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The first Lacoste ad 

ADAM : JAN / 15 / 1934

The Lacoste polo shirt was introduced in 1933 by André Gillier and René Lacoste. This advertorial feature in Adam was one of the earliest features devoted to it. From the article, it is quite clear that Lacoste was by no means the originator of the polo shirt, and it also shows that the now-common claim that the “L.12.12” existed from the very beginning as a fully developed, original design is incorrect.
THE SPORT SHIRT

1934 will mark the crowning point of the reign of the truly sporting short-sleeved shirt.
Indeed, Établissements André Gillier has just secured the collaboration and patronage of the famous creator of the short-sleeved shirt, Mr. René Lacoste.With his collaboration, Mr. André Gillier has just perfected the only sport shirt entitled to bear the name “Chemise Lacoste.” We present two models here, at the left and right of the photograph above.
Among its other advantages, the shirt has been made longer in order to overcome the problem of a shirt coming out of the trousers, so that the “Lacoste” shirt remains in place even during the most vigorous movements.
Its ribbed-edge collar, specially designed, holds its shape perfectly and follows the contours of the neck exactly.
Unlike ordinary shirt collars, it no longer loses its shape and gives these shirts a distinctly sporting appearance.

“LACOSTE” “Lacoste,” grey wool. 
JIL Polo shirt, horizontal stripes.
“LACOSTE” “Lacoste,” white wool.

Guaranteed to be absolutely shrinkproof, these shirts, thanks to advances in dyeing, can also be guaranteed colourfast even in the brightest shades.
The symbolic “alligator” guarantees the origin of the genuine “Lacoste” shirt, which is made in all kinds of fabrics, from Sakel Peigné to matte silk, as well as linen and wool of the very finest quality.

Needless to say, Établissements André Gillier remains faithful to its “Jil” production, and this year its research into materials has enabled it to place on the market for the first time articles in knitted linen, very cool against the skin, as well as a finely striped matte silk which perfectly imitates shirting fabric.
All these creations complement the classic models that have established the worldwide reputation of this house.

JIL Polo shirt, honeycomb knit. / Polo shirt, angora / ANDRÉ GILLIER Polo shirt, artificial silk, fine stripes.

If the summer of 1934 is blessed with weather as wonderfully fine as that of 1933, there can be no doubt that sporting life and outdoor life will bring about an increase in sales of polo shirts. Caught by surprise by the intense demand of last year, manufacturers and retailers missed many sales. This year manufacturers have made a considerable effort to vary the presentation of the standard model that enjoyed unprecedented popularity. The retailer will find here, and in our forthcoming issues, all the new developments in the 1934 collections. From his sales experience in 1933, he will easily be able to select the models suited to his clientele and to the requirements of his region.

VALISÈRE
Short sleeves, collar stand. Knitted structure forming fine white stripes.
Long sleeves, collar stand. Run-resistant artificial silk, fine coloured stripes.

Shirt and knitwear manufacturers, each in his own speciality, have competed in ingenuity to satisfy the demand for comfort and the widely differing tastes of customers.
There is a variety of knitted structures, some close-knit and others openwork (for warmth or ventilation); differences in thickness and in design; a variety of materials—cotton, wool, artificial silk, linen and natural silk; an extremely wide range of colours, both plain and patterned—stripes, houndstooth, small motifs, honeycomb patterns, etc.
There is also experimentation in cut: short or long shirts, short plackets or fully front-opening shirts, straight or raglan sleeves, straight or crossover fastenings, flat collars or collars with stands—all of which provide salesmen with arguments for satisfying even the smallest wishes of their customers.

All these models have deliberately been photographed on real, “flesh-and-blood” people. We wished to avoid the banality of a staged and retouched presentation, preferring instead to show the natural character of shirts designed for movement, the outdoors and relaxed elegance.
The shorts, flannel trousers, golf breeches, canvas knickerbockers and beach trousers accompanying the polo shirts in our photographs were kindly supplied by Maison Mavest of Soufflenheim.
We have completed the outfits with belts and ties. While belts are the natural complement to a simple sporting outfit, ties, by contrast, are too often neglected by customers.
We are nevertheless convinced that a tie specially designed to suit the particular fabric of the polo shirt, and presented by the retailer at the same time as the shirt, would enjoy considerable sales success.
Proof of this is supplied by Maison Hamberger, whose “Estivales” collection sold out rapidly in 1933.

