1690s, from French serge de Nîmes “serge from Nîmes,” town in southern France. Originally a kind of serge; application to “coarse, colored, twilled cotton cloth” is by 1850 in American English. Denims “pants made of denim” is recorded from 1868; originally typically overalls. The place name is Roman Nemausus, said to be ultimately from Gaulish nemo “sanctuary.”
Located in the Occitanie region of Southern France, serves as the prefecture of the Gard department. Situated between the Mediterranean Sea and the Cévennes, this bustling commune is home to approximately 148,561 people (as of 2019). Renowned as the most Roman city outside Italy, Nîmes boasts a captivating history that traces back to the days of the Roman Empire when it served as a regional capital with a population of 50,000 to 60,000. The city of Nîmes features several famous monuments, including the impressive Arena of Nîmes and the well-preserved Maison Carrée, earning it the moniker “French Rome.” However, Nîmes endured its fair share of challenges throughout the centuries. During the 14th and 15th centuries, the Rhone Valley faced a relentless wave of invasions that led to economic ruin, famine, religious conflicts (such as the French Wars of Religion), and devastating epidemics. Nîmes, being a stronghold for Protestants, faced severe repression and internal strife, including the tragic Michelade massacre, which persisted until the mid-17th century. The city also endured periodic outbreaks of plague, further adding to its misery. However, in the mid-17th century, Nîmes experienced a period of prosperity. The population surged, prompting the expansion of the town and the replacement of slum housing. Notable construction projects from this time include the reconstruction of Notre-Dame-Saint-Castor, the Bishop’s palace, and numerous mansions (hôtels). This renaissance period bolstered the city’s manufacturing and industrial capabilities, resulting in a population surge from 21,000 to 50,000 inhabitants. Additionally, during this era, the picturesque Fountain gardens, known as the Quais de la Fontaine, were created. The areas surrounding the Maison Carrée and the Amphitheatre were cleared of encroachments, and the general prosperity benefited the entire population of Nîmes.Denim, the fabric of blue jeans, derives its name from this city (Serge de Nîmes). The blue dye was imported via Genoa from Lahore the capital of the Great Mughal.
– The jean is a cotton serge twill-weave fabric with warp and weft threads of the same colour. – Denim is also a cotton serge, but is characterised by an indigo blue warp yarn that is not throughly dyed and an ecru(unbleached linenthe or colour of unbleached linen=shade of beige) weft yarn.
Since the Middle Ages, the City of Nîmes has developed high-quality and very economical textile products. Serge is one of them. This twilled fabric, whose oblique crossed weave (twice above and once below) gives it a more resistant character than canvas, has been used on a large scale for everyday clothing and furnishings. There are different types of serge whose names, given by merchants and manufacturers, served to identify their quality, and their place of invention and manufacture. Nîmes serge is thus a textile appellation based on the name of its region of origin. But it is manufactured throughout southern France, as is the case with the royal manufacture of Sieur Ayrolles in Carcassonne. Nîmes serge is renowned as far away as England from the end of the 17th century. Mystery hovers over the origin of the denim appellation which has fuelled many legends, including the Nîmes origin of denim. The first point to clarify is a question of vocabulary:
This combination, for the sake of economy, explains its natural and progressive fading after washing. – Jeans, an abbreviation of the American expression “a pair of jeans”, is a precisely shaped pair of trousers made of denim. It is likely that time has created confusion between the two types of fabric (jean and denim) and their respective names. Fustian (twill fabric of wool and cotton, or wool and linen) such as the Genoese twill, also known as jean or jeane, were made from the 16th century onwards. From the 18th century, cotton will be preferred to wool for the manufacture of fabrics. The Lancashire region rapidly produces and distributes jean on a large scale. It is therefore normal to see jean and denim produced in the United States from the earliest developments in the cotton industry.
late 14c., sarge, in reference to a woolen cloth in use in the Middle Ages, apparently of a coarse texture, from Old French sarge, serge (12c.), Medieval Latin sargium, sargea “cloth of wool mixed with silk or linen,” from Vulgar Latin *sarica, from Latin serica (vestis) “silken (garment),” from serica, from Greek serikē, fem. of serikos “silken”
Silk serge has a rich historical association with Greece and France. Evidence of this can be seen in the discovery of a piece of silk serge, dyed with Byzantine motifs, found in Charlemagne( 768 – 814)’s tomb. It is believed to have been a gift from the Byzantine Imperial Court during the 8th or 9th century AD. The term “serge” also refers to a form of silk twill that was produced in the early Renaissance, particularly in or around Florence. This type of serge was commonly used for clerical cassocks. A mention of this can be found in Miguel de Cervantes’ Don Quixote, where the character expresses delight in finding a cassock made of the finest Florentine serge.
