SPACIAL VINTAGE
PENDLETON 40~90’s MADE IN USA
Pendleton Woolen Mills is an American textile manufacturing company that specializes in the production of woolen blankets, clothing, and accessories. The company was founded in 1863 by Thomas Kay, a British weaver who immigrated to the United States.They began to diversify producing clothing after the WW2.This section describes chronological brand label.
ペンドルトン・ウーレン・ミルズは、毛織物、衣類、アクセサリーを専門に生産するアメリカの繊維製造会社である。1863年、アメリカに移住した英国人織物職人トーマス・ケイによって設立され、第二次世界大戦後、衣料品製造の多角化を開始した。ここでは年代別にそのタグの遍歴をご紹介します。
21. FEBRUARY – 2023 12 MINS READ
ー prologue ー
The history of the shirt is very rarely discussed. It is almost never exposed because it is not a fancy item that appears on the surface of clothing like the “Habit à la française” “suit” “jacket” “gilet” and “piece d’estomac”
“bustle” (only the period before and after the ruff (collar) is special). The main reason for this is that it originally served as underwear. Let’s unravel the history of these enigmatic shirts together. I am convinced then you will like the “shirt” even more.
シャツの歴史を語られることは非常に稀です。スーツやジャケット、ジレ、アビアラフランセーズ、 ピエス、バッスルスカートのように服飾の表面に出る派手なものではないので露出することはほぼありません(唯一ラフ(襟)の前後の時代だけは特別)。元来下着の役割ということが最大の原因です。
そんな謎の多いシャツの歴史を一緒に紐解いて見ましょう。そしてあなたは”シャツ”をもっと好きになるでしょう。
そんな謎の多いシャツの歴史を一緒に紐解いて見ましょう。そしてあなたは”シャツ”をもっと好きになるでしょう。
TOPICS
NEW TOPICS
PENDLETON 40~90's MADE IN USA
Pendleton Woolen Mills is an American textile manufacturing company that specializes in the production of woolen blankets, clothing, and accessories. The company was founded in 1863 by Thomas Kay, a British weaver who immigrated to the United States.They began to diversify producing clothing after the WW2.This section describes chronological brand label.
ペンドルトン・ウーレン・ミルズは、毛織物、衣類、アクセサリーを専門に生産するアメリカの繊維製造会社である。1863年、アメリカに移住した英国人織物職人トーマス・ケイによって設立され、第二次世界大戦後、衣料品製造の多角化を開始した。ここでは年代別にそのタグの遍歴をご紹介します。
21. FEBRUARY – 2023 12 MINS READ
Why are shirts "made in Naples" the most beautiful in the world?
Naples has a long history of textile production, dating back to the medieval period. The city has been a center for high-quality fabrics and clothing for centuries, and many of the artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations are still used today. Neapolitan shirtmakers are known for their meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality. They use only the finest materials, including the highest-quality cotton, silk, and linen, and often employ traditional hand-stitching techniques that ensure a perfect fit.
ナポリの歴史は古く、中世までさかのぼります。古くから高級織物や衣料品の産地として知られ、現在でも多くの職人技が受け継がれています。ナポリのシャツメーカーは、細部にまでこだわり、品質へのこだわりを持つことで知られています。コットン、シルク、リネンなど、最高級の素材のみを使用し、完璧なフィット感を実現するために伝統的なハンドステッチ技術を採用することも多い。
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
Cotton is a fabulous fibre !
Cotton is a soft, versatile, and durable natural fiber that can be used for clothing, bedding, medical products, and industrial goods. It is highly absorbent, comfortable, and regulates body temperature. Cotton is also a sustainable crop that requires relatively low amounts of water and pesticides compared to other crops. Its cultural significance and economic importance make it an indispensable material in our daily lives.
ナポリの歴史は古く、中世までさかのぼります。古くから高級織物や衣料品の産地として知られ、現在でも多くの職人技が受け継がれています。ナポリのシャツメーカーは、細部にまでこだわり、品質へのこだわりを持つことで知られています。コットン、シルク、リネンなど、最高級の素材のみを使用し、完璧なフィット感を実現するために伝統的なハンドステッチ技術を採用することも多い。
January – 2023 15 MINS READ
What is the "Turnbull Cut" means
Turnbull & Asser, the world’s most famous and legendary shirt maker, is one of the oldest and most respected British companies. Its name has always meant shirts of the highest quality in the world of men’s fashion.And they have their own collar form. And English gentlemen love it. Here we introduce what the traditional “Turnbull Cut” collar.