J. HAYEM ET Cie
Short-sleeved shirt, raglan cut forming a shoulder band. Collar stand. Run-resistant artificial silk. Very fine stripes.
ETABL. CESGREZ
Short sleeves. Three-button placket. Run-resistant fabric, fine stripes.
J. HAYEM ET Cie
Same raglan model as the one on the left; run-resistant artificial silk with fairly broad stripes.

We also find supporting evidence in the interview kindly granted to us by Mr. Pierre Apfel, vice-president of the Paris Trade Association of Manufacturers of Ties, Scarves and Mufflers.

Here is his reply:
“Since you ask me for my opinion on wearing the shirt known as the Lacoste shirt and on its effect on tie sales, here is my view:
Yes, I am in favour of this shirt, whose advantages scarcely need to be listed any longer, especially during the warm season. To oppose this fashion and try, in the heat of summer, to return to starched shirts, high stiff collars and top hats would be a futile advertising effort and sheer nonsense. 
But what must be done is to prevent dress from lapsing into sloppiness. Fashion and good taste go hand in hand. Provided the eye is not offended, it becomes accustomed to novelty. Look at women’s fashion, which changes almost every season, and let us admit that, although at the launch of a new trend we may smile at it, we soon come to recognize that it is ‘chic’—not out of snobbery, but because of taste, harmony, and the way of wearing clothes, the secret of which French women possess.

The same is true of men’s fashion; a short-sleeved shirt…”

VENDOSPORT
Plain run-resistant fabric, three-button placket, shirt collar.
Openwork knitted structure forming stripes, shirt collar.
L. FÉNISSE ET Cie
Run-resistant fabric, very fine stripes. Shirt collar.

…well cut, with a collar that falls properly, and in a colour harmonized with its surroundings, will bear no resemblance at all to, for example, the sleeveless shirt of a dock worker. 
Yes, a short-sleeved shirt—but fine fabric and good workmanship.
And proper dress… on the beach, at the wheel… the collar open… but at a meal, at a stop on the journey… quickly close the collar. Take your tie from your pocket… tie a knot, put on a jacket, and there you are, properly dressed.

You ask me: Is a special shape of tie, a special fabric, or a special type required to wear with this shirt?

No… simply a soft, lightweight fabric, well padded if the fashion is for a fuller knot, and good taste in the choice of colours and patterns. A fine crêpe de Chine with satin stripes, for example, would be perfect. But tie manufacturers will know how to create, I am sure, very attractive and tasteful ranges.
I believe it has been a mistake to recommend heavy fabrics—wool or heavy silk—and even lined ties to wear with these shirts. They are light; do not weigh them down: a light tie, a light touch.
With some effort by the retailer in presentation—ties specially selected for these shirts—and by his employees in selling them, I am convinced that sales of the ‘tie’, that reflection of the masculine soul, will increase this summer.

B. V. R.
Manches courtes, gorge deux boutons, grosses mailles
filet.PHOTOS SCAIONI
Gorge deux boutons, tissu chiné, couleurs diverses.

BLAIS-MOUSSERON-VILLEMINOT ET RONDEAU
Indémaillable, coloris unis.

POLO SHIRTS “SHIRTMAKER” STYLE

Some customers wish to remain faithful to the fabrics normally used for their town shirts. For this purpose, the firms Rousseau and Gravereaux offer sport shirts in zephyr, Oxford, figured artificial silk, printed fabrics, etc.

ÉTABL. A. ROUSSEAU
Sport shirt in figured artificial silk, guaranteed colourfast and comfortable to wear. Short sleeves with shoulder pieces, fashionable pointed collar with collar band, reversible placket opening at the front. 

PHOTOS SCAIONI
Fine zephyr shirt, guaranteed colourfast, with a stand collar, long shirt-tail, open front, and short sleeves. This is the summer shirt par excellence for town, office, and sport.

NOVELTEX
Novelsport short-sleeved shirt, made of a special highly hygienic fabric, open at the front, without shoulder pieces, with an elegant pointed collar and collar band allowing a necktie to be worn, cut very open at the neck, with bold decorative stripes.

POLO SHIRTS “SHIRTMAKER” STYLE
In some models, the cut remains that of the conventional shirt with a stand collar, buttoned front, and long shirt-tail, differing from it almost only in the short sleeves and the various forms of convertible collars. 

