POPO / NATURAL SHIRT
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
I met him about a year ago. I like his seriousness and hard work. His customers seem to be inspired by his work ethic, and orders are constantly coming in. I can’t wear his shirts or dresses(because for women) , but they look very natural and gentle. They seem to reflect his character. Our reporting team visited his workshop.
彼とは約1年前に知り合いました。彼の真面目さと努力家なところが私は好きです。彼の顧客は彼のキャラクターのファンのようで常に注文が絶えません。私は彼のシャツやドレスを着ることができませんが(女性用のため)、とても自然で優しい印象を受けます。それはまるで彼の性格をそのまま表しているように思います。私たち取材班はそんな彼の工房を訪ねました。
COMBED AND SPUN WOOL / WORSTED AND WOOLEN
September – 2023 20 MINS READ
Understanding the difference between “combed(worsted)” and “spun(woolen)” is one of the most difficult things for a layman to grasp when they first start learning about yarn. It took me a long time to understand the difference myself, perhaps because I didn’t have any yarn to experiment with. Without any yarn to see and touch, it can be difficult to understand how it is made. The same is true for other materials, but wool is particularly challenging to understand. However, it is surprising how little-known it is that wool has been a necessity in human life since before Christ. Let’s study the very first part of this story together.
梳毛と紡毛。一般人が羊毛について学び始めたときに理解するのが最も難しいことの1つは、”spun/woolen(紡毛)”と”comded/worsted(梳毛)”の違いです。私自身も当初羊毛を触って体験することができなかったため、この違いを理解するのに長い時間がかかりました。糸がどのように作られているのかを理解するのは、羊毛以外の素材でも難しいことですが、特に羊毛は理解するのが難しいです。しかし、羊毛が紀元前より前から人間の生活に欠かせないものであったことは意外と知られていません。一緒にこの物語の最初の部分を勉強しましょう。
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What is the flannel ? VOl.1
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
Flannel fabric is a warm and comfortable material that is perfect for chilly seasons. It has a unique texture that feels soft and inviting against the skin. Flannel fabric also offers exceptional insulation, making it a great choice for keeping warm in cold weather. Whether you are looking for a cozy shirt to wear on a cold day or a stylish to wear out on the town, flannel fabric is a great option.In this issue, we take a look at the history of flannel and its secrets.
フランネルは、寒い季節にぴったりの、暖かく快適な素材です。肌に触れると、独特の柔らかく心地よい質感があります。フランネルは保温性にも優れているため、寒い天候でも暖かく過ごすことができます。寒い日に着る暖かいシャツや、お出かけに着るおしゃれな服を探しているなら、フランネルは最適な選択肢です。この章では、フランネルの歴史と秘密をご紹介します。
ABOUT THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
August – 2023 30 MINS READ
We tend to focus on ‘invention’ and ‘population’ when talking about the Industrial Revolution. But we must know that history does not happen from those dots, but from a number of multiple factors. We will discuss the most important ‘invention’ in final chapter. Before that, let’s get to know the historical background that happened around it and follow the history of why the Industrial Revolution was able to become a thing in the UK.
産業革命を語るときに、私たちは「発明」と「人口」という点の部分に焦点を当てがちです。しかし歴史はそれらの点から起こるのではなく、いくつもの複合的な要因から起こっていることを知らなければなりません。そこで今回は最も重要な「発明」については最終章で述べることにします。その前にその周辺で起こった歴史的背景を知り、なぜイギリスで産業革命が起こったのか？ その歴史を追ってみましょう。
TUNIC : WHAT DID VIKINGS WEAR?
August – 2023 20 MINS READ
My research is taking a step back to the basics. I have recently been studying the relatively modern period of the 1800s and 1900s, but I believe that a solid foundation in the history of the shirt begins with the tunic , chiton and toga etc. However, as underwear is not as common in warmer regions, I would like to focus my research on clothing from northern regions this time.This research will surely lead to shirts as underwear.