世界で最も有名で伝説的なシャツメーカーであるターンブル＆アッサーは、最も古く、最も尊敬される英国企業のひとつである。その名は常にメンズファッションの世界で最高品質のシャツを意味する。そして彼らは独自の襟型を持っている。そして、英国紳士はそれを愛用しています。ここでは、伝統的な “ターンブルカット “の襟とは何かを紹介します。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Why is the yoke of a shirt so important?
The shirt yoke is the panel of fabric that sits across the shoulders and upper back of a shirt, just below the collar. It may seem like a small and insignificant detail, but the yoke actually serves several important functions.
シャツのヨークとは、シャツの肩と背中の上部、襟のすぐ下にある生地のパネルのことです。襟のすぐ下にあり、肩から背中にかけての布地です。一見すると小さなパーツですが、実はいくつかの重要な役割があります。
歴史も踏まえてその秘密を知りましょう。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
The history of sheep breeding.
Sheep breeding began around 11,000 years ago for wool and meat. Selective breeding led to different breeds adapted to different environments and purposes. The Industrial Revolution led to increased demand for wool and the development of specialized breeds.
羊の品種改良は、羊毛と食肉を目的に約11,000年前に始まりました。選択的な品種改良により、環境や目的に応じてさまざまな品種が生まれた。産業革命により羊毛の需要が高まり、特殊な品種が開発されました。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Uniqlo is the world's largest producer of button-down shirts.
UNIQLO is probably the best-selling ‘button-down’ shirt in the world. This is because they are the best-selling standard men’s shirt at UNIQLO. But would you still choose an American-made original? Or would you choose UNIQLO? In this chapter, we compare their shirts.
ユニクロはおそらく世界で一番「ボタンダウン」シャツを売っているでしょう。なぜなら、ユニクロで一番売れている定番メンズシャツだからです。しかしそれでもあなたはアメリカ製のオリジナルを選びますか？ それともユニクロを選びますか？この章ではそれらのシャツを比較します。
世界で最も有名で伝説的なシャツメーカーであるターンブル＆アッサーは、最も古く、最も尊敬される英国企業のひとつである。その名は常にメンズファッションの世界で最高品質のシャツを意味する。そして彼らは独自の襟型を持っている。そして、英国紳士はそれを愛用しています。ここでは、伝統的な “ターンブルカット “の襟とは何かを紹介します。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
My favourite linen fine stories.
Linen is a fabric that has been used for clothing, bedding, and other household items for thousands of years. The earliest evidence of linen production dates back to around 4,000 BCE in Egypt, where the fabric was used for clothing and burial shrouds.Linen was highly valued in ancient societies for its coolness, durability, and luxurious appearance. It was also used for sailcloth, and the linen sails of ancient Phoenician ships were highly prized for their strength and ability to catch the wind.
ウィリアム・モリスは、リバティと仕事をした最も重要なデザイナーの一人であり、彼のデザインはリバティの美学に大きな影響を与えた。モリスとリバティ社は、ともにアーツ・アンド・クラフツ運動に関連しており、高品質な手作り品への共通のこだわりから、自然な協力者となりました。モリスのデザインはリバティ社の製品ラインの重要な一部となり、革新的で高品質なテキスタイルデザインというリバティ社の名声を確立するのに貢献しました。
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
Pinch out the dough from the slashing.
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
Liberty & co with William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement.
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural collaborators. Morris’s designs were an important part of the Liberty & Co. product line, and they helped to establish the company’s reputation for innovative, high-quality textile design.
ウィリアム・モリスは、リバティと仕事をした最も重要なデザイナーの一人であり、彼のデザインはリバティの美学に大きな影響を与えた。モリスとリバティ社は、ともにアーツ・アンド・クラフツ運動に関連しており、高品質な手作り品への共通のこだわりから、自然な協力者となりました。モリスのデザインはリバティ社の製品ラインの重要な一部となり、革新的で高品質なテキスタイルデザインというリバティ社の名声を確立するのに貢献しました。
MARCH – 2023 20 MINS READ
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
HISTORICAL
Pinch out the dough from the slashing.
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
HISTORICAL
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
laboratory
Liberty Print with William Morris
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural.
ウィリアム・モリスは、リバティと仕事をした最も重要なデザイナーの一人であり、彼のデザインはリバティの美学に大きな影響を与えた。モリスとリバティ社は、ともにアーツ・アンド・クラフツ運動に関連しており、高品質な手作り品への共通のこだわりから、自然な協力者となりました。モリスのデザインはリバティ社の製品ラインの重要な一部となり、革新的で高品質なテキスタイルデザインというリバティ社の名声を確立するのに貢献しました。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Who invented the button-down ?