Sport shirt, shirt-style collar, without a placket, open at the front. Diagonal print.
Same shape. Highly porous fabric with strongly defined graduated chevrons in bright colours.

R. GRAVEREAUX
Same shape. Large houndstooth pattern in strongly contrasting shades.

Conclusion — AUG. 2026

As this full-page advertisement and accompanying feature in Adam from 1934 clearly show, the polo shirt had already become quite widespread by the 1930s.
There is no doubt that René Lacoste was one of the pioneers in wearing this type of shirt in competitive tennis. At the same time, however, André Gillier’s JIL brand was also of great importance in the early development of the garment.
Above all, I want to state this emphatically: the L.12.12, which has since been turned into a central part of the Lacoste brand narrative, did not yet exist in that form at this point. What we actually see at the outset is something quite different — a three-button shirt made of wool, and not even knitted in piqué.

In other words, the starting point was fundamentally different from the standardized L.12.12 story that is so often presented today.

Additional note

I came across the following claim in one of Japan’s largest and most influential business newspapers:

“In 1927, polo players were only wearing T-shirt-like, collarless shirts, and I [René Lacoste] added a collar to create what became the modern polo shirt.” It is extremely frustrating to see a journalist at such a major Japanese financial newspaper repeat and perpetuate a claim like this as historical fact.

There is ample historical evidence showing that collared shirts were already being worn by polo players before 1927. A newspaper of this stature should not simply reproduce a brand’s retrospective account without properly examining the historical record.

If you are going to write about the history of something, please do the research properly before publishing it. This is not a matter of interpretation; it is a matter of checking the historical evidence.

Invented by the Founder of Lacoste
“This year marks the 50th anniversary of the sale of polo shirts in Japan,” says Yumi Kawashima of the marketing department at Fabrica, the Tokyo-based company that manufactures and sells products in Japan for the French casualwear brand Lacoste, famous for its crocodile logo.
Today, the term “polo shirt” generally refers to a short-sleeved shirt made of jersey fabric, with a collar and two or three buttons at the neck. According to Kawashima, the polo shirt in its present, widely recognized form was first invented in the world in 1927 by René Lacoste, the founder of Lacoste and a celebrated tennis player.

At the time, tennis players competed in loose-fitting, long-sleeved, collared shirts resembling dress shirts. Lacoste, wondering whether there might be a shirt that would allow players greater freedom of movement, turned his attention to the jersey shirts worn by polo players, which were also highly absorbent. He conceived the idea of adapting this type of shirt for tennis.

Adding a Collar to the Polo Player’s Shirt
Lacoste himself discussed the origins of the shirt in an interview during his lifetime. According to his account, polo players at the time wore round-necked shirts resembling T-shirts, and he came up with the idea of adding a collar to make the garment more suitable for tennis. At first, he had the shirt made for his own use while playing matches under the blazing sun. It attracted attention, however, and he later established a manufacturing company with a friend. In 1933, the shirt was introduced to the general public.

The product was originally called the “Chemise Lacoste” (“Lacoste Shirt”), and its first advertising slogan read: “For tennis, golf, and marine sports.” Curiously, there was no mention whatsoever of polo. Even today, polo shirts are sometimes referred to as “tennis shirts” or “golf shirts.” But why, then, did they come to be known as “polo shirts” in the first place? Kawashima says that “when Lacoste began selling them in Japan 50 years ago, they were already being called polo shirts.” To investigate further, we consulted a specialist reference work: Esquire’s Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men’s Fashions, published in the United States in 1973 and devoted to the history of twentieth-century menswear. According to the book, shirts corresponding to today’s polo shirt were already being worn by tennis players in Britain and the United States by 1928, and were being sold by many American retailers. The term “polo shirt” is said to have begun spreading around this period.

There has long been a theory that polo players themselves had originally worn similar shirts. Lacoste’s own comments, however, suggest another possible interpretation.
The modern polo shirt may initially have spread through its popularity among tennis players. Later, when polo players themselves began wearing the same style, polo effectively appropriated the garment from tennis, and the name “polo shirt” came to prevail.

It is plainly evident from the photographic record that this style was already widely worn by many players, including Olympic polo teams, throughout the 1920s. Writing an article based on nothing more than a journalist’s own speculation, while ignoring such readily available historical evidence, is simply unacceptable. It is a deeply embarrassing failure of basic journalistic standards.

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