I am more pleased to have found it than anyone had given me a Cassock of the best Florentine serge
— The Curate, in Miguel de Cervantes, Don Quixote, Book I, Chapter VI
In early Saxon times, the majority of English wool was exported. During the 16th century, it was sent to a Royal monopoly in Calais, which was then under English control, and woven into cloth in France or the Low Countries. However, when the French took possession of Calais in 1558, England began to develop its own weaving industry. The European Wars of Religion, including the Eighty Years’ War and the French Wars of Religion, played a significant role in this expansion. Skilled serge weavers, including Calvinist refugees from the Low Countries in 1567, and silk and linen weavers, including Huguenot refugees in the early 18th century, contributed to the growth of England’s weaving industry. Wool worsted serges have been known since the 12th century, and modern serges are typically made with a worsted warp and a woollen weft.
According to one theory , The shepherds in the Cévennes mountains, located northwest of Nîmes, were credited with the creation of a durable fabric known as serge. This twill weave fabric originated as a blend of wool and silk. The shepherds ingeniously combined indigo yarns and threads with white silk and wool, utilizing the abundant resources available in the mountains. The resulting cloth proved sturdy enough to withstand their demanding work, making it an ideal choice for their attire.
From 1778, John Hargrove, an Irish émigré living in Baltimore, probably a weaver who became a minister in the Methodist Episcopal Church, will play a major role in the development of the American textile industry (Weavers Draft and Clothiers Assistant). His treatise on weaving lists 9 variations of jeans and 3 of denim. In the 19th century, jean and denim are still two different fabrics and their production increased throughout the 19th century following the development of the American industry. The well-cut and durable trousers are made in jean. Three main products will emerge in the United States: dungarees (overalls), trousers and jackets.
The French word “denim” is another of the words with an interesting history. It started out as the French term ‘serge de nîmes’, referring to a specific serge cloth which was manufactured in Nimes, and the term came into English in the 1600s as “serge denim” and then “serge denim”. The use of denim by itself , to refer to coarse cotton cloth in American English, date from about 1850.Then denim migrated back to French. as an anglicisme, in the 1970’s as the name for the cloth used to manufacture jeans.
Priestley’s “Huguenot” Cloth Fashions ©The Canadian Magazine, Toronto: Ontario Publishing Co. Ltd., Vol. XXIX, No 6, October 1907, p. 37.
Priestley’s unrivalled dyeing and finishing have produced a cloth sure of immediate appeal to the present day’s demand. “Huguenot” Cloth contains all the durability and close texture of the old-time serge, with the soft, rich, draping qualifies of a French cashmere. Colors include the latest shades, rich tints of red, green, blue, brown, and new evening shades.
This is kind of gingham fabric used for women’s gowns, 1801, alteration of Cambrai, city in France (formerly Flanders) where the cloth originally was made.cambric is type of thin, fine linen, late 14c., from Dutch Kamerijk or Flemish Kameryk, Germanic forms of French Cambrai, name of the city in northern France where the cloth was said to have been first manufactured. The modern form of the English word has elements from both versions of the name. The place-name is from Latin Camaracum, according to Room from the personal name Camarus, “itself apparently from Latin cammarus ‘a crawfish, prawn’ …. It is not known who this was.”
Cambrai, town, Nord département, Hauts-de-France région, northern France. It lies along the Escaut River, south of Roubaix. The town was called Camaracum under the Romans, and its bishops were made counts by the German king Henry I in the 10th century. Cambrai was long a bone of contention among its neighbours—the counties of Flanders and Hainaut, the kingdom of France, and the Holy Roman Empire—and it frequently changed hands. The League of Cambrai was an alliance (1508) against Venice formed by Pope Julius II, Louis XII, Ferdinand II of Aragon (and united Spain), and the emperor Maximilian I. The treaty between the Holy Roman emperor Charles V and Francis I of France was signed at Cambrai in 1529. Cambrai eventually was assigned to France by the Treaty of Nijmegen (1678). The town’s former cathedral was destroyed in 1793 after the French Revolution, and the town’s present cathedral of Notre Dame was built in the 19th century.
