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Poplin Or Broad ?

January – 2024 30 MINS READ
In the UK, it’s referred to as poplin, while in the US, the same fabric is known as broadcloth. This intriguing discrepancy in naming reflects the cultural variations within the textile industry. Known for its high quality and refined appearance, this finely and tightly woven fabric is widely used in crafting elegant shirts. Poplin, or broadcloth, began its journey in medieval Europe as a luxury silk fabric, evolving over the centuries to become predominantly cotton-based. In this feature, we will explore the rich and intricate history of this fabric, its historical evolution, unique characteristics, and the reasons behind its differing names across countries.


Troy : The Collar City

In the late 19th century, Troy, New York, became known as “Collar City,” a title earned from its status as a hub for the manufacturing of detachable collars. At that time, clean clothing symbolized social status, and detachable collars offered a practical, hygienic solution. Troy met this new demand, supplying products nationwide, significantly impacting its economy and employing thousands. This study explores how Troy achieved its fame through detachable collar manufacturing and its broader impact.

TARTAN : Weaving And Design

This chapter offers a comprehensive look into tartan weaving and design, an integral part of Scotland’s heritage. Tartan’s journey from a practical cloth to a cultural emblem is as colorful as the patterns themselves. Originating in the Scottish Highlands, tartan was initially used by clans as a means of identification. The chapter discusses how tartan patterns are created, focusing on the techniques of weaving. It explains the role of warp and weft in forming the unique tartan grid and delves into the choice of colors, influenced by natural dyes available historically. The chapter also explores the evolution of tartan designs, affected by both social changes and technological advancements.

Exploring King David & Solomon's Ancient Wardrobes

As we enter the year 2024, I find myself contemplating. The current religious conflicts are not the world I desire, and I hope for peace to prevail soon. We humans have a history of living in perpetual conflict. In particular, I am unsure who is right in the recent issues in Israel. In fact, it seems beyond my understanding. My hope is for the world to quickly find peace. Since I didn’t know much about the Middle East, I have been researching the Kingdom of Israel. In the 2000s, numerous artifacts from the era of Kings David and Solomon were discovered. I have compiled this information.


December – 2023 15 MINS READ
One of the things I find strange about old paintings, especially portraits, is the ‘ruffled collar.’ It is a symbol of wealth and aristocratic splendor, but like the corset, it is also a very peculiar design. Why did it become so popular? This section studies it.Do you find this peculiar, or do you consider it noble?


October – 2023 20 MINS READ
“L.L.Bean” is a leading American brand. It is also my favorite brand. It is an integral part of the history of hunting and outdoor activities. The Maine Jacket, the Chamois Shirt and the Maine Hunting Boots are their signature products. But I have my doubts about the brand. Look back in history and study the old tags.


September – 2023  20 MINS READ
Understanding the difference between “combed(worsted)” and “spun(woolen)” is one of the most difficult things for a layman to grasp when they first start learning about yarn. It took me a long time to understand the difference myself, perhaps because I didn’t have any yarn to experiment with. Without any yarn to see and touch, it can be difficult to understand how it is made. The same is true for other materials, but wool is particularly challenging to understand. However, it is surprising how little-known it is that wool has been a necessity in human life since before Christ. Let’s study the very first part of this story together.



JULY – 2023  20 MINS READ
Marilyn Monroe came to South Korea in February of 1954 while honeymooning in Tokyo with Joe DiMaggio as part of the USO entertainment during the Korean War. Her visit served as an inspiration to soldiers, and when her helicopter touched down and she stepped onto the base, the whole atmosphere changed.The shirt she was wearing was an “OG-108,” which the soldiers called a blanket shirt. (It means a shirt made of thick fabric like a blanket.)


JULY – 2023  20 MINS READ
Do you know the name of the fabric “fustian”? It is not a well-known name today, but it is actually a very important material for the Industrial Revolution, as well as for its long history. The term “fustian” varies from period to period, as there are several combinations of materials used in different periods. In this issue, we will study the relationship between “fustian” and the Industrial Revolution.


August – 2023  30 MINS READ
We tend to focus on ‘invention’ and ‘population’ when talking about the Industrial Revolution. But we must know that history does not happen from those dots, but from a number of multiple factors. We will discuss the most important ‘invention’ in final chapter. Before that, let’s get to know the historical background that happened around it and follow the history of why the Industrial Revolution was able to become a thing in the UK.


August – 2023  20 MINS READ
My research is taking a step back to the basics. I have recently been studying the relatively modern period of the 1800s and 1900s, but I believe that a solid foundation in the history of the shirt begins with the tunic , chiton and toga etc. However, as underwear is not as common in warmer regions, I would like to focus my research on clothing from northern regions this time.This research will surely lead to shirts as underwear.

What is the Difference Between Denim, Chambray & Dungarees?

