a mere adornment around the neck. However, this little piece of fabric has cunningly fused functionality and aesthetic sense throughout its long history, playing a crucial role in determining the overall impression of a shirt. Since humans began wearing clothing, the collar has expressed the wearer’s status, profession, and even personality. Its shape and construction have evolved like a mirror reflecting the changing times and societies, from the majesty of royalty to the practicality of workers.
DIVERSE WORLD SHIRT STYLES
JUNE – 2024 30 MINS READ
Shirts are a fundamental item in fashion, and their designs and styles vary greatly depending on the country and culture. Though they may look similar, each country has unique characteristics shaped by its cultural background. This article explores the distinctive features of shirt designs from various countries and examines how each style has evolved over time.The traditional and culturally reflective shirts of the UK, the elegant and sophisticated shirts of France, the artisan-crafted and uniquely styled shirts of Italy (especially Naples), and the casual and practical shirts of the USA each offer a unique charm. Let’s delve into the captivating world of shirt designs from these diverse regions.
BYZANTINE SILK
JUNE – 2024 30 MINS READ
Byzantine silk refers to the silk products woven in the Byzantine Empire (Byzantium) from the 4th century until the Fall of Constantinople in 1453. The Byzantine capital of Constantinople became the first significant silk-weaving center in Europe, and its influence was extensive. Silk was a crucial commodity in the Byzantine economy, utilized by the state as a means of payment and diplomacy. Initially, raw silk was imported from China, and the textiles made from it were highly valued and traded at high prices worldwide. However, later on, silkworms were smuggled into the Byzantine Empire, allowing for self-sufficient silk production.
