THE FIBER
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Text By KATS TANAKA
RAMIE
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant.Linen is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and Ramie (pronounced: /ˈreɪmi/, RAY-mee; from Malay rami) is a flowering plant in the nettle family Urticaceae, native to eastern Asia. It is a herbaceous perennial growing to 1.0–2.5 m tall the leaves are heart-shaped, 7–15 cm , long and 6–12 cm broad, and white on the underside with dense, small hairs—this gives it a silvery appearance; unlike stinging nettles, the hairs do not sting. The true ramie or China grass is also called Chinese plant or white ramie.A second type, known as green ramie or rhea, is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninsula. It has smaller leaves which are green on the underside, and it appears to be better suited to tropical conditions. The word “ramie” is derived from the Malay word rami.is valued for use in garments. It also has other distinctive characteristics, notably its tendency to wrinkle.
苧環（ramie）は、東アジア原産のイラクサ科の顕花植物です。葉は長さ7-15cm、幅6-12cmのハート型で、裏面は白色、小さな毛が密生しており、これが銀色のように見えます。もう一つのタイプは、グリーンラミーまたはレアと呼ばれ、マレー半島が原産地と考えられている。葉が小さく、裏側が緑色をしており、熱帯の環境に適しているようである。ラミー」の語源はマレー語の「rami」です。
Ramie fiber, also known as China grass, is derived from the stem of the ramie plant, which is a member of the nettle family. The fiber is long, fine, and lustrous, and has a natural resistance to bacteria and mildew.In ancient China, ramie was used to make high-quality textiles for the aristocracy, including robes, hats, and handkerchiefs. It was also used for papermaking, and was considered a valuable commodity for trade. Ramie production in China was highly developed, with extensive cultivation and processing techniques that involved soaking, beating, and bleaching the fibers.
Ramie production spread to other parts of Asia, including Japan and Korea, where it was used for similar applications. In the 18th and 19th centuries, ramie was introduced to Europe and the Americas, where it was used primarily for industrial applications such as cordage and sailcloth. In the 20th century, with the development of new processing techniques, ramie fiber became more widely used in the textile industry, particularly for lightweight summer clothing, household textiles, and apparel linings. However, ramie fiber production has remained relatively small compared to other natural fibers such as cotton and linen, due to its high cost and the labor-intensive processing required to extract the fiber from the plant.
There are many poems and inscriptions in Japan’s Manyoshu (Anthology of Myriad Leaves) and Nihon-shoki (Chronicles of Japan), and the clothing of the period in the Shosoin storehouse shows that it was used by a wide class of people, from the imperial family to the common people.
苧麻（からむし）繊維は別名チャイナグラスとも呼ばれ茎から採取されます。繊維は長く、細く、光沢があり、細菌やカビに対する自然な抵抗力があります。古代中国では苧麻は貴族の衣服や帽子、ハンカチなどの高級織物の材料として使われていました。また、製紙にも使われ交易品としても重宝されました。中国では苧麻の栽培が非常に発達しており、繊維を浸す、叩く、漂白するなどの加工技術も発達していました。苧麻の生産は日本や韓国などアジア各地に広まり同じような用途に使われるようになりました。
日本の万葉集や日本書紀には多くの歌や碑文があり、正倉院にある当時の衣服は皇室から庶民まで幅広い層が利用していたことがわかります。日本では「苧(からむし)」「真苧(まお)」などと呼ばれていました。大正時代に中国から多量の苧麻が輸入されるようになり、改良種が栽培されるようになってからは苧麻(ちょま)と呼ばれるようになりました。水にも強いので，ロープ，消火ホースなどにすることもあります。また織物とくに夏着として優れ、茎から靱皮繊維をとり、その繊維で織った布を上布（じようふ）と呼びます。越後上布，小千谷縮（ちぢみ），宮古上布などが特に有名でそれぞれ産地によって特色があります。
18世紀から19世紀にかけて、苧麻はヨーロッパやアメリカ大陸に伝わり、主に紐や帆布などの工業用として使用されることになります。20世紀には新しい加工技術の開発によりラミー繊維は繊維産業で広く使われるようになります。特に軽量の夏物衣料、家庭用繊維、衣料用裏地などに使われるようになりました。しかしラミー繊維は高価なうえ繊維を取り出すのに手間がかかるため綿や麻などの他の天然繊維に比べて生産量は相対的に少ないままで現在に至っています。
Etymology
It is believed to have been used for textile production in China for more than 5,000 years. Ramie is native to eastern Asia, and archaeological evidence shows that it was grown and used for textiles in China during the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 BC). Ramie cultivation and use in China continued through the centuries, and it became an important part of their textile industry. Ramie fiber was likely introduced to Europe in the early 19th century, when it was brought over from Asia by European traders and explorers. However, it did not become a major commercial crop in Europe and other parts of the world until the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
The word “ramie” is derived from the Malay word “rami,” which means “fiber” or “yarn.” Ramie fiber comes from the Boehmeria nivea plant, which is native to eastern Asia and is widely cultivated for its strong and durable fibers.
