laboratory
Uniqlo Is The World's Largest Producer Of Button-Down Shirts.
ナポリの歴史は古く、中世までさかのぼります。古くから高級織物や衣料品の産地として知られ、現在でも多くの職人技が受け継がれています。ナポリのシャツメーカーは、細部にまでこだわり、品質へのこだわりを持つことで知られています。コットン、シルク、リネンなど、最高級の素材のみを使用し、完璧なフィット感を実現するために伝統的なハンドステッチ技術を採用することも多い。
March – 2023 15 MINS READ
Why do Japanese people like button-down shirts? They wear button-downs in the suit style they put on to work, and they also wear button-downs in casual occasions. TV presenters and commentators also wear button-down shirts with their suits. It is a truly strange culture.Button-down shirts originally originated as sports shirts. It should not be in the culture of formal wear. However, I think that is happening because Japanese editors and fashion people introduced wrong information about American culture in the 60s and 70s. (I should add that there was not much information at that time).
However, times are changing and it is a fact that the world is becoming more and more casual. That’s why the button-down shirt is currently the best shirt for you. (My hope is that you guys will preferably match it with a jacket instead of a suit. That way your style is more beautiful.) And that shirt is UNIQLO’s best-selling shirt… I mean the best-selling shirt in the world.
AMETORA
Before we talk about UNIQLO clothes, we must first talk about the ‘Ametora’, which has had a particularly significant impact on the history of Japanese fashion.
“Ametora” is a portmanteau of the words “American” and “traditional” in Japanese, and refers to a fashion movement in Japan that emerged in the 1950s-1960s , and the secound boom is 1980s – 1990s. This movement was characterized by a fascination with American Ivy League fashion and traditional American workwear, such as denim jeans, leather jackets, and sneakers. Japanese designers and fashion enthusiasts were drawn to the quality and authenticity of American-made clothing, and sought to incorporate these elements into their own style.The trend was influenced by the popularity of American films and music in Japan at the time, and was further popularized by magazines like “Popeye” and “Men’s Non-No” that featured style guides and profiles of prominent figures in the ametora scene.
One of the key figures in the development of ametora was Kensuke Ishizu, the founder of the Japanese clothing brand VAN. Ishizu was heavily influenced by Ivy League style, and sought to adapt it to Japanese tastes and sensibilities. He pioneered the concept of “Ivy League Style for Japanese Men,” which became a popular marketing slogan in Japan.Another important figure in the ametora movement was Take Ivy, a book of photographs by Teruyoshi Hayashida that was published in Japan in 1965. The book depicted American college students wearing Ivy League clothing, and became a cult classic in Japan. It was reissued in the United States in 2010, and helped to spark a renewed interest in Ivy League style and ametora.Some of the key elements of ametora style include slim-fitting trousers, “button-down shirts”, tweed jackets, loafers, and other classic Ivy League staples. However, the style is not limited to preppy clothing, and often incorporates elements of workwear, military clothing, and streetwear.
Ametora is not just a fashion trend, but also a cultural phenomenon that reflects Japan’s complex relationship with the United States. The trend can be seen as a form of cultural appropriation, as Japanese designers and fashion enthusiasts have taken elements of American style and adapted them to their own tastes and needs. However, it can also be seen as a form of cultural exchange and cross-pollination, as Japanese designers have introduced new ideas and innovations to American fashion.
This period of rapid economic growth after World War II continued to increase the Japanese population, which coincided with the IVY fashion movement and may have been the reason why the Japanese love button-down shirts more than any other people in the world. Of course, Americans love button-downs too.
BROOKS BROTHERS
Tells the story of how John E. Brooks, the president of Brooks Brothers and the grandson of the founder, discovered the idea for the button-down collar while watching a polo match in England in 1896. He noticed that the players’ collars were button down to prevent them from flapping in the wind, and he brought the idea back to Brooks Brothers. The tailors at the company perfected the design, and in 1900, the button-down collar was introduced to America. The unique design immediately became popular, as it was softer and more comfortable than the rigid detachable collars of the previous century. It marked a departure from stuffy styles and sparked a fashion rebellion. Brooks Brothers recognized the appeal of the collar and marketed a version in white oxford cloth, which redefined men’s shirts and became a signature staple of American fashion in the twentieth century. It was worn by movie stars, artists, and politicians and became as iconic as denim jeans and aviator sunglasses.