私の研究は基本に戻りたいと思います。最近は1800年代から1900年代にかけての比較的近代的な時代のブランドなどを研究していましたが、シャツの歴史はチュニックから基礎が始まると考えています。しかし暖かい地方では下着としての役割のあったシャツはあまり一般的ではないので、今回は北方地方の衣服に焦点をあてて研究したいと思います。そしてこの研究は必ず下着としてのシャツにつながるはずです。
FUSTIAN
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Do you know the name of the fabric “fustian”? It is not a well-known name today, but it is actually a very important material for the Industrial Revolution, as well as for its long history. The term “fustian” varies from period to period, as there are several combinations of materials used in different periods. In this issue, we will study the relationship between “fustian” and the Industrial Revolution.
あなたは””fustian(フスティアン・ファスティアン)”という生地の名前を知っているでしょうか？今ではあまり知られていない名前ですが、それまでの長い歴史とともに、実は産業革命にとってとても重要な素材です。時代によって幾つかの素材の組み合わせがあるのでこれが”fustian“というのは時代とともに異なります。今回はその”fustian”ついて研究していきましょう。
Film: Preston's cotton industry(1920)
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Admire the industrious, nimble-fingered cotton workers at the monumental Horrockses, Crewdson & Co cotton factory in the film Cotton Industry, Preston (1920). Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. was a textile company based in Preston, Lancashire. The company was originally formed in 1791 under the name of Horrocks. Over the centuries, the name of the company changed with the involvement of various business partners and when the company merged with others.Take a look at this rare video of the factory at that time.©british filminstitute
映画『コットン・インダストリー、プレストン』（1920年）に登場するHorrockses, Crewdson&Coのコットン工場で働く、勤勉で手先の器用な紡績業の労働者たちの作業風景が動画に残っています。ホロックス・クルードソン商会は、ランカシャー州プレストンに本社を置く繊維会社でした。当初は1791年にHorrocksという社名で設立され、何世紀にもわたりさまざまなビジネス・パートナーの関与や他企業との合併により、社名は変化してきました。
OG-108 / BLANKET SHIRT WORN BY MARILYN MONROE
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
Marilyn Monroe came to South Korea in February of 1954 while honeymooning in Tokyo with Joe DiMaggio as part of the USO entertainment during the Korean War. Her visit served as an inspiration to soldiers, and when her helicopter touched down and she stepped onto the base, the whole atmosphere changed.The shirt she was wearing was an “OG-108,” which the soldiers called a blanket shirt. (It means a shirt made of thick fabric like a blanket.)
マリリン・モンローは1954年2月、ジョー・ディマジオと東京に新婚旅行をしているときに、朝鮮戦争中のUSOの興行の一環として韓国を訪れました。彼女たちの乗ったヘリコプターが着陸後、彼女が基地に足を踏み入れた瞬間に一瞬にして雰囲気が変わったと言われています。彼女の慰問は米国軍の兵士たちに大きな癒しと勇気を与えました。そして彼女がその時に着ていたシャツは、兵隊からブランケットシャツと呼ばれているシャツ ”OG-108″ でした。(毛布のように厚い生地のシャツという意味)
THE LOST PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS / VINTAGE TAGS
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
You will no longer be able to get your hands on a Pendleton shirt. Some would argue that this is not true. To be precise, Pendleton shirts and trousers will still be in the shops every winter. T-shirts with the logo may even be on sale. However, they are licensed products produced in Asia. Whether that is genuine or fake depends on the person. But I feel that only shirts made in the USA on American-made Pendleton fabric and sewn in the USA have any meaning.
もうあなたはペンドルトンを手にいれることはできません。と言うとそんなことはないと反論する人はいるでしょう。正確にはこれからもペンドルトンはお店には毎年のように並ぶでしょう。あなたはその商品を買うこともできます。ただしそれはアジア生産のライセンス生産品です。それを本物とするか偽物とするかは人によると思います。ただ私個人はアメリカ製で織られて縫われたペンドルトンにしか意味はないと感じています。今回はペンドルトンの歴史と彼らが残したモノを研究しましょう。
RENÉ LACOSTE: HIS TRUE HISTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Lacoste is the most famous polo shirt brand in the world. How has this French brand been created? And what was tennis players RENÉ LACOSTE live through? Here we study the world’s best polo shirt – Lacoste.