“ramie”の語源は、マレー語で “繊維 “や “糸 “を意味する “rami “に由来します。苧麻の繊維は、東アジア原産のBoehmeria niveaという植物から採れ、丈夫で耐久性のある繊維として広く栽培されています。もう一つの説として「ラミー繊維」を意味するフランス語の「rami」に由来しさらに「植物の一種」を意味するスペイン語の「ramio」にも由来している可能性もあります。
Egyptian mummies
Ramie, also known as China grass, is a fiber crop that has been cultivated in Egypt since ancient times. It was used to produce fabrics for clothing and other textiles. In fact, ramie fibers have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs and are mentioned in Egyptian papyri (While both linen and ramie were used to make fabrics in ancient Egypt, linen was the most commonly used material for wrapping mummies. Ramie, which is also known as China grass, was occasionally used for mummy wrappings, but it was not as widely available or as commonly used as linen. However, some ancient Egyptian textiles made from ramie have been discovered, and they were prized for their strength and luster.). Ramie cultivation in Egypt has fluctuated over time, but it remains an important crop in some areas. According to a 2017 study published in the Journal of Cleaner Production, ramie cultivation in Egypt has potential for sustainable development due to its environmental benefits, including its ability to reduce soil erosion and improve soil quality.
Ancient Egyptian costume. Mainly linen, but there are traces of ramie being used in part.
The word ‘antiu’ was marked on the jar found this time for mummy creation, indicating that it contained a mixture of different substances, including animal fat, cedar oil and juniper resin. Some of the materials used were transported from quite far away, such as damar and elemi, a type of resin from the rainforests of South-East Asia./ photo by Pixabay
Ramie, also known as China grass, is a fiber crop that has been cultivated in Egypt since ancient times. It was used to produce fabrics for clothing and other textiles. In fact, ramie fibers have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs and are mentioned in Egyptian papyri (While both linen and ramie were used to make fabrics in ancient Egypt, linen was the most commonly used material for wrapping mummies. Ramie, which is also known as China grass, was occasionally used for mummy wrappings, but it was not as widely available or as commonly used as linen. However, some ancient Egyptian textiles made from ramie have been discovered, and they were prized for their strength and luster.). Ramie cultivation in Egypt has fluctuated over time, but it remains an important crop in some areas. According to a 2017 study published in the Journal of Cleaner Production, ramie cultivation in Egypt has potential for sustainable development due to its environmental benefits, including its ability to reduce soil erosion and improve soil quality.