John E brooks story in 1896 is probably true, but unfortunately this story is very wrong. Button-down collars were a common specification in British sports of the time (football, polo, cricket, etc.) for fast-moving sports and many photographs survive, so it is not certain that the button-down was developed for the sport of polo.But if Brooks Brothers had not created the button-down shirt, it would never have spread around the world. That’s how influential the post-war USA was in the world. Along with Coke, Levi’s and others.
And of course to Japan.
Brooks Brothers | Made in America: North Carolina (Unfortunately, Brooks is not the owner of this factory. However, American products are still made in this factory.)
What’s great about UNIQLO’s The Oxford cloth button-down shirt?
How many OCBD shirts do you have? For some it might be Brooks Brothers or Polo Ralph Lauren. Or it could be the Individuated Shirts or Gitman that OEM made them. It could be a beautiful Italian shirt like Barba or Luigi Borrelli. There is not much made in the UK. However, the best-selling brand in the world is clearly Uniqlo. They are now moving their factories to Vietnam, but before that they were making them everywhere – in China and Cambodia. This is something even global brands like H&M, GAP and LEVI’S can’t compete with. Why are people so drawn to UNIQLO OCBD shirts? Here we try to find out the secret.
Product overview, from the UNIQLO website.(FEB.2023)
■ The fabric is made from a special combed yarn, which is fine and supple with a high quality, and is comfortable to wear with firm firmness and elasticity.
■ The shirt has a relaxed, regular fit, created from scratch using a pattern based on thorough research into classic oxford shirts.
■ The shirt has a relaxed, regular fit.
■ The button-down collar has a clean S-shape roll.
■ The traditional hem gusset and hanger loops on the back have been faithfully retained.
■ The sewing from the armpits to the sleeves is done with a folded-down sewing machine that feels good against the skin, as seen in the tailoring of high-quality shirts.
■ The buttons are made of resin, which is easy to open and close, has a dull sheen and a high quality feel.
■ The buttons are made of a special resin, which is easy to open and close and has a dull sheen.
■ It can be worn in just the right size with a shirt inside, sized up for an oversized look, worn over a T-shirt, or as an inner layer for a jacket, knitwear or sweatshirt.
TEXTILE
Oxford fabric is a type of cotton weave fabric that is popular for its durability and versatility. It is named after the famous English university, Oxford, where it was first produced. The fabric’s history dates back to the 19th century when it was first produced in Scotland for traditional Celtic dress, including kilts and sporrans. The popularity of Oxford fabric began to grow in the 20th century, especially in England, where it was used for men’s dress shirts. Today, it is still popular for dress shirts but is also used for a variety of other applications, including bags, backpacks, upholstery, and home decor.
One of the main reasons Oxford fabric is so great is because of its unique texture. It is made using a basketweave pattern, which creates a distinctive checkerboard-like appearance. The weave also gives the fabric a slightly heavier weight and thicker feel compared to other cotton fabrics, making it more durable and resistant to wear and tear. In addition to its durability, Oxford fabric is also popular because it is easy to care for. It can be machine-washed and dried, and it does not require ironing after washing. This makes it a practical choice for everyday wear and use.
Another reason Oxford fabric is so popular is because of the range of colors and patterns it comes in. From classic solids to bold stripes and plaids, Oxford fabric can be found in a variety of styles that can be easily dressed up or down. Overall, Oxford fabric’s durability, ease of care, and range of styles make it a popular choice for a variety of applications, from clothing to home decor.
In this way, though, it is not easy to get close to the old Brooks Brothers fabric (Dan-River Made in USA).