ラコステは世界で最も有名なポロシャツブランドです。このフランスのブランドはどのようにして生まれたのか？そして、テニスプレーヤー、ルネ・ラコステはどんな人生を歩んできたのか？世界最高のポロシャツ、ラコステについて考察します。
OGURA FABRICS - JAPANESE SILK JACQUARD FACTORY
JUNE – 2023 20 MINS READ
Japan was once the world’s largest silk exporter. However, nowadays it produces almost no silk, and there are only a few places that still manufacture silk fabrics using traditional methods. I traveled to Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture to visit these remaining factories.
日本はかつて世界最大の生糸輸出国でした。しかし、現在では絹の生産はほとんどなく、昔ながらの方法で絹織物を製造しているところは数えるほどしかありません。残された工場を訪ねるために、石川県小松市へ行ってきました。1895年創業の小倉織物（石川県小松市）は、絹織物の中でも最も繊細で高度な技術を必要とする後染め洋シルクジャガードを織ることができる日本でほぼ最後の会社です。売上減少、職人の高齢化、後継者不足、繊維産業の衰退、工場の老朽化など問題が山積する中、社長である父を助けるために姉妹たちが立ち上がりました。今回我々取材班は石川県小松市まで取材に向かいました。
The history of "Cone denim" up until its bankruptcy
JULY – 2023 20 MINS READ
If you like “Jeans”, you have probably heard of the denim fabric made by the Cone company. The Cone Mills Corporation was an American textile manufacturing company. It produced cotton fabrics such as corduroy, flannel and denim. Headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003; it was bought out in 2004 and its last White Oak mill closed.
もしあなたが「ジーンズ」が大好きであれば、コーン社製のデニム生地について聞いたことがあるでしょう。コーン社はアメリカの繊維製造会社でした。コーデュロイ、フランネル、デニムなどの多くの綿織物を生産していました。歴史のあるこのノースカロライナ州グリーンズボロに本社を置く会社は高い品質の商品を製造していましたがデニムの衰退とともに2003年に連邦破産法第11章を申請。2004年には買収され最後のホワイトオーク工場は閉鎖され歴史に幕を閉じました。
“what are you most interested in?
“
The history of the shirt is very rarely discussed. It is almost never exposed because it is not a fancy item that appears on the surface of clothing like the “Habit à la française” “suit” “jacket” “gilet” and “piece d’estomac”
“bustle” (only the period before and after the ruff (collar) is special). The main reason for this is that it originally served as underwear. Let’s unravel the history of these enigmatic shirts together. I am convinced then you will like the “shirt” even more.
WE ARE Supporting for people and TEXTILE
SHIRTS BRAND
メニュー
The United Kingdom
FRANCE
NAPOLI
ITALIA
the united states of america
JAPAN
First shirt manufacturer in Japan since 1876.
YAMATOYA
Yamatoya Shirt Shop opened the first “shirt shop” in Japan in 1876 at Benten Street in Yokohama, and opened shops in New York, Ginza, Kobe, Tianjin. Now they are making a shirt at Ginza Tokyo.
The shirt shop loved by Jiro Shirasu, established in 1930.
TANI SHIRT
TANI SHIRT is an order-made shirt shop with its head office in the Hotel Okura main building. The company was founded in 1930. Currently, branches are opened at the Imperial Hotel and Sapporo Mitsukoshi.
one of a best bespoke shirt manufacturer in Osaka. Est.1986
LES LESTON
LES LESTON has been pursuing the ultimate shirt in Bespoke since its foundation in 1986. It is the one and only shirt produced by the craftsmanship that does not allow any compromise and the modern sensitivity by sticking to made in Japan and craftsmanship for many years.