苧麻はチャイナグラス(中国草)とも呼ばれていますが、エジプトでも古くから栽培されている繊維作物です。衣料品などの繊維の生産に利用されていました。実際、古代エジプトの墓からは苧麻の繊維が発見されており、エジプトのパピルスにも記載されています（古代エジプトではリネンも苧麻も織物の材料として使われていましたが、ミイラを包む材料としてはリネンが最も一般的に使われていました。苧麻はミイラを包む布として使われることもあったがリネンほどには広く普及せず一般的に使われることはありませんでした。しかし、古代エジプトでは苧麻を使った織物がいくつか発見されておりその強度と光沢が珍重されていた形跡はあります)。エジプトにおける苧麻の栽培は時代とともに変動していますが、一部の地域では依然として重要な作物となっています。2017年にJournal of Cleaner Productionに掲載された研究によると、エジプトにおけるラミー栽培は、土壌侵食の抑制や土壌品質の改善など、環境面でのメリットがあるため、持続可能な開発の可能性があるとされています。
エジプト文明と東南アジアの苧麻の関係についてですが、苧麻は約5000年前に中国で初めて栽培化されたとされており、その後東南アジアなどを経由(野草としては東南アジアの方が先)世界各地に広まりやがてエジプトにも伝わったとされています。苧麻の繊維や織物は中国と地中海世界を結ぶ古代シルクロードで取引されており、古代エジプト人はこの貿易網を通じて東南アジアの苧麻を入手したと思われます。また古代エジプト人は海上交易を通じて東南アジアと接触した証拠もあり、東南アジアから直接苧麻を入手した可能性もあります。全体として苧麻がどのような経路でエジプトに到着したかは定かではありませんが古代エジプト文明と東南アジアの苧麻との間につながりがあったことは明らかです。
HISTORY
Ramie has been grown in China for many centuries, and farmers in ancient China are known to have used the fiber to weave clothing. In China, it is called zhù má (苎麻). It may have been used in cloth for wrapping mummies in Egypt. Though ramie and flax are difficult to distinguish from one another in ancient cloth, ramie’s resistance to bacteria and mildew would make it appropriate for mummy wrapping.
Taiwan’s aboriginal people have used ramie for millennia in fabric production and ramie is still used to create traditional garb which is worn in the festivals which have not been banned (mostly related to decapitation and stabbing enemy captives).
Ramie was used to produce an open-weave fabric called mechera, used for shirts and dressing gowns suitable for warm climates. The French painter Raoul Dufy designed in the early 20th century patterns for prints on mechera used by the French shirtmaker Charvet.
Brazil began production in the late 1930s with production peaking in 1971. Since then, production has steadily declined as a result of competition from alternative crops, such as soybeans, and from synthetic fibers.
RAMIE TEXTILE : A Neolithic site on the lower reaches of the Yangtze River in China.
中国では古くから苧麻が栽培されており、古代中国の農民は苧麻の繊維で衣服を織っていたことが知られています。中国では、「苎麻」と呼ばれています。エジプトではミイラを包む布に使われていたようだ。古代の布では苧麻と亜麻の区別がつきにくいが、苧麻は細菌やカビに強いので、ミイラを包むのに適していると考えられる。
台湾の原住民は何千年も前から苧麻を布の生産に使っており、今でも苧麻を使って伝統的な衣服を作り、禁止されていない祭事（主に敵の捕虜の首を切ったり刺したりすることに関連する）で着ています。苧麻はメシェラという透かし織りの布にも使われ、温暖な気候に適したシャツやドレッシングガウンに使われました。20世紀初頭、フランスの画家ラウル・デュフィは、フランスのシャツメーカー、シャルベが使用したメシェラのプリント柄をデザインしています。
ブラジルは1930年代後半に生産を開始し、1971年に生産量がピークに達した。その後、大豆などの代替作物や合成繊維との競合により、生産量は減少の一途をたどっている。
During the BC era, Chinese peasants wore clothing made from a variety of natural fibers including hemp, silk, and cotton, as well as plant-based fibers such as ramie and nettle. The type of clothing worn by peasants varied depending on the region, the time period, and the social status of the individual.
In general, ancient Chinese peasant clothing was simple and practical, designed to provide protection from the elements and to facilitate labor. The clothing was often made of unbleached or undyed fabric and was typically loose-fitting and comfortable to wear. For example, in the Qin and Han dynasties (221 BC to 220 AD), men wore a long, tunic-like garment called a zhongyi, while women wore a long skirt and a jacket.