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
about 1940s GIEVES LTD SHIRTS
Which is the oldest and most prestigious brand in the UK? Of course, there are several answers for different people, but “Gieves & Hawkes” must surely be one of them. The brand’s track record of serving both the British Army and the Royal Navy cannot be compared to any other brand. The address, 1 Savile Row, says it all.And I got a shirt from the GIEVES era.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
The world's best cotton has disappeared
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
You Missed THEM ?
OXFORD THE ORIGIN
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period. It is little known to the rest of the world, that this is attributed to the development of Japanese machinery manufacturers today.
Marimekko is beautiful
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period. It is little known to the rest of the world, that this is attributed to the development of Japanese machinery manufacturers today.
Out of the slash.
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period.
Why Marimekko is exceptionally beautiful
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period. It is little known to the rest of the world, that this is attributed to the development of Japanese machinery manufacturers today.
OUR COLLECTIONS
How to make the Beautiful Linen
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period. It is little known to the rest of the world, that this is attributed to the development of Japanese machinery manufacturers today.
OUR COLLECTIONS
Pinch the shirt out of the slash.
Do you know ？ Toyota, the world’s number one selling car manufacturer, started out making looms. Japan was the world’s largest exporter of cotton textiles during the devastating post-WW2 reconstruction period.
SHIRT LABORATORY
“what are you most interested in?
“
historical research
Shirts in beautiful art
The return of the prodigal child. / Leonello Spada
The painting “The Return of the Prodigal Child” was created by Italian Baroque artist Leonello Spada in the 17th century. The painting depicts a biblical story from the Gospel of Luke in which a wayward son returns home to his father after squandering his inheritance. In the painting, the prodigal son is shown kneeling before his father, who is embracing him with open arms. The father is dressed in rich robes, while the son is shown wearing tattered clothing, emphasizing his penitent state. In the background, a servant is seen preparing a feast to celebrate the son’s return. The painting is notable for its dramatic use of light and shadow, which creates a sense of depth and intensity. Spada was known for his skillful use of chiaroscuro, a technique in which light and dark areas are contrasted to create a sense of three-dimensional space.
The return of the prodigal child. / Leonello Spada
The painting “The Return of the Prodigal Child” was created by Italian Baroque artist Leonello Spada in the 17th century. The painting depicts a biblical story from the Gospel of Luke in which a wayward son returns home to his father after squandering his inheritance. In the painting, the prodigal son is shown kneeling before his father, who is embracing him with open arms. The father is dressed in rich robes, while the son is shown wearing tattered clothing, emphasizing his penitent state. In the background, a servant is seen preparing a feast to celebrate the son’s return. The painting is notable for its dramatic use of light and shadow, which creates a sense of depth and intensity. Spada was known for his skillful use of chiaroscuro, a technique in which light and dark areas are contrasted to create a sense of three-dimensional space.
放蕩息子の帰還 レオネッロ・スパーダ 【現在来日中】
絵画「放蕩息子の帰還」は、17世紀にイタリアのバロック画家レオネッロ・スパーダによって制作されました。彼はボローニャで生まれ絵画の修行後にローマに移り同世代のカラヴァッジョの影響を受けバロック絵画を代表する画家になります。この作品は「ルカによる福音書」にある遺産を浪費した放蕩息子が父のもとに帰ってくるという聖書の物語を描いたものです。絵の中では、放蕩息子が父親の前にひざまずき両手を広げて抱きしめている姿が描かれています。父親は豊かな衣をまとい息子はぼろぼろの衣を身にまとい懺悔する姿を強調しています。背景には息子の帰還を祝う宴の準備をする召使いの姿が描かれています。この絵光と影をドラマチックに使い、奥行きと強さを表現しているのが特徴です。スパーダはカラヴァッジョが得意としたキアロスクーロ（明暗を対比させて立体感を出す技法）を巧みに使うことで知られています。
seasonal Shirt Art
Jean-Baptiste Greuze / La Blanchisseuse (1761)
The Laundress (French: La Blanchisseuse) is a 1761 genre painting by French artist Jean-Baptiste Greuze (1725-1805), existing in two versions. The subject of laundresses, also known as washerwomen, was a popular one in art, especially in France.
The prime version of The Laundress was one of fourteen works exhibited by Greuze at the Salon of 1761 and was part of the collection of Greuze’s patron, Ange Laurent Lalive de Jully. The painting was mostly unknown for more than two centuries as it was purchased in 1770 by Gustaf Adolf Sparre and privately held in that Swedish art collection and rarely seen until it was acquired by the Getty Museum in 1983.