MAY – 2023  20 MINS READ
Do you know the difference between denim, chambray and dungaree? These fabrics, which are very similar, have differences in the way they are made and their history. This section studies those differences.


JUNE – 2023  20 MINS READ
Lacoste is the most famous polo shirt brand in the world. How has this French brand been created? And what was tennis players RENÉ LACOSTE live through? Here we study the world’s best polo shirt – Lacoste.


JULY – 2023  20 MINS READ
You will no longer be able to get your hands on a Pendleton shirt. Some would argue that this is not true. To be precise, Pendleton shirts and trousers will still be in the shops every winter. T-shirts with the logo may even be on sale. However, they are licensed products produced in Asia. Whether that is genuine or fake depends on the person. But I feel that only shirts made in the USA on American-made Pendleton fabric and sewn in the USA have any meaning.

The history of "Cone denim" up until its bankruptcy

JULY – 2023  20 MINS READ
If you like “Jeans”, you have probably heard of the denim fabric made by the Cone company. The Cone Mills Corporation was an American textile manufacturing company. It produced cotton fabrics such as corduroy, flannel and denim. Headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003; it was bought out in 2004 and its last White Oak mill closed.


The fabric we currently call “Viyella” is not real “Viyella”. “Viyella” is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England,and soon to be the “first branded fabric in the world”. It was made of 55 % Lambs wool and 45 % Egyptian cotton in a twill weave,developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co, spinners and hosiers.


April – 2023  20 MINS READ
Today, we’re going to explore the history of clothing from a unique perspective. Over in Tokyo, there’s this fascinating exhibition called the “DEMI DECONSTRUCTION = Half Decomposition Exhibition 半分解展 ” by a chap called Mr Akiyoshi Hasegawa, who’s a garment specimenist. He showcases his expertise by deconstructing over a century-old piece of clothing by snapping it in half to examine its structure and shape. Now, I know this may seem unrelated to shirts, but I invite you to immerse yourself in the dynamic shifts of fashion that have taken place throughout history. It’s been a bumpy ride, but one that’s worth exploring.

The world's best cotton has disappeared

April – 2023  20 MINS READ
The muslin fabric featured in Marie-Antoinette’s portraits. The sheer, transparent fabric fascinated European aristocrats. And the lost world best beautiful fabric “Dhaka Muslin” from Mughal Empire (Now Bangladesh) , They can no longer be reproduced. The craftsmen who made the delicate fabric had their fingers chopped off by the British man.

What is the paisley pattern?

MAY – 2023  20 MINS READ
Where did the paisley pattern come from? The paisley pattern can be attributed to several theories when tracing its origins. Which is the correct one? And did you know that the name paisley also has nothing specific to do with the pattern?

What is the "Turnbull Cut" means

Turnbull & Asser, the world’s most famous and legendary shirt maker, is one of the oldest and most respected British companies. Its name has always meant shirts of the highest quality in the world of men’s fashion.And they have their own collar form. And English gentlemen love it. Here we introduce what the traditional “Turnbull Cut” collar.

Who invented the button-down ?

April – 2023  20 MINS READ
General history of the button-down shirt. “The button-down shirt was invented by Brooks Brothers.”  ”They were made after seeing the collars of polo players.” But the pictures I found show that before they discovered the button-down shirt (in the UK before 1896), it was already being worn by athletes in other sports. Now where is the truth?

Liberty & co with William Morris and the Arts & Crafts Movement.

William Morris was one of the most important designers to work with Liberty, and his designs were a major influence on the company’s aesthetic. Morris and Liberty were both associated with the Arts and Crafts movement, and their shared commitment to high-quality, handcrafted goods made them natural collaborators. Morris’s designs were an important part of the Liberty & Co. product line, and they helped to establish the company’s reputation for innovative, high-quality textile design.

Pinch out the dough from the slashing.

Slashing was a popular fashion trend in the 16th century and was often used in the design of men’s and women’s shirts, as well as other garments like doublets and sleeves. The slashes were usually arranged in a symmetrical or geometric pattern and were often filled with contrasting fabrics, such as brightly colored silks or linens.
“what are you most interested in? “
I am exploring the history of tartan out of personal interest. I will be updating my findings gradually. As the discussion progresses, various stories might intersect at the final point, but please understand that this is part of my research and organization process. I am slowly delving into the history of tartan, one of the world’s most cherished patterns.