TEXTILES
Humans and textiles have a long history. Linen, hemp, wool, cotton , of course silk is the best. Today, cotton and linen are the most common materials for shirt. There are many great beautiful fabric brands in the world.
How many brands do you know?
TEXTILE BRAND
メニュー
Carlo Riva is an Italian fabric manufacturer with a long history, established in 1871, and continues to produce the world’s finest fabrics, known as jewels.The fabrics are spun in Switzerland, where the water is clean, from carefully selected cotton from Egypt.The finished yarn is not used immediately, but stored in a humidity-controlled warehouse for more than six months, and the matured yarn is then woven at low speed using an old shuttle machine to complete the process.The amount of time and care that goes into the production of these fabrics is the reason why their distribution is extremely low and why they are known as ‘the jewels of fabrics’.
Albini is an Italian textile company with a long and rich history dating back to 1876. The company was founded by Zaffiro Borgomanero, who started out as a small trader in textiles and then expanded into production. In the early 20th century, Albini began exporting its fabrics to the United States and other parts of the world, and by the 1950s, the company had established itself as one of the leading textile producers in Italy.
Bonfanti Tessuti is an Italian textile company that was founded in 1965 by Alberto Bonfanti. The company is based in Como, a city in northern Italy that is renowned for its textile production.From the beginning, Bonfanti Tessuti has been dedicated to producing high-quality fabrics using the finest materials and the latest technology. The company specializes in the production of luxury shirting fabrics made from cotton, linen, silk, and other natural fibers.Over the years, Bonfanti has established itself as a major player in the textile industry, with a reputation for producing some of the most luxurious and high-quality fabrics available. The company’s fabrics are used by some of the world’s leading fashion houses, and it has also supplied textiles for prestigious hotels, restaurants, and other high-end establishments.
The Thomas Mason fabric mill was founded in 1796 in Leeds, England. The first fabrics were considered top quality and were widely used by West End London tailors to clothe the British aristocracy.Through the 1800s, as Britain’s empire and wealth expanded. Back in Victorian Era London, Jermyn St and Savile Row emerged as a center for fine gentleman’s clothing. During the WW1, the Thomas Mason mill developed new fabrics and treatments, such as waterproofed cotton, that proved vastly helpful to the British cause. In the few decades after the war, aided by the solidification of Savile Row as the international epicenter of elegant gentlemen’s clothing, Thomas Mason transitioned back to producing the finest dress shirt fabrics in the British Empire. In 1936—at the height of English style icon Duke of Windsor’s roguishness—Thomas Mason became the exclusive fabric supplier for Turnbull & Asser, longtime shirt maker of English royalty.In 1992, Italian-based Albini Group acquired Thomas Mason and moved production to Bergamo, Italy where it remains
Anderson & Lawrie, founded in 1822 by David Anderson, specialized in gentlemen’s neckwear. In 1839, Alexander Lawrie retired, and David’s brother joined the firm, which became David & John Anderson. By the 1870s, they were headquartered in Glasgow and had works at Atlantic Mills. They became a private limited liability company in 1911, with David Blyth Anderson as the new chairman. After 1911, they absorbed the Glasgow firm of Lambie & Readman and formed links with Wm Hollins & Co Ltd. David & John Anderson (London) Ltd was set up to oversee the export market in high-quality shirts made from Anderson fabrics. Despite their focus on quality, the firm struggled financially and was taken over by House of Fraser Ltd in 1959.And in 1992 David & John Anderson was acquired by the Bergamo-based Albini Group
lumo’s story began in 1918 when Carl Albrecht established a weaving mill with 48 looms, taking advantage of Switzerland’s strong infrastructure in spinning and weaving technology. By 1927, the business had grown to 84 looms and was handed over to Carl’s son. Despite economic crises and the Second World War, Albrecht + Morgen, as it was renamed after Robert Morgen joined the company in 1941, successfully continued operations. Eventually, the name was shortened to Alumo. Since the 1950s, the company has specialized in producing the finest cotton fabrics for shirts, constantly refining their expertise. With over a century of experience, Alumo remains committed to producing high-quality textiles, and their selection of exquisite cotton fabrics is trusted by bespoke tailors and garment manufacturers worldwide, all made to the highest standards of Swiss quality.