The second version is now in the Fogg Museum, Harvard. At 39 x 31 cm, it is just slightly smaller than the Getty’s, and also dated c. 1761. It was possibly created to allow a print to be made of the subject.
The second version is now in the Fogg Museum, Harvard. At 39 x 31 cm, it is just slightly smaller than the Getty’s, and also dated c. 1761. It was possibly created to allow a print to be made of the subject.
form
Why Naples" shirt the most beautiful.
Naples has a long history of textile production, dating back to the medieval period. The city has been a center for high-quality fabrics and clothing for centuries, and many of the artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations are still used today. Neapolitan shirtmakers are known for their meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality.
ナポリの歴史は古く、中世までさかのぼります。古くから高級織物や衣料品の産地として知られ、現在でも多くの職人技が受け継がれています。ナポリのシャツメーカーは、細部にまでこだわり、品質へのこだわりを持つことで知られています。コットン、シルク、リネンなど、最高級の素材のみを使用し、完璧なフィット感を実現するために伝統的なハンドステッチ技術を採用することも多い。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
Pinch out the dough from the slashing.
Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 15 MINS READ
Who invented the button-down ?
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
TOPIC
a symbol of Rich
Ruff ...Why is it shaped like this?
When you go to a museum and see a portrait you always wonder about this funny collar. I always agree with you about that. Why did these collars become so popular? And how did they become so bloated? Let’s take a trip through history with us..
TOPIC
the “Button Down”
Who invented the button-down ?
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.” ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.”
But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?
TXTILE
TOPIC
Missing “Viyella”
55% merino wool and 45% cotton...
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool & 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
TOPIC
LOST REAL “IRISH LINEN”
The lost real "Irish Linen" in Ireland.
When you go to a museum and see a portrait you always wonder about this funny collar. I always agree with you about that. Why did these collars become so popular? And how did they become so bloated? Let’s take a trip through history with us..
TOPIC
triggered the Opium War
The "Nankeen" was of excellent quality !
When you go to a museum and see a portrait you always wonder about this funny collar. I always agree with you about that. Why did these collars become so popular? And how did they become so bloated? Let’s take a trip through history with us..
Liberty Print with William Morris
William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural.
ウィリアム・モリスは、リバティと仕事をした最も重要なデザイナーの一人であり、彼のデザインはリバティの美学に大きな影響を与えた。モリスとリバティ社は、ともにアーツ・アンド・クラフツ運動に関連しており、高品質な手作り品への共通のこだわりから、自然な協力者となりました。モリスのデザインはリバティ社の製品ラインの重要な一部となり、革新的で高品質なテキスタイルデザインというリバティ社の名声を確立するのに貢献しました。
FEBRUARY – 2023 15 MINS READ
MISSING “VIYELLA FLANNEL”
The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
MARCH – 2023 10 MINS READ
The world's best cotton has disappeared
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.
スラッシングは16世紀に流行したファッションで、男女のシャツをはじめ、ダブレットや袖などの衣服のデザインによく用いられた。スラッシュは通常、左右対称または幾何学的なパターンで配置され、鮮やかな色のシルクやリネンなど、対照的な生地で埋め尽くされることが多くありました。
April – 2023 20 MINS READ
“what are you most interested in?
“
We would like to many thank Ms. Naoka Aoki / Historical Fashion Designer
HOW TO MAKE THE SHIRT
– The Complete guide –
Text by Tatsuo Tokoro : The Master shirtmaker
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” Do You want to know about Really good shirt ?”
please access “the complete book of shirt” under the website
You Could know “How to make the shirt”
We would like to thank The Master Shirtmaker Mr Tokoro.
BRAND
There are many shirt brands in the world. Which brand is your favourite?
The shirt industry is in a tough state at the moment. I do not know how long they could make a beautiful shirt.
メニュー
The United Kingdom
TURNBULL & ASSER
Turnbull & Asser is a British luxury clothing brand that was founded in 1885 by Reginald Turnbull and Ernest Asser. They started their business in London’s fashion district, specializing in bespoke shirts. The company quickly gained a reputation for quality and craftsmanship, attracting a prestigious clientele. Over the years, Turnbull & Asser expanded its product range to include ties and other accessories, and gained international recognition in the 1960s when it provided shirts for the James Bond films. Today, Turnbull & Asser remains a leading luxury brand, known for its attention to detail and high-quality products.