During the Warring States period (475 BC to 221 BC), common people typically wore garments made of hemp or cotton. Hemp was a common fiber for clothing in ancient China due to its durability and resistance to wear and tear. In later periods, cotton became more prevalent and was often mixed with silk for a softer and more comfortable feel.
Ramie was also used in ancient China for clothing, particularly in the southern regions of the country. Ramie fibers are strong and durable, making it an ideal material for clothing, although it is less soft and flexible than silk or cotton. While there are no surviving examples of ancient Chinese peasant clothing made of ramie, it is believed to have been a common material for everyday clothing.
紀元前の中国の農民は、麻、絹、木綿などの天然繊維や、苧麻、イラクサなどの植物性繊維でできた衣服を着ていた。農民の衣服は、地域や時代、個人の社会的地位によってさまざまな種類があった。一般に、古代中国の農民の衣服は、風雨から身を守り、労働を容易にするために作られた、シンプルで実用的なものであった。無漂白、無染色の布が使われ、ゆったりとした着心地のものが多かった。例えば、秦漢時代（紀元前221年〜紀元220年）には、男性は「中衣」と呼ばれるチュニック風の長衣を、女性はロングスカートと上着を身に着けていた。戦国時代（紀元前475年〜紀元前221年）には、庶民は麻や木綿の衣服が一般的であった。麻は丈夫で破れにくいため、古代中国では一般的な衣料用繊維であった。後の時代には綿が普及し、よりソフトで快適な肌触りのために絹と混合されることが多くなりました。苧麻もまた、古代中国、特に南方地方で衣服に使われていました。苧麻の繊維は丈夫で耐久性があり、衣服の材料としては理想的だが、絹や綿に比べると柔らかさや柔軟性には欠ける。古代中国の農民服で苧麻を使ったものは現存していないが、日常着としては一般的な素材であったと思われる。
Facts About the Burial of Qin Shi Huangdi
Ramie was used for clothing during the Qin dynasty, which was the period of Qin Shi Huang’s reign (221 BC to 210 BC). During this time, ramie fabric was prized for its fine texture, light weight, and durability, making it a popular choice for clothing among people of all social classes.
During the Qin dynasty, ramie fabric was used to make a variety of garments, including tunics, robes, and trousers. The fabric was often dyed in a range of colors, although bright or bold colors were generally reserved for members of the nobility and the emperor’s court.
The clothing worn by ordinary people during the Qin dynasty consisted of loose-fitting tunics and trousers that were fastened with belts or sashes. These garments were designed to be comfortable and practical, allowing people to move and work freely. The clothing was often undecorated, with few or no embellishments, and was designed to be easy to repair or replace.
Overall, ramie was an important textile during the Qin dynasty, and its use in clothing reflected the practical, functional approach to fashion that was common during that period. Its lightweight, durable, and breathable properties made it an ideal choice for clothing for people of all social classes, including the ordinary people who made up the vast majority of the population.
苧麻は秦の始皇帝の時代（紀元前221年～紀元前210年）に衣服として使用された。この時代、苧麻はきめが細かく、軽くて丈夫なため、あらゆる階層の人々の間で衣服として珍重された。秦の時代、苧麻はチュニックやローブ、ズボンなどさまざまな衣服の材料として使われた。苧麻はさまざまな色に染められますが、鮮やかな色や大胆な色は、貴族や宮廷にのみ許されるものでした。秦の時代の一般庶民の衣服は、ゆったりとしたチュニックとベルトや帯で締めるズボンが中心であった。これらの衣服は、快適で実用的であり、自由に動き、働くことができるようにデザインされていた。また、装飾はほとんどなく、修理や交換が容易なように設計されています。苧麻は秦の時代に重要な織物であり、その衣服への使用は、当時一般的だったファッションへの実用的、機能的なアプローチを反映しています。軽量で耐久性があり、通気性に優れているため、人口の大半を占める庶民をはじめ、あらゆる階層の人々の衣服として理想的な素材でした。
