RUFF : DECORAQTIVE COLLARS
December – 2023 15 MINS READ
One of the things I find strange about old paintings, especially portraits, is the ‘ruffled collar.’ It is a symbol of wealth and aristocratic splendor, but like the corset, it is also a very peculiar design. Why did it become so popular? This section studies it.Do you find this peculiar, or do you consider it noble？
古い絵画、特に肖像画について、私が奇妙だと感じることの一つは、『フリルのついた襟』です。これは富と貴族的な華麗さの象徴ですが、コルセットのように、非常に特異なデザインでもあります。なぜこれほど人気があったのでしょうか？このセクションではそれを研究します。あなたはこれを見て奇妙だと思いますか？高貴だと思いますか？
THE TRUE HISTORY OF L.L.BEAN / VINTAGE TAGS
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
“L.L.Bean” is a leading American brand. It is also my favorite brand. It is an integral part of the history of hunting and outdoor activities. The Maine Jacket, the Chamois Shirt and the Maine Hunting Boots are their signature products. But I have my doubts about the brand. Look back in history and study the old tags.
L.L.Beanはアメリカを代表するブランドであり、私のお気に入りのブランドでもあります。狩猟やアウトドア活動の歴史において欠かせない存在です。メインハンティングジャケット、シャモアシャツ、メインハンティングブーツは、彼らの代表的な製品です。しかし、私はこのブランドに疑問を持っています。歴史を振り返り、古いタグを研究し正しい歴史を学びましょう。ただし彼らが素晴らしいブランドであることは変わりはありません。
THE WORLD OLDEST TARTAN
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
The earliest surviving sample of tartan fabric was found in a cemetery in the Tarim Basin, China. It dates back to around 1200 B.C. and is made of kemp, the coarse outer hair of a sheep or goat. The fabric is similar to Scottish tartan of the 17th century, suggesting that these two cultures may have had a common ancestor.It means that the tartan also crossed over to the east. Let’s look at a piece of history.
最古のタータン織りの布のサンプルは、中国のタリム盆地にある墓地から発見されました。紀元前1200年頃のもので、羊やヤギの粗い毛（ケンプ）でできています。この布は、17世紀のスコットランドのタータンによく似ていることから、この2つの文化には共通の祖先がいた可能性があると示唆されています。つまり、タータンもまた東に伝わったのです。歴史を振り返ってみましょう。
Why Scots love KILT
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
Tartan is a symbol of Scottish pride and culture, and is still loved by many people today.Tartan is a type of woolen cloth with a checkered pattern. It is traditionally associated with Scottish clans, and each clan has its own unique tartan pattern. Kilts are made from tartan, and they are a traditional Scottish garment. Tartan has a long history, dating back to the 16th century in the Highlands. Originally, tartan was a symbol of Highland clans, but it eventually became a symbol of Scotland as a whole. However, in the 18th century, Scotland came under British rule, and tartan was banned, leading to its decline. After the ban was lifted in 1782, tartan began to be seen again. During WWI, Scottish soldiers were known for their bravery, and were even called “The Ladies of the Battlefield” by the German army.
スコットランドにはチェック柄の布「タータン」があります。そして部族ごとに違う模様で編んだ布をキルトと言います。タータンは、スコットランド人の誇りです。タータンの歴史は古く、16世紀頃にハイランド地方で生まれたとされています。タータンは、当初はハイランド地方の氏族を象徴するものでしたが、やがてスコットランド全体の象徴として広く親しまれるようになりました。しかし、18世紀になると、スコットランドはイギリスの支配下に入り、タータンの着用が禁止されるなど、タータンは衰退の一途をたどります。その後、1782年禁止令が廃止されタータンは再び注目されるようになります。WW1の際にはその勇猛果敢な戦い方から、ドイツ軍から戦場では「戦場の貴婦人」とまで言われました。
What is the flannel ? VOl.1
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
Flannel fabric is a warm and comfortable material that is perfect for chilly seasons. It has a unique texture that feels soft and inviting against the skin. Flannel fabric also offers exceptional insulation, making it a great choice for keeping warm in cold weather. Whether you are looking for a cozy shirt to wear on a cold day or a stylish to wear out on the town, flannel fabric is a great option.In this issue, we take a look at the history of flannel and its secrets.