Hilditch & Key
Hilditch & Key is a British luxury clothing brand that specializes in men’s shirts and accessories. The company was founded in London in 1899 by two tailors, Charles F. Hilditch and W. Graham Key, who had a vision to create the perfect shirt. Their first shop was located on Jermyn Street in London’s fashionable St. James’s district, and quickly gained a reputation for quality and craftsmanship. The company’s shirts were known for their attention to detail, with features such as hand-stitched buttons and collar stays.
DRAKE’S
Drake’s is a British luxury clothing and accessories brand that was founded in London in 1977 by Michael Drake. The company specializes in handmade ties, scarves, and other accessories for men, but has also expanded its product range to include clothing such as shirts, jackets, and trousers.Drake’s products are known for their high quality and attention to detail, with a focus on using fine materials and traditional craftsmanship techniques. The brand has become particularly well-known for its ties, which are handmade in London using a 7 fold construction method, and are available in a wide range of colors and patterns.
Established 1910. Piccadilly Arcade for over 100 years.
BUDD LONDON
Budd was founded in 1910 by Harold Budd as an exclusively bespoke shirtmaker.Its original premises were located in Piccadilly Arcade, adjacent to Jermyn Street. After bombing during the Blitz, Budd bought premises opposite the original store, which were the only premises in the Arcade still standing. It is now the only original member of the Arcade still operating.
FRANCE
CHARVET
Charvet is a French luxury shirtmaker and clothing brand that was founded in 1838 by Joseph-Christophe Charvet. The company’s flagship store is located at Place Vendôme in Paris and has a rich history of serving royal families, diplomats, and celebrities.Charvet is known for its bespoke and ready-to-wear shirts, which are made with the highest quality materials and handcrafted using traditional techniques. It is also known as Hermes’ shirt outsourcing.
ATELIERS GAUTHIER
Founded in 1947, Ateliers Gauthier designs and manufactures top-of-the-range shirts for men and women in Chalon-sur-Saône under its own brands “La Chemise Française” and “Alain GAUTHIER”.In 2006, Michel and Bernadette de Saint-Jean took up the torch and gave birth to the Ateliers Gauthier with the strong desire to preserve and perpetuate the know-how, expertise and values acquired over half a century.
LISTE ROUGE
In 1938, Robert Challe created the Durfor brand, whose made-to-measure shirts were produced by seamstresses in a small Normandy workshop in Flers.When its founder died, the House of Durfor was passed on to the next generations, and continued its ascent, moving to Place Vendôme in Paris in 1990.In 1995, Maison Durfor is renamed Liste Rouge by its new owner, Michel Monier.
NAPOLI
ANNA MATUOZZO
Anna Matuozzo is a luxury shirtmaker founded by Anna Matuozzo in Naples, Italy in 1987. The brand specializes in bespoke and made-to-measure men’s dress shirts, which are handmade by skilled artisans in the company’s atelier in Naples. Anna Matuozzo herself started her career in the world of fashion by working as a seamstress for “London Houses”. Her passion for tailoring and design eventually led her to start her own brand, where she could create shirts that reflected her unique vision of Italian elegance and sophistication.
LUIGI BORRELLI
Luigi Borrelli is an Italian luxury fashion brand specializing in high-end men’s clothing, Luigi Borrelli Napoli founded in 1957 by Luigi Borrelli senior. . The brand is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, attention to detail, and use of high-quality materials. Its handcrafted dress shirts, made using traditional techniques, are particularly renowned. Luigi Borrelli has stores in Naples, Milan, Rome, and New York City, as well as a strong online presence, and is highly respected in the fashion industry for its commitment to excellence.
BARBA
Barba Napoli is a luxury men’s clothing brand founded in Naples, Italy in 1988 by the Barba family. Initially focused on producing high-quality men’s shirts, the brand quickly gained a reputation for excellence and expanded its product line. Today, Barba Napoli is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, use of high-quality materials, and traditional production techniques. The brand has stores in Italy and around the world and is highly respected in the fashion industry.
ITALIA
FRAY
Fray is an Italian shirt brand with a long history dating back to 1962. The brand was founded in Bologna, Italy, and has become known for its high-quality men’s shirts that emphasize both style and comfort.Fray shirts are made using premium materials and designed with great attention to detail. The brand offers a wide range of styles, from classic dress shirts to more casual and contemporary designs. Over the years, Fray has become a well-respected brand in the world of men’s fashion, with a reputation for quality and style that is recognized around the world.
GUY ROVER
GUY ROVER has been presenting reasonably priced dress shirts and casual shirts compared to the quality, based on the concept of providing shirts of the highest quality made entirely by machine-made. Founded in 1973 in Piacenza, it is a leading Italian shirt brand. GUY ROVER shirts are made through a process of trial and error to see how the sartoria (tailoring) techniques can be reflected in modern shirts.