Before 1914 Cambrai had a prosperous textile economy based on a fine cloth called cambric. Occupied by the Germans during both World Wars and twice ravaged, the town has been revived. Cambrai now serves as a commercial and administrative centre and has a branch of the University of Valenciennes. The town lies amid a farming district rich in sugar beets, flax, grain, cattle feed, cattle, and dairy products. Historic buildings and the Fine Arts Museum have helped develop tourism. Industry includes woodworking, food processing, building, and the manufacture of textiles and construction equipment. Pop. (1999) 33,738; (2014 est.) 32,897.
The siege of Cambrai (March-April 1677) was part of the War of Devolution, led by Louis XIV to pay for the dowry that he claimed was his by right from his marriage to Maria Theresa of Austria in fortresses. It was in fact a question of consolidating the north-eastern border of the Kingdom by anticipating the doctrine of the “pré carré” which was enunciated by Vauban in 1673, a doctrine which advocated the adoption – by force or discussion – of a rectilinear border. Indeed, the north-eastern border was burdened with fortified towns (Cambrai, Tournai, Lille, Charleroi, etc.) which were all foreign thorns threatening the tranquillity of the territory. The frontier was a real Swiss cheese with holes occupied by the forces of the Habsburg Empire.
In 1667, under the blows of Louis XIV’s army, Spain gave up a dozen places, but the border was still not secured. Two Spanish salient points remained: between Saint-Omer and Ypres; between Valenciennes and Cambrai. In 1672, hostilities resume against the Netherlands. Valenciennes was stormed in March 1677. The same month, the king himself laid siege to Cambrai, which remained geographically isolated. In the weeks that followed, the city’s fortifications were taken one after the other. On 17 April, the wounded Spanish governor decided to capitulate. With the treaty of Nimègue of August 10, 1678, the town of Cambrai is definitively attached to the kingdom of France.
Prise de Cambrai par Louis XIV le 5 avril 1677
The term “blue collar” originated in 1924 when it was used to describe trades jobs in an Alden, Iowa newspaper. The term was inspired by the attire of manual workers who often wore blue denim or chambray shirts as part of their work uniforms. These workers, employed in industrial and manual labor, commonly wore durable canvas or cotton clothing that could become soiled during their tasks. The choice of navy and light blue colors for their attire was practical, as these shades helped conceal potential dirt or grease, making the workers appear cleaner. To protect their clothing, many blue collar workers also wore boilersuits, which are often designed in blue. In some cases, blue collar workers sport uniforms that bear the name of the business or the individual’s name, either embroidered or printed on the clothing. Throughout history, the color blue has been associated with manual laborers, in contrast to the preference for white dress shirts among those working in office environments. This blue collar/white collar color scheme carries socio-economic class implications. However, with the growing significance of skilled labor and the rise of low-paying white-collar jobs, this distinction has become increasingly blurred.In 1667, under the blows of Louis XIV’s army, Spain gave up a dozen places, but the border was still not secured. Two Spanish salient points remained: between Saint-Omer and Ypres; between Valenciennes and Cambrai. In 1672, hostilities resume against the Netherlands. Valenciennes was stormed in March 1677. The same month, the king himself laid siege to Cambrai, which remained geographically isolated. In the weeks that followed, the city’s fortifications were taken one after the other. On 17 April, the wounded Spanish governor decided to capitulate. With the treaty of Nimègue of August 10, 1678, the town of Cambrai is definitively attached to the kingdom of France. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Sears; [catalog] Spring 1910 (no.120)
Sears; [catalog] Spring 1922 (no.144)
Sears; Golden jubilee catalog 1936
“A coarse cotton stuff, generally blue, worn by sailors” [Century Dictionary, 1897], 1610s, dongerijns, from Hindi dungrii (दुंगरी) “coarse calico,” said to be from the name of a village, now one of the quarters of Bombay. Dungarees “trousers made of dungaree” is by 1868.
In Japan, “dungaree” refers to twill weave fabrics using “white threads for the warp and coloured threads for the weft”. Basically, in woven fabrics, “the warp threads appear on the front side of the fabric” and “the weft threads appear on the back side of the fabric”. Therefore, dungarees are characterised by the appearance of many white yarns on the front side of the dungaree instead of coloured yarns.” It is sometimes said that.(I could find no reason why.)