フランネルは、寒い季節にぴったりの、暖かく快適な素材です。肌に触れると、独特の柔らかく心地よい質感があります。フランネルは保温性にも優れているため、寒い天候でも暖かく過ごすことができます。寒い日に着る暖かいシャツや、お出かけに着るおしゃれな服を探しているなら、フランネルは最適な選択肢です。この章では、フランネルの歴史と秘密をご紹介します。
COMBED AND SPUN WOOL / WORSTED AND WOOLEN
September – 2023 20 MINS READ
Understanding the difference between “combed(worsted)” and “spun(woolen)” is one of the most difficult things for a layman to grasp when they first start learning about yarn. It took me a long time to understand the difference myself, perhaps because I didn’t have any yarn to experiment with. Without any yarn to see and touch, it can be difficult to understand how it is made. The same is true for other materials, but wool is particularly challenging to understand. However, it is surprising how little-known it is that wool has been a necessity in human life since before Christ. Let’s study the very first part of this story together.
梳毛と紡毛。一般人が羊毛について学び始めたときに理解するのが最も難しいことの1つは、”spun/woolen(紡毛)”と”comded/worsted(梳毛)”の違いです。私自身も当初羊毛を触って体験することができなかったため、この違いを理解するのに長い時間がかかりました。糸がどのように作られているのかを理解するのは、羊毛以外の素材でも難しいことですが、特に羊毛は理解するのが難しいです。しかし、羊毛が紀元前より前から人間の生活に欠かせないものであったことは意外と知られていません。一緒にこの物語の最初の部分を勉強しましょう。
CANTON FLANNEL / CIVIL WAR
October – 2023 20 MINS READ
Flannel is of course the most developed fabric in Europe, but the culture of producing textiles itself has developed all over the world. Textiles were raised all over the world because they were warm wear and made ideal underwear. During the American Civil War, flannel was widely used. After the devastation of Europe after World War I, many Asian (Chinese and Japanese) textiles were exported to the booming United States. In this issue, we will study Cantonese flannel, which was regarded as the best of the best.
フランネルは、もちろんヨーロッパで最も発展した織物ですが、織物を生産する文化そのものは世界中で発展してきました。フランネルは暖かく、理想的な防寒着や下着となるため、世界中で愛用されてきました。アメリカの南北戦争では、フランネルシャツが広く使用されました。第一次世界大戦後のヨーロッパの荒廃の後、多くのアジア（中国や日本）の織物が好景気のアメリカに輸出されました。今回はその中でも最高級とされた「広東フランネル」について、学んでみましょう。
OG-108 / BLANKET SHIRT WORN BY MARILYN MONROE
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Marilyn Monroe came to South Korea in February of 1954 while honeymooning in Tokyo with Joe DiMaggio as part of the USO entertainment during the Korean War. Her visit served as an inspiration to soldiers, and when her helicopter touched down and she stepped onto the base, the whole atmosphere changed.The shirt she was wearing was an “OG-108,” which the soldiers called a blanket shirt. (It means a shirt made of thick fabric like a blanket.)
マリリン・モンローは1954年2月、ジョー・ディマジオと東京に新婚旅行をしているときに、朝鮮戦争中のUSOの興行の一環として韓国を訪れました。彼女たちの乗ったヘリコプターが着陸後、彼女が基地に足を踏み入れた瞬間に一瞬にして雰囲気が変わったと言われています。彼女の慰問は米国軍の兵士たちに大きな癒しと勇気を与えました。そして彼女がその時に着ていたシャツは、兵隊からブランケットシャツと呼ばれているシャツ ”OG-108″ でした。(毛布のように厚い生地のシャツという意味)
THE LOST PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS / VINTAGE TAGS
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
You will no longer be able to get your hands on a Pendleton shirt. Some would argue that this is not true. To be precise, Pendleton shirts and trousers will still be in the shops every winter. T-shirts with the logo may even be on sale. However, they are licensed products produced in Asia. Whether that is genuine or fake depends on the person. But I feel that only shirts made in the USA on American-made Pendleton fabric and sewn in the USA have any meaning.
もうあなたはペンドルトンを手にいれることはできません。と言うとそんなことはないと反論する人はいるでしょう。正確にはこれからもペンドルトンはお店には毎年のように並ぶでしょう。あなたはその商品を買うこともできます。ただしそれはアジア生産のライセンス生産品です。それを本物とするか偽物とするかは人によると思います。ただ私個人はアメリカ製で織られて縫われたペンドルトンにしか意味はないと感じています。今回はペンドルトンの歴史と彼らが残したモノを研究しましょう。
POPO / NATURAL SHIRT
SEPTEMBER – 2023 20 MINS READ
I met him about a year ago. I like his seriousness and hard work. His customers seem to be inspired by his work ethic, and orders are constantly coming in. I can’t wear his shirts or dresses(because for women) , but they look very natural and gentle. They seem to reflect his character. Our reporting team visited his workshop.