FINOLLO
Camiceria FINOLLO is an Italian brand that specializes in the production of high-quality men’s dress shirts. The brand was founded in 1932 by Luigi Finollo in Turin, Italy, and has since become known for its attention to detail and use of fine materials. The shirts produced by Camiceria FINOLLO are typically made from high-quality fabrics such as Egyptian cotton, and are handcrafted using traditional tailoring techniques. The brand offers a wide range of styles, from classic and conservative to more modern and fashion-forward designs.
the united states of america
BROOKS BROTHERS
Brooks Brothers is an American clothing brand that was founded in 1818 by Henry Sands Brooks. The company is known for introducing several innovations in menswear, including the ready-to-wear suit and the button-down collar shirt.The button-down collar shirt was introduced by Brooks Brothers in the 1890s, after John E. Brooks, the grandson of the company’s founder, discovered the style while on a trip to England. Brooks Brothers saw the potential of the style for everyday wear, and began producing button-down collar shirts for the American market.The button-down collar shirt quickly became a popular style in the United States, and has since become an iconic piece of American menswear.
Individualized Shirt
Individualized Shirts is an American clothing company that specializes in made-to-measure dress shirts. Founded in 1961 in Perth Amboy, New Jersey, Individualized Shirts has become known for its high-quality, custom-fitted shirts, which are made using traditional tailoring techniques and fine fabrics. The company operates a factory in Fall River, Massachusetts, where its shirts are hand-sewn by skilled artisans. Each shirt is made to order, ensuring a perfect fit for the customer’s body type and preferences. Individualized Shirts also offers a range of other custom clothing options, including sport coats, trousers, and suits.They became famous for making button-down shirts for Brooks Brothers.
GITMAN BROTHERS
In 1932, Brooklyn based shirt-maker Max Gitman left New York and opened the Ashland Shirt & Pajama Company in the coal mining town of Ashland, Pennsylvania. With his two sons, Alfred & Sheldon, he ran the factory as a contract shop until 1978 when the Gitman Bros. brand was born.Today, the company is still family-owned and operated, and its shirts are made in the United States using high-quality materials and traditional tailoring techniques.Gitman Bros. offers a wide range of dress shirts. The company also offers a range of customization options, including collar style, cuff style, and fabric patterns and colors.They are also involved in the OEM of “BAND OF OUTSIDERS”,”THOM BROWNE”and more famous brand.
JAPAN
First shirt manufacturer in Japan since 1876.
YAMATOYA
Yamatoya Shirt Shop opened the first “shirt shop” in Japan in 1876 at Benten Street in Yokohama, and opened shops in New York, Ginza, Kobe, Tianjin. Now they are making a shirt at Ginza Tokyo.
The shirt shop loved by Jiro Shirasu, established in 1930.
TANI SHIRT
TANI SHIRT is an order-made shirt shop with its head office in the Hotel Okura main building. The company was founded in 1930. Currently, branches are opened at the Imperial Hotel and Sapporo Mitsukoshi.
one of a best bespoke shirt manufacturer in Osaka. Est.1986
LES LESTON
LES LESTON has been pursuing the ultimate shirt in Bespoke since its foundation in 1986. It is the one and only shirt produced by the craftsmanship that does not allow any compromise and the modern sensitivity by sticking to made in Japan and craftsmanship for many years.
TEXTILES
Humans and textiles have a long history. Linen, hemp, wool, cotton , of course silk is the best. Today, cotton and linen are the most common materials for shirt. There are many great beautiful fabric brands in the world.
How many brands do you know?
TEXTILE BRAND
メニュー
Carlo Riva
Carlo Riva is an Italian fabric manufacturer with a long history, established in 1871, and continues to produce the world’s finest fabrics, known as jewels.The fabrics are spun in Switzerland, where the water is clean, from carefully selected cotton from Egypt.The finished yarn is not used immediately, but stored in a humidity-controlled warehouse for more than six months, and the matured yarn is then woven at low speed using an old shuttle machine to complete the process.The amount of time and care that goes into the production of these fabrics is the reason why their distribution is extremely low and why they are known as ‘the jewels of fabrics’.
ALBINI
Albini is an Italian textile company with a long and rich history dating back to 1876. The company was founded by Zaffiro Borgomanero, who started out as a small trader in textiles and then expanded into production. In the early 20th century, Albini began exporting its fabrics to the United States and other parts of the world, and by the 1950s, the company had established itself as one of the leading textile producers in Italy.