CANCLINI is a textile brand based in Italy that has been operating for over 80 years. The company was founded in 1925 by Giuseppe Canclini in the town of Como, Italy. The company started as a small workshop producing silk fabrics for the local market, but it quickly grew and expanded its product line to include cotton, linen, and wool fabrics as well.During the 1950s and 1960s, CANCLINI became known for its innovative fabrics, which were often used in high-end fashion designs. Today, CANCLINI is a global brand that produces a wide range of fabrics for the fashion, home, and hospitality industries. The company is still based in Como, Italy, and it continues to be family-owned and operated.
Albiate 1830 is a textile brand based in Italy that has been in operation for almost two centuries. The company was founded in 1830 in the town of Albiate, near Milan, by Luigi Bigatti. Initially, the company produced fabrics for local markets, but over time it expanded its product range to include a wide variety of textiles. In the 1960s, Albiate 1830 became part of the Gruppo Albini, a family-owned textile group that includes several other prestigious brands.Today, Albiate 1830 is still part of the Gruppo Albini and continues to produce a wide range of fabrics for the fashion and home industries. The company is particularly known for its denim fabrics, which are used by some of the most famous denim brands in the world.
Monti is a textile brand based in Italy that has been operating for over a century. The company was founded in 1911 by Luigi Monti in the town of Cesano Maderno, near Milan. Initially, the company produced high-quality shirting fabrics for the local market, but over time it expanded its product range to include a wide variety of textiles.Monti fabrics are highly regarded by fashion designers around the world for their quality, durability, and innovative design. Some of the most prestigious fashion brands in the world use Monti fabrics in their collections, including Armani, Gucci, Prada, Ralph Lauren, and Zegna, among others.
At the beginning of the 1900s, Vincenzo Caccioppoli decided to leave Naples, together with his eldest son Raffaele, and start importing clothing fabrics from Italy and the United States to Bogotà, Colombia. There, he opened a shop called “Almacén Italia” in Plaza Bolívar. A few years later, his second son, Salvatore, also joined them in Colombia.Around 1920, with the conclusion of the First World War, Vincenzo Caccioppoli and his two sons decided to return to Naples and start a business selling fabrics. This led to the establishment of the historic Caccioppoli shop in the heart of Naples, in Piazza Nicola Amore, which is still the current headquarters of the company.A few years later, Vincenzo’s other two sons, Cosimo and Antonio, also joined the company, leading to the formation of the “F.lli Caccioppoli di V.zo” (Caccioppoli Brothers of Vincenzo).
Since its foundation in 1924 in Mazate, on the outskirts of Milan, Italy, SICTESS has pursued high quality fabrics as a top quality brand of shirt fabrics.In 2005, SIC TESS became part of the MONTI group, which has a long tradition and shares the same philosophy, and today the SIC TESS brand continues as a division of MONTI.While maintaining the tradition of SIC TESS, the collections are made up of high-quality, classic designs as well as modern designs.
SÖKTAŞ, established in 1971, is a leading fashion supplier, specializing in cotton and cotton-blended fabrics for shirtings, jackets, and trousers. With complete control over our production chain and a vast archive of fabric samples, we offer luxury at every level and stay ahead of industry trends. Our commitment to developing unique yarns and blends, such as Meander 71, sets us apart in the market.
print & Dye
メニュー
Liberty
UK
Marimekko
FINLAND
finlayson
FINLAND
KAUNISTE
FINLAND
mina perhonen
JAPAN
TEN TO SEN
JAPAN
OTTAIPNU
JAPAN
Somelos
portugal
baird mcnutt
NORTHERN IRELAND
Emblem
NORTHERN IRELAND
Borås Cotton
SWEDEN
Klippan
SWEDEN
Shirt museum
We already stock sample over 1000 shirts from all over the world (including vintage & antiques). We are taking beautiful photos and putting them out, so please wait a while now.