彼とは約1年前に知り合いました。彼の真面目さと努力家なところが私は好きです。彼の顧客は彼のキャラクターのファンのようで常に注文が絶えません。私は彼のシャツやドレスを着ることができませんが(女性用のため)、とても自然で優しい印象を受けます。それはまるで彼の性格をそのまま表しているように思います。私たち取材班はそんな彼の工房を訪ねました。
The history of "Cone denim" up until its bankruptcy
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
If you like “Jeans”, you have probably heard of the denim fabric made by the Cone company. The Cone Mills Corporation was an American textile manufacturing company. It produced cotton fabrics such as corduroy, flannel and denim. Headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003; it was bought out in 2004 and its last White Oak mill closed.
RENÉ LACOSTE: HIS TRUE HISTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Lacoste is the most famous polo shirt brand in the world. How has this French brand been created? And what was tennis players RENÉ LACOSTE live through? Here we study the world’s best polo shirt – Lacoste.
OGURA FABRICS - JAPANESE SILK JACQUARD FACTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Japan was once the world’s largest silk exporter. However, nowadays it produces almost no silk, and there are only a few places that still manufacture silk fabrics using traditional methods. I traveled to Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture to visit these remaining factories.
Film: Preston's cotton industry(1920)
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Admire the industrious, nimble-fingered cotton workers at the monumental Horrockses, Crewdson & Co cotton factory in the film Cotton Industry, Preston (1920). Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. was a textile company based in Preston, Lancashire. The company was originally formed in 1791 under the name of Horrocks. Over the centuries, the name of the company changed with the involvement of various business partners and when the company merged with others.Take a look at this rare video of the factory at that time.©british filminstitute
What is the Difference Between Denim, Chambray & Dungarees?
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Do you know the difference between denim, chambray and dungaree? These fabrics, which are very similar, have differences in the way they are made and their history. This section studies those differences.
What is the paisley pattern?
MAY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Where did the paisley pattern come from? The paisley pattern can be attributed to several theories when tracing its origins. Which is the correct one? And did you know that the name paisley also has nothing specific to do with the pattern?
The DEMI DECONSTRUCTION 『半分解展』 Vol.1
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
Today, we’re going to explore the history of clothing from a unique perspective. Over in Tokyo, there’s this fascinating exhibition called the “DEMI DECONSTRUCTION = Half Decomposition Exhibition 半分解展 ” by a chap called Mr Akiyoshi Hasegawa, who’s a garment specimenist. He showcases his expertise by deconstructing over a century-old piece of clothing by snapping it in half to examine its structure and shape. Now, I know this may seem unrelated to shirts, but I invite you to immerse yourself in the dynamic shifts of fashion that have taken place throughout history. It’s been a bumpy ride, but one that’s worth exploring.
The world's best cotton has disappeared
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.
Who invented the button-down ?
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
Liberty & co with William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement.
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural collaborators. Morris’s designs were an important part of the Liberty & Co. product line, and they helped to establish the company’s reputation for innovative, high-quality textile design.
Pinch out the dough from the slashing.
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
“what are you most interested in?
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The history of the shirt is very rarely discussed. It is almost never exposed because it is not a fancy item that appears on the surface of clothing like the “Habit à la française” “suit” “jacket” “gilet” and “piece d’estomac”
“bustle” (only the period before and after the ruff (collar) is special). The main reason for this is that it originally served as underwear. Let’s unravel the history of these enigmatic shirts together. I am convinced then you will like the “shirt” even more.
WE ARE Supporting for people and TEXTILE
print & Dye
メニュー
Liberty
UK
Marimekko
FINLAND
finlayson
FINLAND
KAUNISTE
FINLAND
mina perhonen
JAPAN
TEN TO SEN
JAPAN
OTTAIPNU
JAPAN
Somelos
portugal
baird mcnutt
NORTHERN IRELAND
Emblem
NORTHERN IRELAND
Borås Cotton
SWEDEN
Klippan
SWEDEN
Shirt museum
We already stock sample over 1000 shirts from all over the world (including vintage & antiques). We are taking beautiful photos and putting them out, so please wait a while now.