BONFANTI
Bonfanti Tessuti is an Italian textile company that was founded in 1965 by Alberto Bonfanti. The company is based in Como, a city in northern Italy that is renowned for its textile production.From the beginning, Bonfanti Tessuti has been dedicated to producing high-quality fabrics using the finest materials and the latest technology. The company specializes in the production of luxury shirting fabrics made from cotton, linen, silk, and other natural fibers.Over the years, Bonfanti has established itself as a major player in the textile industry, with a reputation for producing some of the most luxurious and high-quality fabrics available. The company’s fabrics are used by some of the world’s leading fashion houses, and it has also supplied textiles for prestigious hotels, restaurants, and other high-end establishments.
THOMAS MASON
The Thomas Mason fabric mill was founded in 1796 in Leeds, England. The first fabrics were considered top quality and were widely used by West End London tailors to clothe the British aristocracy.Through the 1800s, as Britain’s empire and wealth expanded. Back in Victorian Era London, Jermyn St and Savile Row emerged as a center for fine gentleman’s clothing. During the WW1, the Thomas Mason mill developed new fabrics and treatments, such as waterproofed cotton, that proved vastly helpful to the British cause. In the few decades after the war, aided by the solidification of Savile Row as the international epicenter of elegant gentlemen’s clothing, Thomas Mason transitioned back to producing the finest dress shirt fabrics in the British Empire. In 1936—at the height of English style icon Duke of Windsor’s roguishness—Thomas Mason became the exclusive fabric supplier for Turnbull & Asser, longtime shirt maker of English royalty.In 1992, Italian-based Albini Group acquired Thomas Mason and moved production to Bergamo, Italy where it remains
David & John Anderson
Anderson & Lawrie, founded in 1822 by David Anderson, specialized in gentlemen’s neckwear. In 1839, Alexander Lawrie retired, and David’s brother joined the firm, which became David & John Anderson. By the 1870s, they were headquartered in Glasgow and had works at Atlantic Mills. They became a private limited liability company in 1911, with David Blyth Anderson as the new chairman. After 1911, they absorbed the Glasgow firm of Lambie & Readman and formed links with Wm Hollins & Co Ltd. David & John Anderson (London) Ltd was set up to oversee the export market in high-quality shirts made from Anderson fabrics. Despite their focus on quality, the firm struggled financially and was taken over by House of Fraser Ltd in 1959.And in 1992 David & John Anderson was acquired by the Bergamo-based Albini Group
ALUMO
lumo’s story began in 1918 when Carl Albrecht established a weaving mill with 48 looms, taking advantage of Switzerland’s strong infrastructure in spinning and weaving technology. By 1927, the business had grown to 84 looms and was handed over to Carl’s son. Despite economic crises and the Second World War, Albrecht + Morgen, as it was renamed after Robert Morgen joined the company in 1941, successfully continued operations. Eventually, the name was shortened to Alumo. Since the 1950s, the company has specialized in producing the finest cotton fabrics for shirts, constantly refining their expertise. With over a century of experience, Alumo remains committed to producing high-quality textiles, and their selection of exquisite cotton fabrics is trusted by bespoke tailors and garment manufacturers worldwide, all made to the highest standards of Swiss quality.
CANCLINI
CANCLINI is a textile brand based in Italy that has been operating for over 80 years. The company was founded in 1925 by Giuseppe Canclini in the town of Como, Italy. The company started as a small workshop producing silk fabrics for the local market, but it quickly grew and expanded its product line to include cotton, linen, and wool fabrics as well.During the 1950s and 1960s, CANCLINI became known for its innovative fabrics, which were often used in high-end fashion designs. Today, CANCLINI is a global brand that produces a wide range of fabrics for the fashion, home, and hospitality industries. The company is still based in Como, Italy, and it continues to be family-owned and operated.
Albiate
Albiate 1830 is a textile brand based in Italy that has been in operation for almost two centuries. The company was founded in 1830 in the town of Albiate, near Milan, by Luigi Bigatti. Initially, the company produced fabrics for local markets, but over time it expanded its product range to include a wide variety of textiles. In the 1960s, Albiate 1830 became part of the Gruppo Albini, a family-owned textile group that includes several other prestigious brands.Today, Albiate 1830 is still part of the Gruppo Albini and continues to produce a wide range of fabrics for the fashion and home industries. The company is particularly known for its denim fabrics, which are used by some of the most famous denim brands in the world.