OXFORD FABRIC
Oxford fabric is a type of cotton fabric that is widely used in dress shirts, casual shirts, and other clothing items. It is characterized by its unique basketweave texture, which is achieved by weaving multiple yarns in a crisscross pattern. The fabric is named after the famous university city of Oxford, England, where it was first used in the 19th century.The history of Oxford fabric can be traced back to the 19th century, when it was first produced in Scotland for use in men’s shirts. The fabric was originally made using a combination of colored and white yarns, which created a distinctive textured appearance. The fabric’s popularity grew rapidly, and by the mid-19th century, it was being produced in several mills in the UK.In the late 1800s, Oxford fabric gained popularity in the United States, where it was used to make dress shirts for men. The fabric’s durability, breathability, and versatility made it a popular choice among American consumers, and it quickly became a staple in men’s fashion.
Combed yarn
“Combed yarn” is a type of yarn that is made from combed fibers, typically of cotton or wool. The combing process involves aligning and straightening the fibers, removing any short fibers, and creating a smooth and uniform strand. This process results in a stronger, smoother, and more lustrous yarn compared to carded yarn, which is made by simply separating the fibers without the additional step of combing. “Combed yarn” is generally considered to be of higher quality than “Carded yarn” because the removal of short fibers and impurities results in a more consistent yarn that is less prone to pilling, shedding, and breaking. “Combed yarn” is also more expensive to produce than carded yarn due to the extra step of combing, but the improved quality and durability make it a preferred choice for many applications, including high-end clothing, fine linens, and luxury textiles. In summary, combed yarn is a high-quality yarn that is produced through a combing process that results in a stronger, smoother, and more consistent yarn compared to carded yarn. While it is more expensive to produce, its superior quality and durability make it a popular choice for high-end applications.
collar
There is no doubt that they imitated the Brooks Brothers shirt pattern when UNIQLO was still in its infancy. Their aim was to create the “AMETORA” that the Japanese longed for, for which the BB oxford polo collar shirt was indispensable. Nowadays, the shirt pattern has a little more originality, which is evident in the shape of the collar.
The roll is not as tight as it used to be.I don’t consider the Brooks Brothers button-down to be historically original, so I welcome this unique evolution. Their shirts are classic, but they are evolving every day. For me, it is definitely a product of high standard and unparalleled cost-performance.
But I’m concerned about the recent trend for smaller collars.
collar band
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
stitch
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
BUTTON and BUTTONHOLE
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
Sewing Pattern
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
SLEEVE
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
CUFF & sleeve placket
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
shirt yoke
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
HEM
According to their explanation, ‘The collar has a gentle S-shaped line from the collar to the tip of the sword, preventing the collar from protruding from the lapel area of the jacket. The collar is designed to maintain its beautiful shape even when no tie is worn. It has a strong and thick core, which helps keep the collar looking crisp and gives a beautiful silhouette around the neck.’ Turnbull & Asser claims that this collar type was designed by them in the 1930s when they started making readymade shirts and has remained the basis of their range ever since. Although many Japanese fashion magazines describe it as such, it’s difficult to determine whether T&A is the original source, as fashion trends change over time.T&A’s 1920s WW1 advertising illustrations do feature a curved collar shape. However, it is also clear that other companies, like famous Arrow Shirt in usa , sold similar collar styles in usa 1910-20s.
gadget(hemming gadget)
This is one of those details that UNIQLO didn’t have in the past -GADGET(HEMMING GADGET) is a detail that was necessary for shirts that needed reinforcement up to around the 50s. Whether this is necessary with modern sewing technology is disputed (they didn’t use the gadget detail ), but we can feel the sense “attention to detail” in the design. However, the sewing on the reverse side is a little crude. I feel that this is not meant to be a reinforcement. We understand that it is important to look good, but it is debatable whether it is necessary for UNIQLO.
For example, Vintage ARROW shirt Made in USA, have a reinforcement of almost the same construction. But they are sewing is much careful.I do not think this detail is necessary.
– References –
一勝九敗
柳井 正
Brooks Brothers, Centenary, 1818-1918
Brooks Brothers
Brooks Brothers: 200 Years of American Style
Kate Betts