Some sources stated that when the weft yarn is indigo-dyed yarn, it is called jean.
1946 Dan River’s dictionary of textile terms.
DUNGAREE – Work overall fabric of coarse cotton denim , usually blue . Originally used for sailors ‘ work clothes .
Hindi : दुंगरी / coarse kind of cloth
TRANSACTIONS OF THE BOMBAY GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, FROM* MAY 1844 TO DECEMBER 1846.
They make a coarse dungaree cloth here,called gujjeeah, thirty-six to forty cubits long, costing from two and a half to three rupees per piece.(*1cubit≒44.4cm)
This is one of the largest towns in Guzerat ; population estimated at between forty and fifty thousand inhabitants. It carries on a considerable trade with Malwa and the interior, importing grain, drugs, gums, and dye stuffs, and exporting in return cotton, coarse dungarees, chintzes, tobacco, coarse sugar or jagree, &c. The lands here are as sessed at a certain rate per beega, but according to the crop raised thereon, from five to ten, and as high as Rupees seventeen, per beega ; tobacco five at seven, sugar-cane ten, and so on — the most valuable crops generally paying the highest rates.
TRANSACTIONS OF THE BOMBAY GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, FROM* MAY 1844 TO DECEMBER 1846.
“Dungarees” typically refer to a style of garment that is characterized by a bib and brace design. They are a type of one-piece clothing with attached or adjustable shoulder straps and a bib-shaped front that covers the chest. “Dungarees” are often made from durable fabrics such as denim or dungaree fabric, which is a coarse and thick calico cloth. “Dungarees” are known for their practicality and versatility. They are commonly worn for work or outdoor activities due to their durability and ability to provide ample coverage and protection. “Dungarees” are often associated with functionality and are popular among laborers, farmers, mechanics, and individuals engaged in manual work. “Dungarees” have also gained popularity as a casual fashion trend. They are worn by people of all ages and genders as a comfortable and stylish choice. Dungarees can be found in various designs, colors, and fabrics, catering to different fashion preferences and style statements.
“Oh, My Darling Clementine,” also known as “Clementine,” is a beloved traditional American Western folk ballad written in trochaic meter. The song is commonly attributed to Percy Montross (or Montrose) and was first published in 1884, although some credit is also given to Barker Bradford. Recognized for its enduring popularity and cultural significance, “Clementine” has been honored by the Western Writers of America, who selected it as one of the Top 100 Western songs of all time. Its timeless appeal and memorable melody have made it a cherished part of Western music heritage.
The phrase “Oh, My Darling Clementine” refers to a traditional American folk ballad, as mentioned earlier. The song tells the story of a miner’s daughter named Clementine who meets a tragic fate while crossing a river. It is often associated with the California Gold Rush era in the mid-19th century, as miners would sing this song during their journeys and around campfires.
The Discovery of Chemical Indigo (1882-1883)
In 1860, Baeyer achieved his habilitation in Berlin and embarked on a teaching position for organic chemistry at the Gewerbein-stitut. Six years later, the University of Berlin, upon the recommendation of A.W. Hofmann, bestowed upon him a senior lectureship, albeit without any remuneration. It was during this period that Baeyer commenced his research on indigo, leading to significant breakthroughs such as the discovery of indole and the partial synthesis of indigotin. Concurrently, Baeyer formulated his theory on the assimilation of carbon dioxide in formaldehyde. Subsequently, following the passing of Justus von Liebig, Baeyer assumed the prestigious chair at the University of Munich, granting him the opportunity to pursue the synthesis of indigo. His remarkable achievements in this field earned him the distinguished Davy Medal from the Royal Society of London in 1881.
The first synthesis of indigo was reported by Adolf von Baeyer in 1882 and its chemical structure was elucidated one year later. In 1883, Baeyer successfully unraveled the intricate structure of indigo. However, despite patenting the synthesis method, it proved to be economically unviable due to exorbitant manufacturing costs compared to the natural dye. Consequently, this particular synthesis route had to be abandoned. Later on, in collaboration with Viggo Beutner Drewsen, Baeyer explored an indigo synthesis method using nitrobenzaldehyde, although its industrial significance remained limited. It wasn’t until 1900 when Karl Heumann developed an economical synthesis method for indigo, marking a significant milestone in the field.(Shortly after, a practical manufacturing process was developed and since 1897 natural indigo has almost been replaced by the synthetic molecule, which is probably the most produced dye in the world)