KANEGAFUCHI
Monti
Monti is a textile brand based in Italy that has been operating for over a century. The company was founded in 1911 by Luigi Monti in the town of Cesano Maderno, near Milan. Initially, the company produced high-quality shirting fabrics for the local market, but over time it expanded its product range to include a wide variety of textiles.Monti fabrics are highly regarded by fashion designers around the world for their quality, durability, and innovative design. Some of the most prestigious fashion brands in the world use Monti fabrics in their collections, including Armani, Gucci, Prada, Ralph Lauren, and Zegna, among others.
S.I.C. TESS
Since its foundation in 1924 in Mazate, on the outskirts of Milan, Italy, SICTESS has pursued high quality fabrics as a top quality brand of shirt fabrics.In 2005, SIC TESS became part of the MONTI group, which has a long tradition and shares the same philosophy, and today the SIC TESS brand continues as a division of MONTI.While maintaining the tradition of SIC TESS, the collections are made up of high-quality, classic designs as well as modern designs.
caccioppoli
At the beginning of the 1900s, Vincenzo Caccioppoli decided to leave Naples, together with his eldest son Raffaele, and start importing clothing fabrics from Italy and the United States to Bogotà, Colombia. There, he opened a shop called “Almacén Italia” in Plaza Bolívar. A few years later, his second son, Salvatore, also joined them in Colombia.Around 1920, with the conclusion of the First World War, Vincenzo Caccioppoli and his two sons decided to return to Naples and start a business selling fabrics. This led to the establishment of the historic Caccioppoli shop in the heart of Naples, in Piazza Nicola Amore, which is still the current headquarters of the company.A few years later, Vincenzo’s other two sons, Cosimo and Antonio, also joined the company, leading to the formation of the “F.lli Caccioppoli di V.zo” (Caccioppoli Brothers of Vincenzo).
print & Dye
メニュー
Liberty
UK
Marimekko
FINLAND
finlayson
FINLAND
KAUNISTE
FINLAND
mina perhonen
JAPAN
TEN TO SEN
JAPAN
Borås Cotton
SWEDEN
Klippan
SWEDEN
OTTAIPNU
JAPAN
Somelos
portugal
baird mcnutt
NORTHERN IRELAND
Emblem
NORTHERN IRELAND
Shirt museum
We love the shirts. and We have over hundreds shirt collections.
Please take a look at the personality of each shirt.
And you too can be charmed by the shirt.
Please take a look at the personality of each shirt.
And you too can be charmed by the shirt.
We already stock sample over 1000 shirts from all over the world (including vintage & antiques). We are taking beautiful photos and putting them out, so please wait a while now.
No,98
UNIQLO +J
JAPAN
No,99
BARBA
ITALIA
No,100
HERMES
FRANCE
No,101
LUIGI BORRELLI
ITALIA
No,94
TURNBULL&ASSER VINTAGE
ENGLAND
No,95
T.M.Lewin & Sons VINTAGE
ENGLAND
No,96
BORRIELLO
ITALIA
No,97
WOOLRICH CHAMOIS
USA
No,90
ISAIA
ITALIA
No,91
MASTAI FERRETTI
ITALIA
No,92
INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS
USA
No,93
SONRISA
ITALIA
No,86
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,87
TURNBULL&ASSER VINTAGE
USA
No,88
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,89
GITMAN BROS VINTAGE
USA
No,82
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,83
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,84
L.L.BEAN VINTAGE
USA
No,85
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,77
L.L.BEAN VINTAGE
USA
No,78
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,79
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,81
L.L.BEAN VINTAGE
USA
No,73
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,74
L.L.BEAN VINTAGE
USA
No,75
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,76
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,69
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
No,70
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
ITALIA
No,71
L.L.BEAN VINTAGE
USA
No,72
CLEEVE OF LONDON
ENGLAND
LAST WEEK’S TOP STORIES
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MARGARET HOWELL
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From Tokyo
YAMATOYA
Record Alert! An Early 1957 Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 Just Sold For Over $3.4 Million At Phillips, Smashing The Record For Most Expensive Omega Watch
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From Milano
CARLO RIVA
Record Alert! An Early 1957 Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 Just Sold For Over $3.4 Million At Phillips, Smashing The Record For Most Expensive Omega Watch
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From Paris
JIL SANDER
Record Alert! An Early 1957 Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 Just Sold For Over $3.4 Million At Phillips, Smashing The Record For Most Expensive Omega Watch
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From Tokyo
LES LESTON
Record Alert! An Early 1957 Speedmaster Ref. 2915-1 Just Sold For Over $3.4 Million At Phillips, Smashing The Record For Most Expensive Omega Watch
by Lothario Passero