Weaving And Design

This chapter offers a comprehensive look into tartan weaving and design, an integral part of Scotland’s heritage. Tartan’s journey from a practical cloth to a cultural emblem is as colorful as the patterns themselves. Originating in the Scottish Highlands, tartan was initially used by clans as a means of identification. The chapter discusses how tartan patterns are created, focusing on the techniques of weaving. It explains the role of warp and weft in forming the unique tartan grid and delves into the choice of colors, influenced by natural dyes available historically. The chapter also explores the evolution of tartan designs, affected by both social changes and technological advancements.

tartan topics

ART OF Tartan

You are all likely familiar with the long history of tartan, but have you ever delved into its true origins and enduring appeal? What is it about this pattern and its colors that captivates us so? While some might consider certain aspects of tartan traditional or even old-fashioned, its significance and style continue to resonate, especially around this time of year. Welcome to a special feature in Highcollar Magazine, where we embark on a journey to uncover the fascinating truths behind tartan checks

Why Scots love KILT

Tartan is a symbol of Scottish pride and culture, and is still loved by many people today.Tartan is a type of woolen cloth with a checkered pattern. It is traditionally associated with Scottish clans, and each clan has its own unique tartan pattern. Kilts are made from tartan, and they are a traditional Scottish garment. Tartan has a long history, dating back to the 16th century in the Highlands. Originally, tartan was a symbol of Highland clans, but it eventually became a symbol of Scotland as a whole. However, in the 18th century, Scotland came under British rule, and tartan was banned, leading to its decline. After the ban was lifted in 1782, tartan began to be seen again. During WWI, Scottish soldiers were known for their bravery, and were even called “The Ladies of the Battlefield” by the German army.


The earliest surviving sample of tartan fabric was found in a cemetery in the Tarim Basin, China. It dates back to around 1200 B.C. and is made of kemp, the coarse outer hair of a sheep or goat. The fabric is similar to Scottish tartan of the 17th century, suggesting that these two cultures may have had a common ancestor.It means that the tartan also crossed over to the east. Let’s look at a piece of history.

The Oldest Tartan In Scotland

The 1933 discovery of the Falkirk Tartan in Scotland offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient weaving techniques and the cultural interactions of the Romans and Celts. This research aims to explore the textile’s unique weaving style and its historical significance, highlighting its role in understanding Scotland’s pre-Roman Iron Age traditions and cultural heritage.



The island of Britain during the Roman Empire represents a significant part of the ancient world in terms of its extensive history and cultural complexity. From the Roman conquest in AD 43, through nearly four centuries of dominion, Britain underwent profound geopolitical and cultural transformations. This paper delves into the societal, economic, and cultural aspects of Britain under Roman rule, revealing how the influence of ancient Rome intricately wove the threads of Britain’s historical tapestry. Understanding the entire formation of the Kingdom of Scotland is essential before discussing “tartan,” a symbol deeply intertwined with Scottish identity and heritage.


When I lived in Ireland, I often heard the words ‘Celtic’ and ‘Gaelic.’ At that time, I didn’t have much interest in ethnicity or culture, so I simply thought that they had beautiful patterns and a history. As I delved into the history of fabrics and patterns, I realized the significance of ethnic classification. This time, I conducted research on another ethnic group, the ‘Gaelic,’ which played a role in the origins of the Scottish people. Considering its connection to conflicts with the Picts and its contribution to the formation of the Kingdom of Alba, which ultimately leads to the clans of the Scottish people, this becomes a highly important field, differentiating the noble clans, in other words, the tartan patterns


Exploring the Hidden History and Culture of the Ancient Picts of Scotland: From the Meaning Behind Their Tattoos to Their Lost Language and Mysterious Stone Carvings – A Journey into the Lives, Beliefs, and Enigmatic Monuments and Art Left by the Picts. Unraveling Their Connections with the Celts and Their Conflicts with the Roman Empire, and Examining How the Legacy of the Picts Influences Modern Scotland. Understanding the entire formation of the Kingdom of Scotland is essential before discussing “tartan,” a symbol deeply intertwined with Scottish identity and heritage.


I initially thought that Scotland, including its connections to Ireland, was a Gaelic nation. Of course, that’s not entirely wrong, but it’s not entirely correct either. This is because I thought that the Kingdom of Dál Riata eroded and integrated the Pictish Kingdom, but it seems it was the Picts who eroded Dál Riata. The Scottish king ‘Kenneth MacAlpin’ (in Gaelic, Coinneach mac Ailpein) is an important figure in this respect. And this unification leads to the formation of Scotland.
Shirt museum

We already stock sample over 1000 shirts from all over the world (including vintage & antiques). We are taking beautiful photos and putting them out, so please wait a while now.

” There is more… so keep an look on this my collections.”
The history of the shirt is very rarely discussed. It is almost never exposed because it is not a fancy item that appears on the surface of clothing like the “Habit à la française” “suit” “jacket” “gilet” and “piece d’estomac” “bustle” (only the period before and after the ruff (collar) is special). The main reason for this is that it originally served as underwear. Let’s unravel the history of these enigmatic shirts together. I am convinced then you will like the “shirt” even more.
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